Blackwork T-shirt question - Page 3

Needlework Board - Any form of decorative stitching done by hand. 

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Blackwork T-shirt question Keith Barber 05-19-2008
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Posted by Dianne Lewandowski on May 20, 2008, 3:44 pm
I have purchased any number of knit sweaters that have absolutely gobs
of embroidery, beading, sequins, and not one has stabilizing. Perhaps
they use a washable stablizers, but I doubt it. Otherwise these sweater
would have to go through too much of a process. These are hand
embroidered with probably laborers who need whatever sum they can get
for their work. It often doesn't last. The thread ends aren't very
well anchored.

The wash-away waste canvas sounds perfect for knits, and I wouldn't
think a backing would be necessary. Remember: a knit is suppose to
give. A stabilizer that doesn't wash out isn't going to "give". You
need to embroider a little more loosely than you would otherwise embroider.

Dianne

ellice wrote:
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--
Embroidery Discussions at http://www.heritageshoppe.com/smf

Posted by ellice on May 21, 2008, 7:18 am

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Oh, I totally understand with respect to embroidery on sweaters. And since
you knit, no doubt have done plenty of embroidery or embellishment on
sweaters. But, in thinking about embroidering on a tee-shirt, which I'd
expect to be going through the laundry, that's a different issue, or variant
in my mind. I have some little cotton knit shirts which have hand
embroidery around the neck line - they're a step up from t-shirts - and
consequtnetly, require gentle washing, line or flat drying. And they don't
last all that long. OTOH, the workshirt I embroidered over 30 years ago,
has held up just fine - but that was embroidery on chambray/light denim and
has seen plenty of washing machines (OTOH, I think I can fit it on one arm,
not all of me).

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True. Since the original question was about doing blackwork, which isn't as
free from in actual stitch design as say a floral, that's why it seems to me
that stabilizing would be a good idea. OR the waste canvas. I've seen many
knit shirts with sections embroidered, with permanent stabilizing, that wash
and look just fine - not weird with the embroidered section. But, those are
essentially areas say 4' x 6" . A bunch of my EMS uniform stuff, and shirts
that DH gets for his 6 Sigma stuff - they're knit polos (like golf shirts)
with some cutsom embroidery - which has been done by machine, with
stabilizer behind. They go thru the laundry, and look fine - the rest of
the shirt stretches/ breaths, but the embroidered section doesn't stretch
quite the same. But, it doesn't look weird or puekered around the edges.
Of course, it 's much heavier stabilizer than I would use at home.

Ellice

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Posted by Tia Mary on May 21, 2008, 1:35 am
Dianne Lewandowski wrote:
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The original reference was to doing a blackwork design on something
like a t-shirt. To me, this means a design that is very geometric and
trying to do something like this on a t-shirt "in hand", especially
without some sort of stabilizer, seems to be asking for trouble because
most t-shirts don't really have a lot of body. While someone who is
experienced in stitching geometric designs on knits could likely to do
it without use of a stabilizer, it just makes more sense to MOI to use
one. The original post didn't sound as if it was from someone who had
much experience in this type of stitching.
Stitching on something like a sweater, even a light weight one, is a
whole world different than stitching on a t-shirt because sweaters are
knit with much heavier fibers. In addition, the commercially made
sweaters I have seen with embroidery have "general" type embroidery
designs, not any sort of counted or predominately geometric designs.
Also, for those who have never done any stitching on garments of any
sort, regular counted designs -- those meant for even weave fabrics --
don't look quite right on sweater knits. Likely this is why most of the
designs you see embroidered on sweaters are not cross stitch or any
other sort of geometric design. You see lots of what I term "surface"
or "general" embroidery designs -- more free form type designs like
florals, silk ribbon embroidery and such. Not to say that's the only
type of design you see but they obviously aren't anything counted.
IIRC, designs made specifically for stitching on sweater knits are
called duplicate stitch designs.
Anywhooo, as I said, I always use a stabilizer when working on
t-shirts or sweatshirts because I put them in a hoop and a woven backing
fabric is absolutely necessary. I will add that once the stitching is
done, I cut away ALL of the stabilizing fabric that is not covered by
stitching so that there is none of the backing fabric left uncovered by
stitching. IMNSHO, even if you didn't trim away unstitched parts of the
backing fabric, it wouldn't make the garment stiff but it would sure
make it bulky and uncomfortable to wear!
Been a very long time since we had a thread about this topic. Glad
to see we have someone interested enough to ask questions :-). CiaoMeow
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Angels can't show their wings on earth but nothing was ever said about
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Posted by on May 21, 2008, 1:42 am
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Maybe that is why so many Adorning of T shirts,
use all kinds of Glue and color ,,,
mirjam

Posted by ellice on May 20, 2008, 11:46 am

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Hey Mary, thanks for the agreement about stabilizing. Honestly, when I do
finishing work on counted thread pieces as well, I always put a backing
fabric - generally a muslin or simiilar, to the piece before continuing with
any of the other sewing (pillow or wall-hanging making). I want to be sure
that much as in framing, the piece itself is squared and won't stretch out.

Ellice


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