Or Nue or Italian Couching

Posted by on September 6, 2005, 10:24 am

Hi Folks --

I'm working on a project which I thought was Or Nue or a variation
thereof with modern materials. But I have been told that it might be
Italian Couching.

Can anyone explain the difference?

Keep Stitching,
Janet
janetp@napanet.net
http://www.napaneedlepoint.com

Posted by Jeanine3 on September 7, 2005, 1:50 am

Pauline Brown's Encyclopedia of Embroidery Techniques describes Or Nué
as "Italian *Shading*". Every other text I have always uses the word
*shading* not couching, though Or Nué is in fact, couching.
That said... Underside couching is characteristic of ancient Sicilian
and Byzantine embroideries and the Florentines were well known for it in
the early middle ages, so it is possible to be called "Italian
couching". Something to note here is that the Opus Anglicanum period
(1250-1350) in England was largely fine Underside Couching work and
since this was later in history than the Italians, it seems a little odd
to be calling it Italian Couching, but it is possible.
While Or Nué is couched silk on top of the gold threads and ground
fabric, Underside Couching is when the couched stitches (usually linen
thread) actually pull the gold through the ground fabric.

A google search brings up Sandy Rodgers of the EGA (I think, either that
or ANG) http://www.sandyrodgers.com/Classes/CouchingNotebook.htm
She lists Or Nué and Italian Couching as separate techniques that you
would learn if you took her class. Maybe a quick email to her might
clear it up for you. Please post here if you learn the difference, I'd
be interested in what you find out.

I also found a reference to an Italian Couching illustration from Mary
Gostelow's Embroidery Book, pg 71, on a SCA website.
http://www.speakeasy.org/~mefletcher/Embroidering%20Bayeux%20Tapestry.html
You should be able to find that book in your local library. If I get the
chance I'll look at the copy at my library the next time I'm there which
should be soon as I've reserved another book which should be in any day.

Good luck and post what you find out!
Jeanine in Canada

janetp@napanet.net wrote:
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