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Posted by Patti on October 19, 2009, 3:12 am
One thing that hasn't yet been said is: although this is simply a
straight up and down quilting pattern, where did you start sewing? If
you started at one edge and proceeded across, that might have been less
successful than the traditional way of starting in the centre and moving
to one side, then going back to the centre and moving out to the other
side (still starting at a different edge each time).
show/hide quoted text
I bought a set of quilt clamps - used them just once >g< .... It is
much easier without anything.
Oh, and what kind of needle are you using? Was it a new one? The type
of needle makes a lot of difference to me (I think it is an individual
thing). My quilting is my weakest aspect, so I need all the help I can
get!
One thing I can tell you with absolute certainty: it *does* get better!
.
show/hide quoted text
>I quilted a bunch of straight lines with a walking foot for the first time
>today, and found it quite . . . erm . . . challenging. I am pretty sure
>that the solution to most of my problems is practice, practice, practice,
>but I thought I'd make a few notes here and see if anybody has any words of
>wisdom.
>1. Setting the machine's stitch length was a joke. The stitch length was
>determined more by how much the quilt package was dragging for one reason or
>another -- snagging on the bicycle clips as they traveled on, under, around
>the machine, snagging on an accordian-fold in the package in my lap, etc.
>This is related to . . .
>2. I hate bicycle clips. They scrape across the finish of my SM cabinet
>(admittedly a beat-up finish already, but still), they snag, they fall off
>on the floor, etc. I'm getting better with this. Would it help to wrap the
>clips with cheesecloth?
>3. No. 1 is also probably related to the fact that my SM and/or walking
>foot continually demanded changes in the upper thread tension. I was using
>different color threads on top and bottom, and occasionally the machine
>would apparently just change its mind about whether it would tighten bobbin
>threads up to the top or top threads to the bottom. I truly could not make
>heads or tails of what the thread tension would do next. The SM was well
>cleaned and lubricated. It seemed as if the machine just got tired and
>started tightening up one way or the other.
>4. Puckers on the back. I think this was due purely to the fact that I did
>a lousy job of spray-basting. The walking foot was feeding fine and doing
>what it was supposed to do; I just had glued some puckers into the back. I
>know what I'll do differently the next time I spray-baste.
>That said, I got some good practice and the quilt looks pretty decent on
>top, so far. After the thread yesterday when I asked about how far apart my
>straight-line quilting should be, I decided that the narrow lines I wanted
>would make the quilt narrower than I wanted. So I decided to go back to a
>triple-figure eight, Amish quilting pattern that had attracted me earlier.
>I'll quilt that tomorrow with my new, see-through darning foot. Based on
>past experience with a mini-quilt, I think I may be better at quilting such
>a pattern than I am at quilting a straight line! Meanders and stippling
>never attracted me very much before, but I find I'm having good luck with it
>on a practice scrap, so that may be in my future, too.
>ep
--
Best Regards
pat on the hill
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Posted by Edna Pearl on October 19, 2009, 2:52 pm
show/hide quoted text
> One thing that hasn't yet been said is: although this is simply a
> straight up and down quilting pattern, where did you start sewing? If you
> started at one edge and proceeded across, that might have been less
> successful than the traditional way of starting in the centre and moving
> to one side, then going back to the centre and moving out to the other
> side (still starting at a different edge each time).
I read that this approach results in a mess -- I think it was a past edition
of Hargrave's "Machine Heirloom Quilting" that said this. (But she also
recommended clips, so this edition obviously was not the last word.) Most
books I've read explain to start at the top of the length in the middle of
the width and proceed right, alternating direction to start from the top or
the bottom. Then go back to the middle of the width and start at the bottom
of the length.
And for grids, I've read you're supposed to start at the corners.
I'd welcome any thoughts on this issue.
show/hide quoted text
> I bought a set of quilt clamps - used them just once >g< .... It is much
> easier without anything.
After reading so many experienced quilters say the same thing, and after my
experience, I'm SOLD!
show/hide quoted text
> Oh, and what kind of needle are you using? Was it a new one? The type of
> needle makes a lot of difference to me (I think it is an individual
> thing). My quilting is my weakest aspect, so I need all the help I can
> get!
I was using a Schmetz 75/11 which I'd used just once previously on a
mini-quilt with good success.
ep
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Posted by Leslie& The Furbabies in MO. on October 19, 2009, 4:36 pm
EP, it's not so much the brand name or size- altho those are very
important!- but the type of needle. If you are using the old standard
'universal' needle you would be better off with a topstitching or microtex
or quilting needle. Different machines have their little preferences. I
tend to do most everything with 11, 12, 14 or 16 topstitching needle.
Except when I use a metallic (for metallic threads) or jeans needle (making
the coiled fabric baskets and for many layered appliqué). Different threads
and different applications call for different needles. And sometimes you
need to experiment with your thread and your machine and see what works the
best.
Leslie & The Furbabies in MO.
show/hide quoted text
>> One thing that hasn't yet been said is: although this is simply a
>> straight up and down quilting pattern, where did you start sewing? If
>> you started at one edge and proceeded across, that might have been less
>> successful than the traditional way of starting in the centre and moving
>> to one side, then going back to the centre and moving out to the other
>> side (still starting at a different edge each time).
> I read that this approach results in a mess -- I think it was a past
> edition of Hargrave's "Machine Heirloom Quilting" that said this. (But
> she also recommended clips, so this edition obviously was not the last
> word.) Most books I've read explain to start at the top of the length in
> the middle of the width and proceed right, alternating direction to start
> from the top or the bottom. Then go back to the middle of the width and
> start at the bottom of the length.
> And for grids, I've read you're supposed to start at the corners.
> I'd welcome any thoughts on this issue.
>> I bought a set of quilt clamps - used them just once >g< .... It is much
>> easier without anything.
> After reading so many experienced quilters say the same thing, and after
> my experience, I'm SOLD!
>> Oh, and what kind of needle are you using? Was it a new one? The type
>> of needle makes a lot of difference to me (I think it is an individual
>> thing). My quilting is my weakest aspect, so I need all the help I can
>> get!
> I was using a Schmetz 75/11 which I'd used just once previously on a
> mini-quilt with good success.
> ep
>
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Posted by Patti on October 19, 2009, 5:19 pm
We might be at cross purposes here?
I meant starting with the central line- not actually the centre point.
Did you read that as what I meant? I did actually mean exactly what you
quoted! I have had scrambled mind for a week or so - it's a nuisance, I
don't even know what I mean myself sometimes; annoying too, as I can
show/hide quoted text
usually explain things clearly >g<
Diagonal grids start at the corners.
I meant what 'kind' of needle, not just size. And the weight in a big
quilt might be a bit much for a 75/11?
However, I meant was it a quilting needle, a sharp/microtex, a topstitch
or ....?
.
show/hide quoted text
>I read that this approach results in a mess -- I think it was a past edition
>of Hargrave's "Machine Heirloom Quilting" that said this. (But she also
>recommended clips, so this edition obviously was not the last word.) Most
>books I've read explain to start at the top of the length in the middle of
>the width and proceed right, alternating direction to start from the top or
>the bottom. Then go back to the middle of the width and start at the bottom
>of the length.
>And for grids, I've read you're supposed to start at the corners.
>I'd welcome any thoughts on this issue.
>After reading so many experienced quilters say the same thing, and after my
>experience, I'm SOLD!
>I was using a Schmetz 75/11 which I'd used just once previously on a
>mini-quilt with good success.
>ep
--
Best Regards
pat on the hill
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Posted by Edna Pearl on October 19, 2009, 6:38 pm
Patti, it's not your fault the concept of starting in the middle -- but on
the edge! -- is so hard to express. :-) It's a lot easier to show with a
picture.
And I am using a Schmetz 75/11 *quilting* needle. I should have mentioned
that to begin with. I think it was Hargrave, again, that recommended these
for most purposes -- particulate Schmetz because they have something special
about the design of their quilting needle. (The main thing I've noticed as
they are the dickens to thread :-) This is not what I would call a heavy
quilt, but it does have cotton batting -- is that a little tougher than
poly? It kind of "feels" like it on the machine.
show/hide quoted text
> We might be at cross purposes here?
> I meant starting with the central line- not actually the centre point. Did
> you read that as what I meant? I did actually mean exactly what you
> quoted! I have had scrambled mind for a week or so - it's a nuisance, I
> don't even know what I mean myself sometimes; annoying too, as I can
> usually explain things clearly >g<
> Diagonal grids start at the corners.
> I meant what 'kind' of needle, not just size. And the weight in a big
> quilt might be a bit much for a 75/11?
> However, I meant was it a quilting needle, a sharp/microtex, a topstitch
> or ....?
> .
>>I read that this approach results in a mess -- I think it was a past
>>edition
>>of Hargrave's "Machine Heirloom Quilting" that said this. (But she also
>>recommended clips, so this edition obviously was not the last word.)
>>Most
>>books I've read explain to start at the top of the length in the middle of
>>the width and proceed right, alternating direction to start from the top
>>or
>>the bottom. Then go back to the middle of the width and start at the
>>bottom
>>of the length.
>>And for grids, I've read you're supposed to start at the corners.
>>I'd welcome any thoughts on this issue.
>>After reading so many experienced quilters say the same thing, and after
>>my
>>experience, I'm SOLD!
>>I was using a Schmetz 75/11 which I'd used just once previously on a
>>mini-quilt with good success.
>>ep
> --
> Best Regards
> pat on the hill
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