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Posted by Roberta on October 21, 2009, 3:31 am
Mine is of course a front loader. Couldn't imagine working with a top
loader, because I like being able to swap out the bobbin without
cutting the top thread.
Roberta in D
On Tue, 20 Oct 2009 17:14:06 -0500, Julia in MN
show/hide quoted text
>I did try binding after stablizing & before finishing the quilting on my
>last quilt, but had a bit of a problem. I was quilting feathers in the
>border, but the extra thickness of the binding kept catching on the
>(very slight) ridge of the bobbin cover. My machine is an Elna with a
>bobbin that loads from the top. That might not be a problem on a machine
>with a bobbin that loads from the front.
>Julia in MN
>Roberta wrote:
>> At the risk of a visit from the quilt police (or maybe the guilt
>> police), IMO if you baste well enough, you can start stitching
>> wherever convenient.
>> My usual method is to do an all-over grid of some kind (e.g. edges of
>> sashing), then complete the border, then sew on the binding and trim
>> off excess backing and batting. Then go back and quilt all the
>> middles.
>> Roberta in D
>>
>> On Mon, 19 Oct 2009 13:52:41 -0500, "Edna Pearl"
>>
>>>> One thing that hasn't yet been said is: although this is simply a
>>>> straight up and down quilting pattern, where did you start sewing? If you
>>>> started at one edge and proceeded across, that might have been less
>>>> successful than the traditional way of starting in the centre and moving
>>>> to one side, then going back to the centre and moving out to the other
>>>> side (still starting at a different edge each time).
>>> I read that this approach results in a mess -- I think it was a past edition
>>> of Hargrave's "Machine Heirloom Quilting" that said this. (But she also
>>> recommended clips, so this edition obviously was not the last word.) Most
>>> books I've read explain to start at the top of the length in the middle of
>>> the width and proceed right, alternating direction to start from the top or
>>> the bottom. Then go back to the middle of the width and start at the bottom
>>> of the length.
>>> And for grids, I've read you're supposed to start at the corners.
>>> I'd welcome any thoughts on this issue.
>>>> I bought a set of quilt clamps - used them just once >g< .... It is much
>>>> easier without anything.
>>> After reading so many experienced quilters say the same thing, and after my
>>> experience, I'm SOLD!
>>>> Oh, and what kind of needle are you using? Was it a new one? The type of
>>>> needle makes a lot of difference to me (I think it is an individual
>>>> thing). My quilting is my weakest aspect, so I need all the help I can
>>>> get!
>>> I was using a Schmetz 75/11 which I'd used just once previously on a
>>> mini-quilt with good success.
>>> ep
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Posted by Lizzy Taylor on October 21, 2009, 3:53 am
Roberta wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> Mine is of course a front loader. Couldn't imagine working with a top
> loader, because I like being able to swap out the bobbin without
> cutting the top thread.
I thought you were talking about washing machines for a moment there,
which had me very confused - I obviously have too much blood in my
caffeine stream!
Lizzy
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Posted by Julia in MN on October 21, 2009, 10:21 am
It's possible to do it with a top loader, too. I just flip my work up
over the arm of the machine to get at the bobbin.
Julia in MN
Roberta wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> Mine is of course a front loader. Couldn't imagine working with a top
> loader, because I like being able to swap out the bobbin without
> cutting the top thread.
> Roberta in D
>
> On Tue, 20 Oct 2009 17:14:06 -0500, Julia in MN
>
>> I did try binding after stablizing & before finishing the quilting on my
>> last quilt, but had a bit of a problem. I was quilting feathers in the
>> border, but the extra thickness of the binding kept catching on the
>> (very slight) ridge of the bobbin cover. My machine is an Elna with a
>> bobbin that loads from the top. That might not be a problem on a machine
>> with a bobbin that loads from the front.
>> Julia in MN
>> Roberta wrote:
>>> At the risk of a visit from the quilt police (or maybe the guilt
>>> police), IMO if you baste well enough, you can start stitching
>>> wherever convenient.
>>> My usual method is to do an all-over grid of some kind (e.g. edges of
>>> sashing), then complete the border, then sew on the binding and trim
>>> off excess backing and batting. Then go back and quilt all the
>>> middles.
>>> Roberta in D
>>> On Mon, 19 Oct 2009 13:52:41 -0500, "Edna Pearl"
>>>>> One thing that hasn't yet been said is: although this is simply a
>>>>> straight up and down quilting pattern, where did you start sewing? If you
>>>>> started at one edge and proceeded across, that might have been less
>>>>> successful than the traditional way of starting in the centre and moving
>>>>> to one side, then going back to the centre and moving out to the other
>>>>> side (still starting at a different edge each time).
>>>> I read that this approach results in a mess -- I think it was a past
edition
show/hide quoted text
>>>> of Hargrave's "Machine Heirloom Quilting" that said this. (But she also
>>>> recommended clips, so this edition obviously was not the last word.) Most
>>>> books I've read explain to start at the top of the length in the middle of
>>>> the width and proceed right, alternating direction to start from the top or
>>>> the bottom. Then go back to the middle of the width and start at the
bottom
show/hide quoted text
>>>> of the length.
>>>> And for grids, I've read you're supposed to start at the corners.
>>>> I'd welcome any thoughts on this issue.
>>>>> I bought a set of quilt clamps - used them just once >g< .... It is much
>>>>> easier without anything.
>>>> After reading so many experienced quilters say the same thing, and after my
>>>> experience, I'm SOLD!
>>>>> Oh, and what kind of needle are you using? Was it a new one? The type of
>>>>> needle makes a lot of difference to me (I think it is an individual
>>>>> thing). My quilting is my weakest aspect, so I need all the help I can
>>>>> get!
>>>> I was using a Schmetz 75/11 which I'd used just once previously on a
>>>> mini-quilt with good success.
>>>> ep
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Posted by Kate XXXXXX on October 19, 2009, 3:19 am
Edna Pearl wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> I quilted a bunch of straight lines with a walking foot for the first time
> today, and found it quite . . . erm . . . challenging. I am pretty sure
> that the solution to most of my problems is practice, practice, practice,
> but I thought I'd make a few notes here and see if anybody has any words of
> wisdom.
>
> 1. Setting the machine's stitch length was a joke. The stitch length was
> determined more by how much the quilt package was dragging for one reason or
> another -- snagging on the bicycle clips as they traveled on, under, around
> the machine, snagging on an accordian-fold in the package in my lap, etc.
> This is related to . . .
I tend to butt tables/supports up in an L shape for larger things, so
the items isn't pulling down. I also have a quilting table for the
sewing machine that gives me a larger flatbed area. Something to think
about.
show/hide quoted text
>
> 2. I hate bicycle clips. They scrape across the finish of my SM cabinet
> (admittedly a beat-up finish already, but still), they snag, they fall off
> on the floor, etc. I'm getting better with this. Would it help to wrap the
> clips with cheesecloth?
I have some plastic quilt clips that look like squashed flat bicycle
clips... Don't like them much either. I get on better without them,
sticking an occasional pin into the roll if I need to.
show/hide quoted text
>
> 3. No. 1 is also probably related to the fact that my SM and/or walking
> foot continually demanded changes in the upper thread tension. I was using
> different color threads on top and bottom, and occasionally the machine
> would apparently just change its mind about whether it would tighten bobbin
> threads up to the top or top threads to the bottom. I truly could not make
> heads or tails of what the thread tension would do next. The SM was well
> cleaned and lubricated. It seemed as if the machine just got tired and
> started tightening up one way or the other.
Take a poly micrifiber lens cloth (NOT an impregnated-with-lens-cleaner
type one) and floss between the tension disks. Whenever my machine
plays up like this, a quick flossing saves the day.
show/hide quoted text
>
> 4. Puckers on the back. I think this was due purely to the fact that I did
> a lousy job of spray-basting. The walking foot was feeding fine and doing
> what it was supposed to do; I just had glued some puckers into the back. I
> know what I'll do differently the next time I spray-baste.
I haven't spray-basted a large quilt yet, only cat sized ones. I pinned
the others... Yes, I have sewn through the head of a safety pin. No,
it didn't damage the machine. Yes, the needle broke. In several
pieces, one of which scarred my specs!
show/hide quoted text
> That said, I got some good practice and the quilt looks pretty decent on
> top, so far. After the thread yesterday when I asked about how far apart my
> straight-line quilting should be, I decided that the narrow lines I wanted
> would make the quilt narrower than I wanted. So I decided to go back to a
> triple-figure eight, Amish quilting pattern that had attracted me earlier.
> I'll quilt that tomorrow with my new, see-through darning foot. Based on
> past experience with a mini-quilt, I think I may be better at quilting such
> a pattern than I am at quilting a straight line! Meanders and stippling
> never attracted me very much before, but I find I'm having good luck with it
> on a practice scrap, so that may be in my future, too.
I like loop-de-loops too. No worries about the lines crossing! They
are supposed to. Like scribble with thread. :D
--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
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Posted by Edna Pearl on October 19, 2009, 2:55 pm
show/hide quoted text
> Take a poly micrifiber lens cloth (NOT an impregnated-with-lens-cleaner
> type one) and floss between the tension disks. Whenever my machine plays
> up like this, a quick flossing saves the day.
Pure genius. I have learned so much from this thread! Mind if I use a
clean, soft toothbrush? I went all over my machine with an oily old
toothbrush I save for this purpose, but it has never occurred to me to get
down into the top-thread tensions disks -- with something clean obviously,
not an oily brush!
ep
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>last quilt, but had a bit of a problem. I was quilting feathers in the
>border, but the extra thickness of the binding kept catching on the
>(very slight) ridge of the bobbin cover. My machine is an Elna with a
>bobbin that loads from the top. That might not be a problem on a machine
>with a bobbin that loads from the front.
>Julia in MN
>Roberta wrote:
>> At the risk of a visit from the quilt police (or maybe the guilt
>> police), IMO if you baste well enough, you can start stitching
>> wherever convenient.
>> My usual method is to do an all-over grid of some kind (e.g. edges of
>> sashing), then complete the border, then sew on the binding and trim
>> off excess backing and batting. Then go back and quilt all the
>> middles.
>> Roberta in D
>>
>> On Mon, 19 Oct 2009 13:52:41 -0500, "Edna Pearl"
>>
>>>> One thing that hasn't yet been said is: although this is simply a
>>>> straight up and down quilting pattern, where did you start sewing? If you
>>>> started at one edge and proceeded across, that might have been less
>>>> successful than the traditional way of starting in the centre and moving
>>>> to one side, then going back to the centre and moving out to the other
>>>> side (still starting at a different edge each time).
>>> I read that this approach results in a mess -- I think it was a past edition
>>> of Hargrave's "Machine Heirloom Quilting" that said this. (But she also
>>> recommended clips, so this edition obviously was not the last word.) Most
>>> books I've read explain to start at the top of the length in the middle of
>>> the width and proceed right, alternating direction to start from the top or
>>> the bottom. Then go back to the middle of the width and start at the bottom
>>> of the length.
>>> And for grids, I've read you're supposed to start at the corners.
>>> I'd welcome any thoughts on this issue.
>>>> I bought a set of quilt clamps - used them just once >g< .... It is much
>>>> easier without anything.
>>> After reading so many experienced quilters say the same thing, and after my
>>> experience, I'm SOLD!
>>>> Oh, and what kind of needle are you using? Was it a new one? The type of
>>>> needle makes a lot of difference to me (I think it is an individual
>>>> thing). My quilting is my weakest aspect, so I need all the help I can
>>>> get!
>>> I was using a Schmetz 75/11 which I'd used just once previously on a
>>> mini-quilt with good success.
>>> ep