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Posted by Sandy on June 9, 2009, 1:01 pm
show/hide quoted text
> The fold will be even with the pointy tip.
> What's the question on a "fatter angle"? Aren't we talking about
> a sharper pointier angle here?
> A "fatter angle", say 112 degrees, you would do exactly the same thing,
> the fold on the binding will be even with the outside edge of the point of
> your corner
> Hope this helps.
> Now, and this is important, this only will work on your narrower binding,
> that is, about 3/8" finished. If you want wider binding (which is going to
> be the new thing soon) you have to do some measureing and math! LOL
>
> Mickie
Thanks for all of your patient answers, Mickie. I've figured out where
the problem lay. Since I'd put corded piping into the seam between the
binding and the border, I had far too much bulk for those corners to
turn nicely. Once I'd trimmed out more of the bulk, things worked much
more easily. I'm ready to do the hand work now. :)
Thanks again!
--
Sandy in Henderson, near Las Vegas
sw.foster1 (at) gmail (dot) com (remove/change the obvious)
http://www.sandymike.net
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Posted by Mickie Swall on June 10, 2009, 8:37 pm
Great! The piping --would-- make a big difference. Glad it all worked out
okay for you.
Mickie
show/hide quoted text
>> The fold will be even with the pointy tip.
>> What's the question on a "fatter angle"? Aren't we talking about
>> a sharper pointier angle here?
>> A "fatter angle", say 112 degrees, you would do exactly the same thing,
>> the fold on the binding will be even with the outside edge of the point
>> of
>> your corner
>> Hope this helps.
>> Now, and this is important, this only will work on your narrower binding,
>> that is, about 3/8" finished. If you want wider binding (which is going
>> to
>> be the new thing soon) you have to do some measureing and math! LOL
>> Mickie
> Thanks for all of your patient answers, Mickie. I've figured out where
> the problem lay. Since I'd put corded piping into the seam between the
> binding and the border, I had far too much bulk for those corners to
> turn nicely. Once I'd trimmed out more of the bulk, things worked much
> more easily. I'm ready to do the hand work now. :)
> Thanks again!
> --
> Sandy in Henderson, near Las Vegas
> sw.foster1 (at) gmail (dot) com (remove/change the obvious)
> http://www.sandymike.net
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Posted by Roberta on June 9, 2009, 3:35 am
No magic formula. But if you fold your binding miter back at 45
degrees for a 90-degree corner, then it makes sense that the angle of
the fold should be half of whatever angle the corner is. So about 30
degrees. But in practice, it works just fine -you stitch the binding
to within a quarter inch of the end, lift the presser foot, turn the
piece to the next edge, eyeball about half the distance and fold your
binding back on that angle, then fold it forward again to line up with
the edge. My advice: don't worry about the angles, just do it!
For inward corners, of course, you basically need to leave the needle
down right at the quarter-inch point and pivot to the new edge. Then
when you come to stitching down the back of the binding, you fiddle
and shape the miter until it looks neat. You might need to very
cautiously trim out some of the excess to make a smooth finish.
Roberta in D
wrote:
show/hide quoted text
>I've done this before, but for some reason I've drawn a total blank this
>time. <G> I'm binding a table runner with pointed ends. The points are
>"normal" angles (90°), but the other four corners aren't; they're
>approximately 62° each. How in the world do I figure out how much of an
>"overlap" to leave at those corners when I fold them and continue
>attaching the binding by machine so as to be able to then fold the
>corners over neatly for the hand sewing part? (I hope that was a bit
>clearer than mud!)
>I've just ripped the binding off for the second time and I'm getting a
>bit flustered. <G> Thanks!
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Posted by Sandy on June 9, 2009, 1:00 pm
show/hide quoted text
> No magic formula. But if you fold your binding miter back at 45
> degrees for a 90-degree corner, then it makes sense that the angle of
> the fold should be half of whatever angle the corner is. So about 30
> degrees. But in practice, it works just fine -you stitch the binding
> to within a quarter inch of the end, lift the presser foot, turn the
> piece to the next edge, eyeball about half the distance and fold your
> binding back on that angle, then fold it forward again to line up with
> the edge. My advice: don't worry about the angles, just do it!
>
> For inward corners, of course, you basically need to leave the needle
> down right at the quarter-inch point and pivot to the new edge. Then
> when you come to stitching down the back of the binding, you fiddle
> and shape the miter until it looks neat. You might need to very
> cautiously trim out some of the excess to make a smooth finish.
> Roberta in D
Thanks, Roberta! I figured it out -- eventually. ;S I simply had far too
much bulk in the corners, and that's why nothing was working.
--
Sandy in Henderson, near Las Vegas
sw.foster1 (at) gmail (dot) com (remove/change the obvious)
http://www.sandymike.net
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> What's the question on a "fatter angle"? Aren't we talking about
> a sharper pointier angle here?
> A "fatter angle", say 112 degrees, you would do exactly the same thing,
> the fold on the binding will be even with the outside edge of the point of
> your corner
> Hope this helps.
> Now, and this is important, this only will work on your narrower binding,
> that is, about 3/8" finished. If you want wider binding (which is going to
> be the new thing soon) you have to do some measureing and math! LOL
>
> Mickie