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Posted by Dr. Zachary Smith on September 29, 2009, 2:25 pm
Pati,
Thanks for cluing me in on how unclear my OP was! :-) That's the way
it goes sometimes.
I'm not looking for anything metallic; I should have said shiny and
slippery. Texture is very important, especially when designing for
the visually-impaired (I'm not in this particular case, but I'm
gearing up for one eventually.)
I also should have included that I want nothing knit/stretchy, and no
quilting cottons, flannels, etc. I thought the shiny/slippery would
cover that but now it's obvious I don't know what I don't know...
Some of the fabrics I'll be using are theoretically "dry-clean only"
but I'm ignoring that on advice (orders) of someone whom I cannot win
the argument with (if you catch my drift)... But thanks for the tip
about colorfastness - I will add that to my notes.
The washboard may have been a bad analogy. The ribs will be 3/4" -
1" wide minimum, and likely stuffed with poly-fill or batting. The
effect should be as if I were using a high-sheen satin or similar.
I don't understand what you said about stitches & needles (yet) but
I'm printing it off for my notes. It looks like something my "coach/
consultant" knows... Thanks again,
Doc
show/hide quoted text
> Okay, first thing to think about is the washability of the fabric.
> That lets out any acetate, (which is also not always color stable.....
> it fume fades.) =A0And some of the metallic fabrics (like the "metal"
> which is printed onto a white or black knit) will rub off. (Upset me a
> bit when some copper stars I appliqued to square dance outfits for my
> folks ended up mostly white. sigh.)
> There are several types of fabrics with metallic highlights either
> woven in or printed on. Depends on the effect you want. You may need
> to resort to tissue lame, fused to a lightweight interfacing to help
> control ravelling and stabilize it.This will not hold up as long as
> regular cotton fabrics, though.
> To get a "rib" effect, it depends on the size of the ribs you want...
> If small I would suggest corded pintucks, using a twin needle. You can
> get twin needles in several different sizes.... the numbering system
> is such that you have the distance between the needles as well as the
> size (and type) of the needles. Using a darker thread for one needle
> can also enhance the shadow effect. <G> Remember to check on the width
> of your zigzag opening when selecting a wider spaced needle set. (They
> range from tiny 2.0 mm to 6.0 or 8.0 mm for some of the newer
> machines. Older machines may only take up to a 4.0 spacing. )
> A pintuck foot also helps to keep tucks evenly spaced and "un-
> squashed".
> Good luck,
> Pati, in Phx
> wrote:
> > OK, Ok, ok... here's the situation...
> > I'm working on a section of my CQ where I want to trapunto (can I use
> > that as a verb?) a piece of shiny fabric to create a "rib" effect
> > (several rows of adjacent parallel ribs - like a washboard) and
> > thereby make use of the highlights as light reflects off of the ribs.
> > I went through the "Practical Encyclopedia of Sewing" to try to get an
> > idea of which shiny fabric would be best for the purpose but, as
> > usual, I'm more confused than before I started. =A0It would not be
> > practical for me to buy several different types of fabric to
> > experiment. =A0If possible, I'm seeking some recommendations. =A0I have
> > some "flag silk" ;-), but it doesn't catch the light quite the right
> > way. =A0From the book, or if you were to put samples in front of me, I
> > can't tell the difference between satin, acetate lining, silk,
> > taffeta, polyester, etc. =A0Telling me, "Then it doesn't matter" isn't
> > the answer I'm looking for. =A0Cost is not a factor as I only need a
> > square foot or so, so even if I had to buy it off the bolt it's not a
> > big deal. =A0Which one I do use does depend on a few factors:
> > 1.) I need someting that takes embroidery well
> > 2.) wears well (or at least as well as possible)
> > 3.) will take a lot of quilt-type wear & tear, bending, folding,
> > pulling, etc. =A0The CQ is to be used - not hung on a wall and admired.
> > I can deal with stabilizers, etc. - whatever is needed to embroider,
> > etc. on it.
> > That's all I can think of at the moment. =A0As always, TIA
> > Doc- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
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Posted by Pati, in Phx on September 30, 2009, 11:19 am
In that case I would recommend a good polyester satin, in a heavy
weight, not the flimsy stuff. Jo-Ann's has some that is pretty good
and not too expensive....Casa, I do believe. (It is a grouping of dyed
to match satin, lace and sheers, in the special occasion apparel
fabrics.) Do finish the edges of your piece before manipulating it,
and cut oversize. Polys will ravel like crazy just sitting there.
As to wearability, any satin is more prone to show wear because of the
way the fabric is made. The shine comes from relatively long "floats"
where the "top" yarn covers several of the "bottom" yarns. But it
should give you what you want.
show/hide quoted text
And for that size channels a twin needle will be way too small. <G> I
would probably do a "trapunto by machine" technique for this. (Layer
puffy batting with the satin. Put water soluble thread on the machine
(top thread only) and stitch all the channel lines. Trim out the
batting in the areas you want "flat", very carefully very close to the
stitching. Layer with backing fabric and change thread on machine to
regular thread. Stitch over the water soluble thread to secure the
batting in place. Steam or lightly spray with water the water soluble
thread and it will go away leaving only the permanent stitching
show/hide quoted text
showing. Goes faster than you think it will. <G> )
Doing it this way keeps the "puff" on the top of the backing, instead
of allowing it to fill in both top and below making a cord type of
effect with the "connecting" low spots actually at the middle of the
"cord". (And I hope that makes sense...... )
Have fun,
Pati, in Phx
wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> Pati,
> Thanks for cluing me in on how unclear my OP was! =A0:-) =A0That's the wa=
y
show/hide quoted text
> it goes sometimes.
> I'm not looking for anything metallic; I should have said shiny and
> slippery. =A0Texture is very important, especially when designing for
> the visually-impaired (I'm not in this particular case, but I'm
> gearing up for one eventually.)
> I also should have included that I want nothing knit/stretchy, and no
> quilting cottons, flannels, etc. =A0I thought the shiny/slippery would
> cover that but now it's obvious I don't know what I don't know...
> Some of the fabrics I'll be using are theoretically "dry-clean only"
> but I'm ignoring that on advice (orders) of someone whom I cannot win
> the argument with (if you catch my drift)... =A0But thanks for the tip
> about colorfastness - I will add that to my notes.
> The washboard may have been a bad analogy. =A0The ribs will be 3/4" -
> 1" wide minimum, and likely stuffed with poly-fill or batting. =A0The
> effect should be as if I were using a high-sheen satin or similar.
> I don't understand what you said about stitches & needles (yet) but
> I'm printing it off for my notes. =A0It looks like something my "coach/
> consultant" knows... =A0Thanks again,
> Doc
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Posted by Roberta on September 30, 2009, 9:32 am
No idea which would be the best fabric, but I'd probably go with Pat's
chintz, or cotton sateen. Can't go wrong with cotton, mostly.
I do like Pati's suggestion of the twin needle for producing perfect
channels, if you can get it wide enough. After stitching, you can
achieve structure by stuffing the channels (google "boutis", the
French version of trapunto). You can use soft cotton yarn and a big
blunt needle to accomplish the deed. Use the yarn doubled if you like.
Roberta in D
On Tue, 29 Sep 2009 10:24:41 -0700 (PDT), "Pati, in Phx"
show/hide quoted text
>Okay, first thing to think about is the washability of the fabric.
>That lets out any acetate, (which is also not always color stable.....
>it fume fades.) And some of the metallic fabrics (like the "metal"
>which is printed onto a white or black knit) will rub off. (Upset me a
>bit when some copper stars I appliqued to square dance outfits for my
>folks ended up mostly white. sigh.)
>There are several types of fabrics with metallic highlights either
>woven in or printed on. Depends on the effect you want. You may need
>to resort to tissue lame, fused to a lightweight interfacing to help
>control ravelling and stabilize it.This will not hold up as long as
>regular cotton fabrics, though.
>To get a "rib" effect, it depends on the size of the ribs you want...
>If small I would suggest corded pintucks, using a twin needle. You can
>get twin needles in several different sizes.... the numbering system
>is such that you have the distance between the needles as well as the
>size (and type) of the needles. Using a darker thread for one needle
>can also enhance the shadow effect. <G> Remember to check on the width
>of your zigzag opening when selecting a wider spaced needle set. (They
>range from tiny 2.0 mm to 6.0 or 8.0 mm for some of the newer
>machines. Older machines may only take up to a 4.0 spacing. )
>A pintuck foot also helps to keep tucks evenly spaced and "un-
>squashed".
>Good luck,
>Pati, in Phx
>wrote:
>> OK, Ok, ok... here's the situation...
>> I'm working on a section of my CQ where I want to trapunto (can I use
>> that as a verb?) a piece of shiny fabric to create a "rib" effect
>> (several rows of adjacent parallel ribs - like a washboard) and
>> thereby make use of the highlights as light reflects off of the ribs.
>> I went through the "Practical Encyclopedia of Sewing" to try to get an
>> idea of which shiny fabric would be best for the purpose but, as
>> usual, I'm more confused than before I started. It would not be
>> practical for me to buy several different types of fabric to
>> experiment. If possible, I'm seeking some recommendations. I have
>> some "flag silk" ;-), but it doesn't catch the light quite the right
>> way. From the book, or if you were to put samples in front of me, I
>> can't tell the difference between satin, acetate lining, silk,
>> taffeta, polyester, etc. Telling me, "Then it doesn't matter" isn't
>> the answer I'm looking for. Cost is not a factor as I only need a
>> square foot or so, so even if I had to buy it off the bolt it's not a
>> big deal. Which one I do use does depend on a few factors:
>> 1.) I need someting that takes embroidery well
>> 2.) wears well (or at least as well as possible)
>> 3.) will take a lot of quilt-type wear & tear, bending, folding,
>> pulling, etc. The CQ is to be used - not hung on a wall and admired.
>> I can deal with stabilizers, etc. - whatever is needed to embroider,
>> etc. on it.
>> That's all I can think of at the moment. As always, TIA
>> Doc
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Posted by Tia Mary on September 29, 2009, 2:41 pm
Dr. Zachary Smith wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> OK, Ok, ok... here's the situation...
> I'm working on a section of my CQ where I want to trapunto (can I use
> that as a verb?) a piece of shiny fabric to create a "rib" effect
> (several rows of adjacent parallel ribs - like a washboard) and
> thereby make use of the highlights as light reflects off of the ribs.
> ...<snipped>....
What about using the silk that is woven with two different colors of
thread? I have a piece that has gold threads in one direction and then
purple threads in the other direction -- it is gorgeous too! This is a
heavier silk -- often dupioni, has a lustrous shimmer, and changes
colour depending on how you look at it. Absolutely nothing has the same
look as silk and it does shine, IMNSHO. You can find a bunch of it on
e-Bay. You don't have to buy from e-Bay but you can get some different
sellers. If you are interested, I can give you the name of the people I
show/hide quoted text
buy mine from. CiaoMeow >^;;^<
show/hide quoted text
PAX, Tia Mary >^;;^< (RCTQ Queen of Kitties)
Angels can't show their wings on earth but nothing was ever said about
their whiskers!
Visit my Photo albums at http://community.webshots.com/user/tiamary
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Posted by Dr. Zachary Smith on September 29, 2009, 3:07 pm
show/hide quoted text
> =A0 =A0What about using the silk that is woven with two different colors =
of
show/hide quoted text
> thread? =A0I have a piece that has gold threads in one direction and then
> purple threads in the other direction -- it is gorgeous too! =A0
That stuff is silk? I have some of that and the other color combo too
(turquoise & magenta?)
I'll be using them, but in a different way/location. I understand why
you're suggesting them,
but in this particular application, I want/need pure color and the
qualities of a satin. Maybe I should just go with that but I don't
know about the embroidering, wrinkling, wear, etc...
Doc
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> That lets out any acetate, (which is also not always color stable.....
> it fume fades.) =A0And some of the metallic fabrics (like the "metal"
> which is printed onto a white or black knit) will rub off. (Upset me a
> bit when some copper stars I appliqued to square dance outfits for my
> folks ended up mostly white. sigh.)
> There are several types of fabrics with metallic highlights either
> woven in or printed on. Depends on the effect you want. You may need
> to resort to tissue lame, fused to a lightweight interfacing to help
> control ravelling and stabilize it.This will not hold up as long as
> regular cotton fabrics, though.
> To get a "rib" effect, it depends on the size of the ribs you want...
> If small I would suggest corded pintucks, using a twin needle. You can
> get twin needles in several different sizes.... the numbering system
> is such that you have the distance between the needles as well as the
> size (and type) of the needles. Using a darker thread for one needle
> can also enhance the shadow effect. <G> Remember to check on the width
> of your zigzag opening when selecting a wider spaced needle set. (They
> range from tiny 2.0 mm to 6.0 or 8.0 mm for some of the newer
> machines. Older machines may only take up to a 4.0 spacing. )
> A pintuck foot also helps to keep tucks evenly spaced and "un-
> squashed".
> Good luck,
> Pati, in Phx
> wrote:
> > OK, Ok, ok... here's the situation...
> > I'm working on a section of my CQ where I want to trapunto (can I use
> > that as a verb?) a piece of shiny fabric to create a "rib" effect
> > (several rows of adjacent parallel ribs - like a washboard) and
> > thereby make use of the highlights as light reflects off of the ribs.
> > I went through the "Practical Encyclopedia of Sewing" to try to get an
> > idea of which shiny fabric would be best for the purpose but, as
> > usual, I'm more confused than before I started. =A0It would not be
> > practical for me to buy several different types of fabric to
> > experiment. =A0If possible, I'm seeking some recommendations. =A0I have
> > some "flag silk" ;-), but it doesn't catch the light quite the right
> > way. =A0From the book, or if you were to put samples in front of me, I
> > can't tell the difference between satin, acetate lining, silk,
> > taffeta, polyester, etc. =A0Telling me, "Then it doesn't matter" isn't
> > the answer I'm looking for. =A0Cost is not a factor as I only need a
> > square foot or so, so even if I had to buy it off the bolt it's not a
> > big deal. =A0Which one I do use does depend on a few factors:
> > 1.) I need someting that takes embroidery well
> > 2.) wears well (or at least as well as possible)
> > 3.) will take a lot of quilt-type wear & tear, bending, folding,
> > pulling, etc. =A0The CQ is to be used - not hung on a wall and admired.
> > I can deal with stabilizers, etc. - whatever is needed to embroider,
> > etc. on it.
> > That's all I can think of at the moment. =A0As always, TIA
> > Doc- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -