Triangle problems - Page 4

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Triangle problems Marie Dodge 02-12-2008
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Posted by Marie Dodge on February 12, 2008, 7:17 pm

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No, when the piece is sewn on above it flattens the point. There is no seam
area. The point of the roof or top of the lighthouse thing comes right to
the edge of the block. It happens when the sides are sewn onto the sides of
the triangle. There is no seam allowance - wither at the top or bottom of
the triangles points. As soon as sides or a top row are added the points
are gone under the seam. How do I attach 3 triangles together to make a
rectangle? That's what I need to know since when I open the triangle (after
attached to another piece of fabric) the bottoms don't line up and there's
no seam allowance on the sides. If there the sides have a seam allowance
than the top doesn't.

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I allow 1/4" for seam allowances. But when I sew 3 triangles together to
make a rectangle they don't work. There's no space above the sides, if there
is, then there's no space (seam allowance) at the top.


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Yes, but that doesn't work with material, just on graph paper. I've been at
this since 8:30 AM this morning. I've done it over and over and it comes
out the same. How are three triangles sewn together to make a rectangle that
has seam allowances? I cut the pieces out on graph paper, added the 1/4"
seam allowances, cut the material out, sew it, and there are no seam
allowances on the sides or the top - one or the other. When another row is
added it clips the point off the top or the sides of the middle triangle.
Where are the smaller triangles placed on the middle larger triangle before
sewing them together?


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Posted by Pati C. on February 12, 2008, 7:34 pm
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If you are making a flying goose unit, a rectangle that finishes twice
as long as it is wide, with a large quarter square triangle in the
middle and 2 half square triangles on the sides then you need to cut the
following pieces. for a rectangle finishing at 1" by 2":
For your quarter square triangle, you need to cut a square on both
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on a side.
For the "sky" part, the smaller, half square triangles, cut one square
on one diagonal. That square should be 1 7/8" (again, for "perfect"
sewists. I usually cut my square for the HST a little large, so that I
can trim a bit as needed.
When you sew the small triangles to the large triangle, line up the
straight edges at the "bottom", the corner of the small triangle will
stick out beyond the point of the large triangle. Sew with a scant
quarter inch seam. Press to the small triangle. Repeat with other small
triangle. The point of the large triangle should be 1/4" below the cut
edge. (If you use a bit larger square for your small tris then it may be
a bit more than that.) The seams should go exactly through the middle of
the bottom corners.
I really wish we could see exactly where/what the problem is is. But
maybe this will help.

Pati, in Phx

Posted by Marie Dodge on February 12, 2008, 8:52 pm

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That's almost exactly what they are. :^)

I usually cut my square for the HST a little large, so that I
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Yes, I got them to that point now.

If you use a bit larger square for your small tris then it may be
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There is no seam allowance on the sides which cuts off the bottom points and
blunts them. How do I sew them to get a seam allowance on the sides of the
rectangle? This site http://www.quilterscache.com/H/Howtomakegeese.html
doesn't explain how that is done nor does it show seam allowances.

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Posted by Anne Rogers on February 12, 2008, 9:19 pm

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Those pictures aren't that great, they show none of the detail you need
to get it all lined up right.

Assuming you have got the correct sizes, if your seam allowance is
missing at one side, then you'll have extra somewhere else - did you get
large dog ears that you trimmed off?

One way to teach yourself where to match things like this is to mark
with a small dot at the location of all the finished corners of each
shape. To figure out where to put this, go back to the graph paper, draw
the finished shape, then using a ruler draw another line 1/4 inch away,
this would be the fabric you cut, the corners of the inner drawn line
are the points you mark.

Once you have your 3 pieces, take 2 of them and put a pin straight
through the matching mark on each piece, this will show you how to place
each piece on top of the other to get all the points in the right place.

Another thing to consider is the size you're working with, these units
are pretty darn small, it's possible you're doing everything "right",
but just aren't doing it accurately enough to work on this size, you
lose the fudge factor of a bigger piece. I'd try it with 2" by 4" and
see what happens. You'd cut your big triangle from a 5 1/4 in square
(cut into 4) and the little ones from a 2 7/8 in square. Try that to see
if you problem is accuracy or placement.

Cheers
Anne

Posted by Marie Dodge on February 13, 2008, 12:30 am

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I can't say they were really large, no.

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I think it's a combination, = the bias edges worked with, the small size,
the difficulty seeing with this new Janome foot, and I'm just plain
exhausted at this point.

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