If you were Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
|
Posted by Taria on October 8, 2009, 8:27 pm
Woohoo for getting help. We need to get you up and sewing
away. I'm hopeful you will be smooth sailing now.
Taria
show/hide quoted text
>I took Taria's advice and "asked Jan" at the Janome site. Her answer
> was within a few hours, and she confirms what you, Denny, are saying.
> The dealer isn't right about the dbx needles - those are for the
> "other two" 1600 models. The one I have, Janome 1600p, requires the
> hlx5 needles. So I called the dealer back, they hadn't mailed the dbx
> needles, and will instead ship me the hlx5's. sheesh. Jan also gave
> me a long list of things to check on my machine set up, some I've
> done, and some I had no idea, so once I get the needles, I'll try
> again.
> Musicmaker, thankful for the advice (and hugs) that are always
> available here on rctq.
|
|
Posted by Karen, Queen of Squishies on October 8, 2009, 3:19 pm
((((HUGS!!!!!))))
Karen, Queen of Squishies
|
|
Posted by Polly Esther on October 8, 2009, 5:49 pm
Well, now. Well, well, well. Isn't that something? And furthermore - when
all the trauma has settled - next time you're having thread problems, add
one more solution to your list.
Sometimes a spool of thread is the guilty party. Now and then I get one
that was made when the thread company was having a really bad day and
nothing is going to make it work. Nothing. Always swap out your top thread
before you abandon ship. Polly
|
|
Posted by John on October 8, 2009, 6:49 pm
show/hide quoted text
> Ok. =A0I'm fighting my new machine and I just know that you who remember
> my troubles with the Baby Lock quest are going to roll your eyes and
> say it's gotta be user error. =A0but gosh. =A0the dealer has to special
> order the foot control cause it's missing when I take it home, and
> then it takes me plus friends and family to finally get the grace
> frame assembled, during which time a plastic part breaks and has to be
> replaced, and weeks later, the frame is loaded, the electricity is
> hooked up, the machine is threaded and I finally get ready to quilt,
> and no matter what needle I use, at any speed, the top thread
> continually breaks. =A0Panic is touching the edges of my consciousness.
> Rethread the machine, rethread the bobbin, change the needled, lower
> the top tension - all multiple times. =A0no luck. =A0Yes, I pulled the
> bobbin thread up from the bottom and laid both threads under the
> darning foot. =A0Yes, I put the presser foot down before starting. =A0So =
I
show/hide quoted text
> called the dealer and they tell me that the Janome 1600p takes a
> special industrial needle called the dbx-1. =A0??????????? =A0so I said,
> "Don't take this the wrong way, but why didn't you tell me that when I
> bought the machine and drove 60 miles home?" =A0 "and why wasn't the
> right needle in the machine when I took it home? =A0It was the floor
> model, after all?" =A0 uummm. =A0 hhhmmmm.
> What's the deal? =A0Any Janome 1600P owners out there who can give me
> some tried and true tips to try with my own machine? =A0Anyone want to
> come to Charleston IL and teach me how to machine quilt? =A0 hhhmmm?
> Musicmaker
The 1600 does in fact take a DBx-1. It is a round shank needle and you
need to be careful when you place it into the clamp and make sure the
the scarf, or cut out for the needle eye is facing toward the right. I
use a set of locking tweezers, to grasp the needle at the scarf and
position it so that the handle of the tweezers is pointing directly at
me. If you do this you will have no problems, but you need to make
sure that however you position the scarf, the cut out for the bobbin
hook is able to pass close to the needle eye to take up the bobbin
thread. Just make sure that the scarf is pointing in the right
direction. If you take off the needle plate and expose the workings it
will become apparent what has to happen when the needle goes up and
down, to make the thread take up happen. Just advance the wheel slowly
so that you can make sure that the needle scarf does not hit the
bobbin hook or you will have lots of little bits flying out of the
machine and creating lots of expensive repairs. It sounds more
complicated that it really is, but it is different than a domestic
home sewing machine with the flat surface that acts as a register for
placement of the needle in the correct position. The 1600 uses that
industrial needle because of the high speed capability of the machine.
Most industrial machines have such high speed capability, or even
higher, up to 5500 stitches per minute, that they require a sturdier
clamping system than is found on domestic machines. Good luck. It
really isn't that difficult once you get the hang of it, and should be
mater of fact when you learn to do it your way.
John
|
|
Posted by John on October 8, 2009, 6:56 pm
show/hide quoted text
> > Ok. =A0I'm fighting my new machine and I just know that you who remembe=
r
show/hide quoted text
> > my troubles with the Baby Lock quest are going to roll your eyes and
> > say it's gotta be user error. =A0but gosh. =A0the dealer has to special
> > order the foot control cause it's missing when I take it home, and
> > then it takes me plus friends and family to finally get the grace
> > frame assembled, during which time a plastic part breaks and has to be
> > replaced, and weeks later, the frame is loaded, the electricity is
> > hooked up, the machine is threaded and I finally get ready to quilt,
> > and no matter what needle I use, at any speed, the top thread
> > continually breaks. =A0Panic is touching the edges of my consciousness.
> > Rethread the machine, rethread the bobbin, change the needled, lower
> > the top tension - all multiple times. =A0no luck. =A0Yes, I pulled the
> > bobbin thread up from the bottom and laid both threads under the
> > darning foot. =A0Yes, I put the presser foot down before starting. =A0S=
o I
show/hide quoted text
> > called the dealer and they tell me that the Janome 1600p takes a
> > special industrial needle called the dbx-1. =A0??????????? =A0so I said=
,
show/hide quoted text
> > "Don't take this the wrong way, but why didn't you tell me that when I
> > bought the machine and drove 60 miles home?" =A0 "and why wasn't the
> > right needle in the machine when I took it home? =A0It was the floor
> > model, after all?" =A0 uummm. =A0 hhhmmmm.
> > What's the deal? =A0Any Janome 1600P owners out there who can give me
> > some tried and true tips to try with my own machine? =A0Anyone want to
> > come to Charleston IL and teach me how to machine quilt? =A0 hhhmmm?
> > Musicmaker
> The 1600 does in fact take a DBx-1. It is a round shank needle and you
> need to be careful when you place it into the clamp and make sure the
> the scarf, or cut out for the needle eye is facing toward the right. I
> use a set of locking tweezers, to grasp the needle at the scarf and
> position it so that the handle of the tweezers is pointing directly at
> me. If you do this you will have no problems, but you need to make
> sure that however you position the scarf, the cut out for the bobbin
> hook is able to pass close to the needle eye to take up the bobbin
> thread. Just make sure that the scarf is pointing in the right
> direction. If you take off the needle plate and expose the workings it
> will become apparent what has to happen when the needle goes up and
> down, to make the thread take up happen. Just advance the wheel slowly
> so that you can make sure that the needle scarf does not hit the
> bobbin hook or you will have lots of little bits flying out of the
> machine and creating lots of expensive repairs. It sounds more
> complicated that it really is, but it is different than a domestic
> home sewing machine with the flat surface that acts as a register for
> placement of the needle in the correct position. The 1600 uses that
> industrial needle because of the high speed capability of the machine.
> Most industrial machines have such high speed capability, or even
> higher, up to 5500 stitches per minute, that they require a sturdier
> clamping system than is found on domestic machines. Good luck. It
> really isn't that difficult once you get the hang of it, and should be
> mater of fact when you learn to do it your way.
> John
I should offer a correction. If you are using the 1600 DB which is
what I have, then it takes the DB-1 needle. If you have the 1600 DBX
then it takes the DBX-1 needle. The only difference in the DB and DBX
is that they are machine specific. You need to know exactly which
machine you have. If it has the thread cutter, it is the DBX. If it is
the bare bones machine without the thread cutter, then it is a DB. and
should take the DB needles. Hope this clarifies the problem.
John
|
Page 2 of 4 < 1 2 3 > last >>
| Similar Threads | Posted | | Janome Special Edition Model 372 | August 31, 2009, 7:01 pm |
| needle breaking | September 4, 2006, 12:26 pm |
| Needle problems | September 4, 2006, 1:10 pm |
| A new-to-me Schmetz needle | February 22, 2007, 12:56 pm |
| Thread the Needle Day | July 25, 2007, 2:31 pm |
| needle and thread | September 21, 2007, 7:09 pm |
| Spiral Eye Needle | August 8, 2009, 12:53 pm |
| choosing a needle? | November 4, 2009, 10:36 pm |
| Needle turn applique | January 15, 2007, 8:44 pm |
| Needle brands - your opinions | March 17, 2007, 3:19 pm |
|
|
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap
> was within a few hours, and she confirms what you, Denny, are saying.
> The dealer isn't right about the dbx needles - those are for the
> "other two" 1600 models. The one I have, Janome 1600p, requires the
> hlx5 needles. So I called the dealer back, they hadn't mailed the dbx
> needles, and will instead ship me the hlx5's. sheesh. Jan also gave
> me a long list of things to check on my machine set up, some I've
> done, and some I had no idea, so once I get the needles, I'll try
> again.
> Musicmaker, thankful for the advice (and hugs) that are always
> available here on rctq.