I have a couple of basic questions regarding finishing.
I'm hemming a sheer curtain. It's slippery and frays quite a bit. I zig zagged the ends so that it doesn't fray. I'm not happy with the look. How do you hem a sheer curtain? Do you slip stitch after you zig zag it?
While applying bias tape (store-bought tape) to arm holes do you cut the bias tape at an angle? For the arm hole I finished I found that the length of the tape is enough for the arm hole opening but it falls short when I turn it over and slip stitch on the inside. If I'm not saying this right, please let me know and I'll explain.
Since a zig-zag finish would probably show through sheer fabric, I would recommend folding a deep *double* hem (i.e for a 3" hem fold three inches, then fold three inches a second time) so that the raw edge is completely enclosed, then either hand or machine sew a blind-stitch hem. Of course you have to plan for enough fabric to allow the double hem allowance.
Did you ease the curve? It helps to double fold the bias tape, and then press it with *lots* of steam to the same curve as the garment opening *before* sewing the first line of stitching. You can then turn and then either stitch-in-the-ditch from the right side or hand sew the inside edge down. There are some good instructions here:
To the best of my knowledge, sheer curtains usually are finished with a double hem. IOW, the ends are folded under 3 inches or so, then folded under another 3 inches. This makes the hem look neat and uniform, and the raw edge doesn't seem to ravel even in laundering.
If I had to hem a sheer curtain that wasn't cut long enough to allow for a double hem and you think the raw edge would fray even enclosed inside the hem, I think I'd try putting a thin line of sealant such as Fray Check along the raw edge, turn it under a half inch or so, then turn the hem up and slip stitch (or machine stitch) it in place. I think the sealant would be less obvious than a zig zagged edge.
For your armhole finishing question, that's a challenge you run into anytime you apply bias tape to a curved edge. You need to ease in a little extra fullness as you stitch the tape to the armhole so that the free edge will fit without having to stretch it. Because of the sizing in purchased bias tape, it may be a little tricky to ease around the curve...you don't want obvious gathers at the stitching line. I think it would help to dampen the tape at your ironing board and press the curve in, letting the steam shrink the edge to the stitched to the armhole.
I did some sheers. (They were purchased and not quite long enough.) I picked out the deep deep hem, lightly pressed, then re-hemmed with a strip of sparkly sheer ribbon and a row of sequins off a 60's-type doorway curtain.
If you add hem interest, any zig zagging will not be noticed.
I did some sheers. (They were purchased and not quite long enough.) I picked out the deep deep hem, lightly pressed, then re-hemmed with a strip of sparkly sheer ribbon and a row of sequins off a 60's-type doorway curtain.
If you add hem interest, any zig zagging will not be noticed.
I nearly always cut bias tape along a thread. It's usually easy to pick up a thread with a needle or fine awl and draw it out to make a mark to cut along. Remember that the cut edges must cross at the seam line when you sew two pieces together.
I flatten the tape against the right side of the fabric while pinning it around the armhole. It will have to be eased a little at the raw edge to make it long enough at the folded edge; by holding it in the exact position it will occupy after you fold it to the inside, it is easy to see how much you have to ease it.
Another tip: iron the seam allowances toward the tape, then, when you fold to the inside, fold just barely off the seam line, so that a very narrow piping of the outside fabric shows on the wrong side -- the tape will naturally want to fold this way. (The thicker the fashion fabric is, the wider the "piping" will be.) This prevents any trace of the facing from showing on the outside.
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