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Posted by charlotte on July 4, 2006, 9:44 am
Hi all,
For those of you who remember me, the year in France is rapidly ending
and I'm terribly sad. It has been better than I could have imagined.
I'll be back Stateside at the end of August.
In related news, BF applied for a permanent position and I accepted, so
he's now DFH (darling future husband). I've been using the time in
France to scout patterns and ribbons and lace and all that fun stuff!
Wedding dress musings and questions:
OK, here is the dress of my dreams:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6d803b3127cce8a02a2ec514200000015108C=
aNW7NmzcA
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6dc30b3127cce97716f39a0ad00000015108I=
btWbVm3cG
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6dc30b3127cce97716f2e218a00000015108I=
btWbVm3cG
(however I don't want any train at all)
I'll buy a bustier, make an A-line skirt of silk duponi (I can hear
Kate scream), so all that is left is the top. I found this pattern
which will get me mostly there, good thing for me I'm exactly a
Butterick 12:
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B4392
(view B, I'll have to change it to short sleeves)
I have test lace to make it in, then I go to the store for the
60=80/meter lace which matches my mother's veil:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/chrliegrl/wholeVeil.jpg
The pattern instructs French seams, but even on the envelope photo they
look too bulky. Is this a candidate for seam tape? Some other
treatment?
The pattern also slips in the instructions that their edging is
*applied*. What!? I want to use the natural border of the lace. I think
that if I create an additional shoulder dart I can use the border from
the neck (it has a center back seam) to the bottom front. I'm not busty
so I'm not sure where to put this one. As for the rest of the front, if
I'm clever enough I imagine I can lay it out such that I can mitre that
bottom corner and continue the natural scallops along the bottom edge.
Maybe I just create a smoothish peplum and ignore their pieces from the
waist down? Am I crazy? :)
Maybe I make this up three times? One toile to get these new seams,
once in lace to confirm it works (and I get to wear that one too) and
finally in my real lace. I'm trying to minimize the amount of
60=80/meter lace I have to buy (and I know that is a great price, I've
seen it up to 250=80/meter).
OK, thank you all in advance! I will be back and contributing more in a
show/hide quoted text
matter of mere months. <sob>
-Charlotte
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Posted by Kate Dicey on July 4, 2006, 10:14 am
charlotte wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> Hi all,
> For those of you who remember me, the year in France is rapidly ending
> and I'm terribly sad. It has been better than I could have imagined.
> I'll be back Stateside at the end of August.
I'm sure they will be glad to have you back. Europe, however, will be
the poorer for your loss.
show/hide quoted text
>
> In related news, BF applied for a permanent position and I accepted, so
> he's now DFH (darling future husband). I've been using the time in
> France to scout patterns and ribbons and lace and all that fun stuff!
Congratulations! :D
show/hide quoted text
>
> Wedding dress musings and questions:
> OK, here is the dress of my dreams:
>
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6d803b3127cce8a02a2ec514200000015108CaNW7NmzcA
show/hide quoted text
>
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6dc30b3127cce97716f39a0ad00000015108IbtWbVm3cG
show/hide quoted text
>
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6dc30b3127cce97716f2e218a00000015108IbtWbVm3cG
show/hide quoted text
> (however I don't want any train at all)
Very pretty!
show/hide quoted text
>
> I'll buy a bustier, make an A-line skirt of silk duponi (I can hear
> Kate scream), so all that is left is the top. I found this pattern
> which will get me mostly there, good thing for me I'm exactly a
> Butterick 12:
> http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B4392
> (view B, I'll have to change it to short sleeves)
I'll only scream to cheer you on! Silk dupion is lovely to work with.
I'm currently working on 4 different jackets and a skirt in silk dupion,
and it's as easy to sew as cotton (but you need to be very careful
should something need unpicking!). I have plenty of advice for you when
the time comes.
That's a very pretty top, and will complement your skirt wonderfully.
However, Butterick are not reliable for size these days: what fits in
one pattern may not in another of the same size... See this month's
Threads magazine! ;)
show/hide quoted text
>
> I have test lace to make it in, then I go to the store for the
> 60€/meter lace which matches my mother's veil:
> http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/chrliegrl/wholeVeil.jpg
What a good idea to test in lace!
I wore my mother's veil: it is plain at the edge, and just a massive
single square (it touched the ground all round!) of the finest silk
tulle... So light and airy, and you really CAN pinch it in the centre
and pull it through a wedding ring!
show/hide quoted text
>
> The pattern instructs French seams, but even on the envelope photo they
> look too bulky. Is this a candidate for seam tape? Some other
> treatment?
lap the seams... Actually, I might make the garment in silk tulle, with
just 1/4" seam allowances, and mount the lace on that, lapping and
matching the motifs. You really need a couple of good books to show the
technique:
Vogue & Butterick Designer Sewing Techniques, ISBN 0-801908620-6 $17/£12.99
Couture Sewing Techniques, Claire B Shaeffer. ISBN 1-56158-497-5 (The
Taunton Press, 2001), us$21.95/can$34.00
show/hide quoted text
>
> The pattern also slips in the instructions that their edging is
> *applied*. What!? I want to use the natural border of the lace.
Yes, you cut it off carefully, using the body of the lace for the body
of the garment, and then re-apply the border. You do this to
accommodate the curved shape of the garment. The books show you how.
Stitches get lost in the complexity of the lace! :)
I think
show/hide quoted text
> that if I create an additional shoulder dart I can use the border from
> the neck (it has a center back seam) to the bottom front. I'm not busty
> so I'm not sure where to put this one. As for the rest of the front, if
> I'm clever enough I imagine I can lay it out such that I can mitre that
> bottom corner and continue the natural scallops along the bottom edge.
> Maybe I just create a smoothish peplum and ignore their pieces from the
> waist down? Am I crazy? :)
Take a look at how the books do it. It's rather hard to describe in
just a few words.
show/hide quoted text
>
> Maybe I make this up three times? One toile to get these new seams,
> once in lace to confirm it works (and I get to wear that one too) and
> finally in my real lace. I'm trying to minimize the amount of
> 60€/meter lace I have to buy (and I know that is a great price, I've
> seen it up to 250€/meter).
You would do well to do these three stages! :)
show/hide quoted text
>
> OK, thank you all in advance! I will be back and contributing more in a
> -Charlotte
>
For an A line skirt to go with it, try this:
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B4228=x&TI=10003&page=3
or this:
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B4131=x&TI=10003&page=3
Remember, the skirt doesn't have to have a train: you can cut that part
off! And you could even make the bustier... ;)
I've just made that second skirt in a poly Duchess satin, and it works
very nicely: it's on my web site, under Further Adventures in Wedding
Gown Making.
--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
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Posted by charlotte on July 5, 2006, 2:04 am
Kate Dicey wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> Congratulations! :D
Thank you! :)
show/hide quoted text
> I'll only scream to cheer you on! Silk dupion is lovely to work with.
> I'm currently working on 4 different jackets and a skirt in silk dupion,
> and it's as easy to sew as cotton (but you need to be very careful
> should something need unpicking!). I have plenty of advice for you when
> the time comes.
Excellent, thank you. I've made a structured sheath, but it was short.
This skirt will be floorlength so I need just the right pattern.
Luckily I have a source in Boston which carries it (in person) for
$9.00/yard so I could make more than one if necessary.
show/hide quoted text
> That's a very pretty top, and will complement your skirt wonderfully.
> However, Butterick are not reliable for size these days: what fits in
> one pattern may not in another of the same size... See this month's
> Threads magazine! ;)
That is always the fear, but in hopes of not reinventing the wheel I'm
going to try it. If it doesn't work, well, I can always trace off my
favorite vest.
show/hide quoted text
> I wore my mother's veil: it is plain at the edge, and just a massive
> single square (it touched the ground all round!) of the finest silk
> tulle... So light and airy, and you really CAN pinch it in the centre
> and pull it through a wedding ring!
Wow, that sounds amazing. This one isn't nearly so fine but it's my
*mom's* so ...
Actually, I was about 5ish(?) when Diana and Charles married. My
grandmother made us veils like Diana's so all us girl cousins could
play wedding but I threw a fit and made her unpick it and change it to
look like my *mom's*.
show/hide quoted text
> lap the seams... Actually, I might make the garment in silk tulle, with
> just 1/4" seam allowances, and mount the lace on that, lapping and
> matching the motifs. You really need a couple of good books to show the
> technique:
I have seen photos of the technique and had long considered it as a
last resort. If I do this then I might as well wait 'till I get home
and just harvest the lace off my mother's dress. I had hoped to save
time and effort by finding yardage in the right motif but she has
appliques all over her dress and the bottom hem is all the same lace.
Somehow she got a HUGE stain right in the center of the skirt but the
lace is all fine.
show/hide quoted text
> Yes, you cut it off carefully, using the body of the lace for the body
> of the garment, and then re-apply the border. You do this to
> accommodate the curved shape of the garment. The books show you how.
> Stitches get lost in the complexity of the lace! :)
Really? This lace has a border motif that's a good 6" wide at the
widest point (like the veil). I had hoped to keep it intact like the
veil. This requires more pondering... :)
show/hide quoted text
> http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B4228=3Dx&=
TI=3D10003&page=3D3
show/hide quoted text
> or this:
> http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B4131=3Dx&=
TI=3D10003&page=3D3
These both look good. I'll keep my eyes peeled. I'm looking for
something nice a slim, like this JCrew skirt:
http://www.jcrew.com/images/newshots2004/main500/69340_NA6594_FA05_m.jpg
(they had a different one I preferred but this one is good enough)
show/hide quoted text
> And you could even make the bustier... ;)
Ahh, yes. As the French say "J'ai d'autres chats =E0 fouetter" (I have
other cats to whip)* There's the flower girl dress, the guest book
quilt, the tablecloths, etc. I have to apply my attention to where it
is most effective and let fall the rest.
show/hide quoted text
> I've just made that second skirt in a poly Duchess satin, and it works
> very nicely: it's on my web site, under Further Adventures in Wedding
> Gown Making.
I was just at Bouchara drooling on their Silk Duchess Satin at 50% off.
Stunning! Even still it was going to be over $100 in fabric for the
skirt. I'd rather upgrade my flowers or my food than my silk, duponi is
so pretty in its own way. I'll check it out for the skirt though!
Thanks for your advice! I have to work out whether to buy the expensive
lace before going home and getting the books or just count on using
mom's lace and save the money. Decisions decisions...
Thanks again,
Charlotte
**** Please note, no cats will be harmed in the making of my wedding
gown. ****
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Posted by Kate Dicey on July 5, 2006, 4:03 am
charlotte wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> Kate Dicey wrote:
> > Congratulations! :D
>
> Thank you! :)
>
>
>>I'll only scream to cheer you on! Silk dupion is lovely to work with.
>>I'm currently working on 4 different jackets and a skirt in silk dupion,
>>and it's as easy to sew as cotton (but you need to be very careful
>>should something need unpicking!). I have plenty of advice for you when
>>the time comes.
>
>
> Excellent, thank you. I've made a structured sheath, but it was short.
> This skirt will be floorlength so I need just the right pattern.
> Luckily I have a source in Boston which carries it (in person) for
> $9.00/yard so I could make more than one if necessary.
That's good to know - but try cutting your lining first and using that
as the toile: saves work! I did that with the one I made, and it was a
bit too short, despite careful measuring, so we abandoned it for the
skirt and I'll trim it level and make her a petticoat as an extra layer
out of it. With poly lining at £1.25m we can afford that! :)
show/hide quoted text
>
>
>>That's a very pretty top, and will complement your skirt wonderfully.
>>However, Butterick are not reliable for size these days: what fits in
>>one pattern may not in another of the same size... See this month's
>>Threads magazine! ;)
>
>
> That is always the fear, but in hopes of not reinventing the wheel I'm
> going to try it. If it doesn't work, well, I can always trace off my
> favorite vest.
It probably won't be far off: just measure the pattern pieces, allow for
ease, and compare. The toile will let you know where any adjustments
need to be made.
show/hide quoted text
>
>
>>I wore my mother's veil: it is plain at the edge, and just a massive
>>single square (it touched the ground all round!) of the finest silk
>>tulle... So light and airy, and you really CAN pinch it in the centre
>>and pull it through a wedding ring!
>
>
> Wow, that sounds amazing. This one isn't nearly so fine but it's my
> *mom's* so ...
Yeah, makes all the difference! :)
show/hide quoted text
> Actually, I was about 5ish(?) when Diana and Charles married. My
> grandmother made us veils like Diana's so all us girl cousins could
> play wedding but I threw a fit and made her unpick it and change it to
> look like my *mom's*.
I got married the year after that wedding: I used the Burda pattern for
Dana's dress, altered to suit my tastes (for NOBODY was I wearing nine
miles of crumpled paper bag, and froufrou frillery up to my ears, but
the basic shape was right!)
show/hide quoted text
>
>
>>lap the seams... Actually, I might make the garment in silk tulle, with
>>just 1/4" seam allowances, and mount the lace on that, lapping and
>>matching the motifs. You really need a couple of good books to show the
>>technique:
>
>
> I have seen photos of the technique and had long considered it as a
> last resort. If I do this then I might as well wait 'till I get home
> and just harvest the lace off my mother's dress. I had hoped to save
> time and effort by finding yardage in the right motif but she has
> appliques all over her dress and the bottom hem is all the same lace.
> Somehow she got a HUGE stain right in the center of the skirt but the
> lace is all fine.
Have a think about it... It's not difficult, it just takes time and care.
show/hide quoted text
>
>
>>Yes, you cut it off carefully, using the body of the lace for the body
>>of the garment, and then re-apply the border. You do this to
>>accommodate the curved shape of the garment. The books show you how.
>>Stitches get lost in the complexity of the lace! :)
>
>
> Really? This lace has a border motif that's a good 6" wide at the
> widest point (like the veil). I had hoped to keep it intact like the
> veil. This requires more pondering... :)
It does. But get the books out of the library and have a look at the
techniques again.
show/hide quoted text
>
>
>
>>http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B4228=x&TI=10003&page=3
>>or this:
>>http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B4131=x&TI=10003&page=3
>
>
> These both look good. I'll keep my eyes peeled. I'm looking for
> something nice a slim, like this JCrew skirt:
> http://www.jcrew.com/images/newshots2004/main500/69340_NA6594_FA05_m.jpg
> (they had a different one I preferred but this one is good enough)
Nice skirt: the first pattern has something similar in it that could be
adapted for width very easily.
show/hide quoted text
>
>
>> And you could even make the bustier... ;)
>
>
> Ahh, yes. As the French say "J'ai d'autres chats à fouetter" (I have
> other cats to whip)* There's the flower girl dress, the guest book
> quilt, the tablecloths, etc. I have to apply my attention to where it
> is most effective and let fall the rest.
Very wise! :)
show/hide quoted text
>
>
>>I've just made that second skirt in a poly Duchess satin, and it works
>>very nicely: it's on my web site, under Further Adventures in Wedding
>>Gown Making.
>
>
> I was just at Bouchara drooling on their Silk Duchess Satin at 50% off.
> Stunning! Even still it was going to be over $100 in fabric for the
> skirt. I'd rather upgrade my flowers or my food than my silk, duponi is
> so pretty in its own way. I'll check it out for the skirt though!
Decisions, decisions... My motto for weddings is KEEP IT SIMPLE! For
mine I had two bridesmaids and the men all wore suits: I had
peachy/apricotty flowers, as did the bridesmaids, and that was all we
fussed about! The church and hotel reception were filled with generous
quantities of many coloured flowers, including sweet peas from the
garden, and the cake had fresh rosebuds my father grew in a tiny
arrangement my mum made on top. We had a 'sit down buffet' lunch for 62
people, and that was it! :) It's lasted 24 years (come the 17th of
this month!) and is going strong, so I think we got it right! :)
show/hide quoted text
>
> Thanks for your advice! I have to work out whether to buy the expensive
> lace before going home and getting the books or just count on using
> mom's lace and save the money. Decisions decisions...
In your place if I could afford it, I'd get the lace. If you later
decide to use your mum's, save the lace for a Christening gown, or a
daughter's wedding many years from now... :)
show/hide quoted text
>
> Thanks again,
> Charlotte
>
> **** Please note, no cats will be harmed in the making of my wedding
> gown. ****
>
No, but mine was when I made my dress! Kept getting under foot and
being stepped on, silly thing! He was so nosy, that cat... Long gone
now, my well remembered Marmalade...
The present two like silk scraps to nest on, the customer's velvet,
anything I leave on the cutting table, and especially, half-made quilts
with pins in!
--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
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Posted by charlotte on July 5, 2006, 9:23 am
Kate Dicey wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> That's good to know - but try cutting your lining first and using that
> as the toile: saves work! I did that with the one I made, and it was a
> bit too short, despite careful measuring, so we abandoned it for the
> skirt and I'll trim it level and make her a petticoat as an extra layer
> out of it. With poly lining at =A31.25m we can afford that! :)
Hmmm. Wasn't planning to line it. July can be so muggy. I'll have to
see how much shows...
show/hide quoted text
> Decisions, decisions... My motto for weddings is KEEP IT SIMPLE!
That is very much the plan. Backyard wedding, naturalist theme, no
attendants, "family style" meal (like Christmas dinner in the
summertime with more people).
Our anniversary will be close to yours - July 14.
show/hide quoted text
> In your place if I could afford it, I'd get the lace. If you later
> decide to use your mum's, save the lace for a Christening gown, or a
> daughter's wedding many years from now... :)
Oh, FDH will give me hell if he knows I'm adding to stash at that
price! He's already complaining about the size of the current stash. I
could make it happen the big question is, like the bustier, is that the
best choice for my resources? Arggghhhh! :)
(BTW, I found a bustier at the sales today - 29 Euro minus 30%, I don't
think I could do better in America for price and it even has ivory
peacock feathers embroidered on it. I plan to use the real feathers in
the boutonnieres so it is perfect and very French!)
-Charlotte
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