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Posted by FarmI on December 30, 2008, 6:12 pm
I need to make a hollow chest adjustment on a sleeveless, round necked, top
and I only know how to do that for a 'V' neck top. At least I think this is
the adjustment I need or perhaps it is a combination of both a hollow chest
and narrowing the neck. Some more info needed.
The neck is the right height and the fit at the armholes is right as are the
shoulders and the bust darts, which are in the armhole, also look good. The
back also looks OK (or will once I resew the upper end of the back seam to
take it in a wee bit more to allow for my rounded upper back - I always sew
a seam these days with a curve in the top but didnt' make enough of a curve
on this one yet - I've got it pinned out at the moment and it'll be fine).
Shoulder seams are sitting in the right position and run nicely from the
neck to the point of my (slightly forward) shoulders. No gaposis at either
front or back of armholes.
I'm beginning to sound like a mutant, when I read all that.
So, the neck needs about an inch and a quarter pinched out of it at centre
front and I can still get it off over my head with that amount taken out.
I've put an invisible zip on the side seam and that makes removal easier.
For this project, I'll put two small tucks at the neck and the garment will
be wearable for around home after I recut and apply the facing. Even having
done that 'rescue', I think there is still going to be too much fabric
between the neck and the bust when I make up the pattern again.
So, for future use of this pattern what do I do? For a 'V' neck, I'd fold a
dart in the paper pattern between the point of the 'V' and the shoulder seam
at the neck and then true up the neck edge of the pattern.
For a round neck adjustment, I'm wondering if all I need to do is to cut the
next version of this garment with the neck edge of the pattern up to three
quarters of an inch off the fold of the fabric after reshaping the neck line
prior to putting the pattern onto the fabric. Will that work?
Any thoughts please?
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Posted by betsy on December 31, 2008, 7:47 am
FarmI wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> I need to make a hollow chest adjustment on a sleeveless, round necked, top
> and I only know how to do that for a 'V' neck top. At least I think this is
> the adjustment I need or perhaps it is a combination of both a hollow chest
> and narrowing the neck. Some more info needed.
>
> The neck is the right height and the fit at the armholes is right as are the
> shoulders and the bust darts, which are in the armhole, also look good. The
> back also looks OK (or will once I resew the upper end of the back seam to
> take it in a wee bit more to allow for my rounded upper back - I always sew
> a seam these days with a curve in the top but didnt' make enough of a curve
> on this one yet - I've got it pinned out at the moment and it'll be fine).
> Shoulder seams are sitting in the right position and run nicely from the
> neck to the point of my (slightly forward) shoulders. No gaposis at either
> front or back of armholes.
>
> I'm beginning to sound like a mutant, when I read all that.
>
> So, the neck needs about an inch and a quarter pinched out of it at centre
> front and I can still get it off over my head with that amount taken out.
> I've put an invisible zip on the side seam and that makes removal easier.
>
> For this project, I'll put two small tucks at the neck and the garment will
> be wearable for around home after I recut and apply the facing. Even having
> done that 'rescue', I think there is still going to be too much fabric
> between the neck and the bust when I make up the pattern again.
>
> So, for future use of this pattern what do I do? For a 'V' neck, I'd fold a
> dart in the paper pattern between the point of the 'V' and the shoulder seam
> at the neck and then true up the neck edge of the pattern.
>
> For a round neck adjustment, I'm wondering if all I need to do is to cut the
> next version of this garment with the neck edge of the pattern up to three
> quarters of an inch off the fold of the fabric after reshaping the neck line
> prior to putting the pattern onto the fabric. Will that work?
>
> Any thoughts please?
>
>
Given your description of the fit issue, it seems likely that the fit
and neckline level is such that you could use the same method as you use
with a V neck, doing a bit of redrawing on the neckline to make the
shape nice.
If this doesn't work for you, here are some ramblings. I am not
professionally trained like some of the experts here, but I enjoy making
clothes that fit the wearer.
It seems that this kind of fitting challenge could be caused by a few
different issues, rounded back/hollow chest, larger than B cup bust or
poor pattern.
If you just put the pattern piece on the fabric with bottom on the
fold and the neckline 3/4" over the fold, you will loose progressively
less width all the way down. You can only afford to do this if you have
some extra room in the bust and a little extra room below the bust.
If you match the edge of the pattern piece to the fabric fold up to
the bustline (or a bit above), then have it start to overlap up to 3/4"
at the neckline, you will also need to fold a small tuck shortening the
length of the center front, to make the pattern piece sit on the fabric
correctly. You can test with the top you have already made and see if
you can afford to give up any of the front length. You gain a bit of
length by having the neckline start higher up on the curve anyway, so
this may work for you.
If you can't give up any length of fabric in the front, the fit issue
could be caused by a larger than B bust. In this case, you might slash
the dart instead of making a tuck to allow the pattern piece to overlap
the fold at the top front. This way you would end up with a wider dart.
Since too large a dart may not look great, a second dart from side seam
toward bust would be another option.
--Betsy
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Posted by FarmI on December 31, 2008, 11:58 pm
show/hide quoted text
> FarmI wrote:
>> I need to make a hollow chest adjustment on a sleeveless, round necked,
>> top and I only know how to do that for a 'V' neck top. At least I think
>> this is the adjustment I need or perhaps it is a combination of both a
>> hollow chest and narrowing the neck. Some more info needed.
(snip)
show/hide quoted text
> Given your description of the fit issue, it seems likely that the fit
> and neckline level is such that you could use the same method as you use
> with a V neck, doing a bit of redrawing on the neckline to make the shape
> nice.
> If this doesn't work for you, here are some ramblings. I am not
> professionally trained like some of the experts here, but I enjoy making
> clothes that fit the wearer.
:-)) the experts are busy drooling over books so I guess we keen amateurs
might sneak a conversation under the radar without them noticing.
show/hide quoted text
> It seems that this kind of fitting challenge could be caused by a few >
> different issues, rounded back/hollow chest, larger than B cup bust or
> poor pattern.
It's a Simplicity pattern and although I could blame the pattern, in all
fairness, I think it's my odd, aging body.
show/hide quoted text
> If you just put the pattern piece on the fabric with bottom on the fold
> and the neckline 3/4" over the fold, you will loose progressively less
> width all the way down. You can only afford to do this if you have some
> extra room in the bust and a little extra room below the bust.
Yep. I can see that and can afford to lose a bit.
show/hide quoted text
> If you match the edge of the pattern piece to the fabric fold up to the
> bustline (or a bit above), then have it start to overlap up to 3/4" at the
> neckline, you will also need to fold a small tuck shortening the length of
> the center front, to make the pattern piece sit on the fabric correctly.
> You can test with the top you have already made and see if you can afford
> to give up any of the front length. You gain a bit of length by having
> the neckline start higher up on the curve anyway, so > this may work for
> you.
> If you can't give up any length of fabric in the front, the fit issue
> could be caused by a larger than B bust. In this case, you might slash
> the dart instead of making a tuck to allow the pattern piece to overlap
> the fold at the top front. This way you would end up with a wider dart.
> Since too large a dart may not look great, a second dart from side seam
> toward bust would be another option.
Thanks for those suggestions. Ill finish off this version and then do a bit
of playing around. Might cut out a few fronts using the changes you
suggested and see what works out best. I can pin fit them to the back which
is now fitting well since I redid the top between the neck and the shoulder
blades and see how they'll look and then give the most promising a try.
Who'd a thunk that such a simple item of clothing could be such a pig's ear.
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Posted by Kay Lancaster on December 31, 2008, 5:42 pm
show/hide quoted text
> I need to make a hollow chest adjustment on a sleeveless, round necked, top
> and I only know how to do that for a 'V' neck top. At least I think this is
> the adjustment I need or perhaps it is a combination of both a hollow chest
> and narrowing the neck. Some more info needed.
If I were to view you from overhead, and you were standing, looking to the
right, your shoulders look more like ( than |, right? The first shape is
increasingly common due to what I call "keyboard slump", but it's also
sewing machine slump -- sort of the opposite of the shoulders back-chest out
military posture. We're not talking about pectus excavatum, right?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pectus_excavatum
If keyboard slump is the issue, I have two fixes for it, one PT and one
patternmaking.
The PT fix is what I call "hanging around in doorways" -- for which you need
a narrowish doorway, the ability to raise your arms to shoulder level, and
some patience. A month of this exercise (which doesn't hurt but is slightly
boring) will often bring the shoulders back an inch or so. Even for us
old codgers. http://www.nismat.org/traintip/swimmershld -- the position of the
stretch is shown in the second photo. Put your hands up in the "I surrender"
position against a door frame. Take a step forward with one foot and feel the
stretch across the upper chest at slightly above the sleeve notch positions.
Hold that for 30 seconds 5-10 times a day... makes a good time to gather
your thoughts. I've just gotten in the habit of doing the doorframe
stretch every time I leave the bathroom, because the door is just the right
show/hide quoted text
width. <g> I do one stretch taking a step forward with the right foot, then
a second one with the left foot taking the step. How much of a step? Enough
to feel a bit of stretch; not enough to feel pain. 6-9" for most folks.
If you're sore the next day, take a smaller step.
The patternmaking fix is to simply make up a muslin of your basic pattern,
and mark the crossgrain on the upper chest and CF. Baste the side seams
and pin the shoulders. Get a friend to smooth the excess fabric in the upper
chest area up and toward the point of the shoulders, keeping the center line
straight and the crossgrain straight and level. Repin the shoulder seams.
The armscye is now not going to match up with the back armscye, and the front
neckline may not match either. Mark in the new shoulder seam, and unpin.
Transfer the new shoulder seam markings to the pattern. Fill in the neckline
with extra tissue, as needed. Draw in the seamline on the armscye, from
shoulder to side seam. Cut along the armscye seamline from shoulder line to
side seam, and swing the seam allowance section over (pivoting from the side
seam/armscye intersection) to match with the back armscye position. Tape
it down and you're done.
It sounds like you're making a basic pattern and you intend to change the
neckline to vary it. Remember that if you drop the neckline, you will need
to take a "patternmaker's pinch" out of the upper chest to compensate.
Kay
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Posted by FarmI on January 1, 2009, 12:42 am
show/hide quoted text
>> I need to make a hollow chest adjustment on a sleeveless, round necked,
>> top
>> and I only know how to do that for a 'V' neck top. At least I think this
>> is
>> the adjustment I need or perhaps it is a combination of both a hollow
>> chest
>> and narrowing the neck. Some more info needed.
> If I were to view you from overhead, and you were standing, looking to the
> right, your shoulders look more like ( than |, right?
:-(( Sadly, yes, but it's high up where my dowager's hump is obviously
going to form in the not too distant future. Across my shoulder blades, I'm
still flat.
The first shape is
show/hide quoted text
> increasingly common due to what I call "keyboard slump", but it's also
> sewing machine slump -- sort of the opposite of the shoulders back-chest
> out
> military posture. We're not talking about pectus excavatum, right?
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pectus_excavatum
No, not that pronounced at all, thank heavens.
In addition, I've had a radical mastectomy on one side and I dunno what they
do to achieve such a result, but standing naked in front of the mirror (and
ignoring the scarring) it looks like the rib cage of a starved person. Not
an ounce of spare underskin fat and just bone very, very visible through the
skin and this sunken, scooped look proceeds up to about 2 inches from the
natural neckline on that side.
show/hide quoted text
> If keyboard slump is the issue, I have two fixes for it, one PT and one
> patternmaking.
> The PT fix is what I call "hanging around in doorways" -- for which you
> need
> a narrowish doorway, the ability to raise your arms to shoulder level, and
> some patience. A month of this exercise (which doesn't hurt but is
> slightly
> boring) will often bring the shoulders back an inch or so. Even for us
> old codgers. http://www.nismat.org/traintip/swimmershld
Ah! I already do that one! I do it because of a problem with muscle
tightening around the chest area brought on as a result of the breast
surgery.
show/hide quoted text
> I've just gotten in the habit of doing the doorframe
> stretch every time I leave the bathroom,
Now that's a great idea. Might adopt that as my one and only new Year's
resolution.
show/hide quoted text
> The patternmaking fix is to simply make up a muslin of your basic pattern,
> and mark the crossgrain on the upper chest and CF. Baste the side seams
> and pin the shoulders. Get a friend to smooth the excess fabric in the
> upper
> chest area up and toward the point of the shoulders, keeping the center
> line
> straight and the crossgrain straight and level. Repin the shoulder seams.
> The armscye is now not going to match up with the back armscye, and the
> front
> neckline may not match either. Mark in the new shoulder seam, and unpin.
> Transfer the new shoulder seam markings to the pattern. Fill in the
> neckline
> with extra tissue, as needed. Draw in the seamline on the armscye, from
> shoulder to side seam. Cut along the armscye seamline from shoulder line
> to
> side seam, and swing the seam allowance section over (pivoting from the
> side
> seam/armscye intersection) to match with the back armscye position. Tape
> it down and you're done.
If I understand you correctly, I'd effectively be removing the excess fabric
at both the shoulder seam and the armhole? Or did I interpret you wrongly?
I was lying in bed last night wondering to myself if perhaps the shoulder
and armhole area were where I might get rid of the excess and then trueing
up the seams.
show/hide quoted text
> It sounds like you're making a basic pattern and you intend to change the
> neckline to vary it. Remember that if you drop the neckline, you will need
> to take a "patternmaker's pinch" out of the upper chest to compensate.
It's not really a desire to change the neckline - it's more of a tactic to
'rescue' the garment.
This current version is made out of a bit of stash for which I had no plans
so I was treating it as sacrificial if it was a total dud. In fact it will
work with just to two little tucks at the neck and a newly cut neck facings
to take account of less fabric at both the back because of the increased
seam and the two front tucks. It's not going to be a 'Sunday best' top, but
certainly good enough to wear in public and not have to hang my head in
shame. :-)).
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> and I only know how to do that for a 'V' neck top. At least I think this is
> the adjustment I need or perhaps it is a combination of both a hollow chest
> and narrowing the neck. Some more info needed.
>
> The neck is the right height and the fit at the armholes is right as are the
> shoulders and the bust darts, which are in the armhole, also look good. The
> back also looks OK (or will once I resew the upper end of the back seam to
> take it in a wee bit more to allow for my rounded upper back - I always sew
> a seam these days with a curve in the top but didnt' make enough of a curve
> on this one yet - I've got it pinned out at the moment and it'll be fine).
> Shoulder seams are sitting in the right position and run nicely from the
> neck to the point of my (slightly forward) shoulders. No gaposis at either
> front or back of armholes.
>
> I'm beginning to sound like a mutant, when I read all that.
>
> So, the neck needs about an inch and a quarter pinched out of it at centre
> front and I can still get it off over my head with that amount taken out.
> I've put an invisible zip on the side seam and that makes removal easier.
>
> For this project, I'll put two small tucks at the neck and the garment will
> be wearable for around home after I recut and apply the facing. Even having
> done that 'rescue', I think there is still going to be too much fabric
> between the neck and the bust when I make up the pattern again.
>
> So, for future use of this pattern what do I do? For a 'V' neck, I'd fold a
> dart in the paper pattern between the point of the 'V' and the shoulder seam
> at the neck and then true up the neck edge of the pattern.
>
> For a round neck adjustment, I'm wondering if all I need to do is to cut the
> next version of this garment with the neck edge of the pattern up to three
> quarters of an inch off the fold of the fabric after reshaping the neck line
> prior to putting the pattern onto the fabric. Will that work?
>
> Any thoughts please?
>
>