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Posted by BEI Design on March 17, 2008, 1:23 am
Ursula Schrader wrote:
> "BEI Design" ...
> >
> > What Kate said. ;-) The *lining* is a beautiful
> > purple bridal-weight satin. Each pattern piece of the
> > velvet will be mounted to a corresponding piece of hair
> > canvas, then the combined pieces will be assembled to
> > make a vest which both beautiful and strong.
>
> Hello Beverly,
Hi Ursula! ;-)
>
> good to hear that you're better and that your project is
> turning out so well. I've got a question about this
> interfacing (the hair canvas is what you'd call an
> interfacing, right?). If you cut it, do you cut it with
> seam allowance or without. I just thought that, since the
> material is rather stiff, it might influence the way the
> pieces go together.
Yes, it's "interfacing", although it is mounted to every
piece of the vest as an *underlining* would be. A
traditional interlining might be applied to only the center
front, and perhaps the shoulder area. The hair canvas is
there to give additional strength to the fashion fabric, in
this case cotton velvet. Since this vest is made for
competitive dancing it needs to withstand quite a bit of
strain, and the hair canvas provides that additional
strength/body. I will cut each piece of hair canvas the
same size as the velvet, then roll each pair of pieces over
a large dowel (to simulate the round body which will
eventually be in the garment) and baste the two pieces
together at the 1/2" line, trimming the small excess hair
canvas on each piece. Then when I join the pattern pieces
together at the 5/8" seam, the hair canvas is secured a
second time and takes most of the strain, because it is
slightly smaller than the velvet. Make sense?
> U. - eager to learn from those with more experience.
I used to have a web site with pictures of the silk organza
underlining I did on DD's wedding gown, but I think Comcast
has eliminated it. I'll check.
Beverly
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Posted by BEI Design on March 17, 2008, 1:28 am
BEI Design wrote:
> I used to have a web site with pictures of the silk
> organza underlining I did on DD's wedding gown, but I
> think Comcast has eliminated it. I'll check.
Sorry for replying to my own message, but I did find the
pictures I was think about:
http://home.comcast.net/~beidesign/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-1532877.html
and
http://home.comcast.net/~beidesign/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-1532878.html
Those don't show the technique for rolling the two pieces
over a dowel, but it's in my description. After the two are
rolled, the underlining protrudes past the fashion fabric
just a bit, and I trim it off before basting the two pieces
together.
Beverly
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Posted by Ursula Schrader on March 17, 2008, 3:40 am
"BEI Design" wrote...
>
> Those don't show the technique for rolling the two pieces over a dowel,
> but it's in my description. After the two are rolled, the underlining
> protrudes past the fashion fabric just a bit, and I trim it off before
> basting the two pieces together.
Never mind the pics, if one has to do it, it's all a matter of trial and
error until the hands have learned how to do it properly. I guess it's the
old horse-to-water thing. ;-) However, the whole thing makes sense: If you
have two pieces of exactly the same size and you put them around the same
round form (e.g. body of bride) then the one closer to the body has a
smaller radius and will thus protrude at the sides. Hah, that's geometry, I
used to be quite good at that (the only part of maths I was good at,
actually).
I'm a little confused about 'underlining' and 'interfacing', though. What is
the difference? I didn't find any translation for underlining, only one for
interfacing. It seems that there is no difference between those two in
German, but then, there must be, right? After all, good tailoring is
non-verbal and international. ;-)
U.
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Posted by BEI Design on March 17, 2008, 3:55 pm
Ursula Schrader wrote:
> I'm a little confused about 'underlining' and
> 'interfacing', though. What is the difference? I didn't
> find any translation for underlining, only one for
> interfacing. It seems that there is no difference between
> those two in German, but then, there must be, right?
> After all, good tailoring is non-verbal and
> international. ;-)
I'm not sure whether your question is asking the difference
in *fabric* or *technique*. I'll give you my best guess.
In the case of *technique*, for "underlining" one can use
almost everything from silk organza (for delicate fabrics,
like underlining bridal satin) to hair canvas (for giving
*shape* to men's tailored jackets, and in my case,
additional *strength* to a dancer's velvet vest).
Underlining is applying an additional layer of fabric to an
*entire garment piece*, sometimes accompanied by "padding
stitches" to create curves and shaping, for instance to the
roll of a lapel.
There are some illustrations and information here:
http://books.google.com/books?id=6xibDlL6TtoC&pg=PA93&lpg=PA93&dq=tailor's+padding+stitch&source=web&ots=yy-iFChssi&sig=l-zWLXkOX4erCoMG3okDmj_eA5c&hl=en
"Interfacing" is called for in particular areas of a
garment, to provide body under buttonholes, additional body
to hems, necklines, etc. Interfacing is usually a specific
fabric, woven or non-woven, often but not always, bondable.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interfacing
I'm sure Teri will be able to provide some better
definitions. my sewing was learned over many years of trial
and error, I've never had professional instructions, and
never learned the technical names for many of the techniques
I use.
Beverly
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Posted by Ursula Schrader on March 20, 2008, 4:08 am
"BEI Design" wrote...
> Ursula Schrader wrote:
>
>> I'm a little confused about 'underlining' and
>> 'interfacing'... <snip>
>
> I'm not sure whether your question is asking the difference in *fabric* or
> *technique*. I'll give you my best guess.
I wasn't, either. Sorry, it's just that I'm such a small light when it comes
to sewing and here I am, trying to play witht he big girls, and not even in
my native language. This accounts for many a stupid question. Unfortunately
(or fortunately, since I like you all very much), I haven't found anything
similar to this group in German, at least not on the usenet.
<snip>
I will mull your reply over carefully, just as I do with the sloper blocks
and may come back some time for more info. Or perhaps I'll just make you
check if I understood correctly. Anyway, thanks a lot for the trouble you
took explaining. And I really love to lear, it's just that with a teething
baby and the occasional migraine it takes a little longer to sink in. I hope
you're not cross about my delayed response.
U.
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