Lycra...skipped stitches
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Subject Author Date
Lycra...skipped stitches Cheryl 02-24-2008
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Posted by Kay Lancaster on February 24, 2008, 10:42 pm
> I'm sewing lightweight lycra and getting skipped stitches in my

Ballpoint needle and stabilizer under and possibly over the seam line.
Paper will do, but washaway stabilizer works better. I'm assuming you're
dealing with a nylon or poly lycra knit, as cotton lycra knits typically
handle better than that. If you're dealing with a lycra blend woven,
the needle should be a universal or sharp.


Posted by Ron Anderson on February 25, 2008, 5:06 pm
> I'm sewing lightweight lycra and getting skipped stitches in my
> seamlines. I've tried every needle type from woven to ball point,
> needles for stretch fabrics, tried my teflon foot, my even feed
> foot...all terrible. About the best so far is something called a "Q"
> foot from Sears...only 2 skips in about 8 inches of stitching. I've
> been sewing a lot of lycra but have always had to go to my serger to
> get the job done. However, using the serger, I can't leave a seam
> allowance. Any ideas on how I can get my regular machine to stitch
> without all the skipping?
> Cheryl

My guess is you are experiencing flagging. That is then the needle pushes
the fabric a bit down in the needle hole and then closes the loop so the
hook can not pick up the thread.
Try uses the left or right needle positions or the straight stitch plate is
you have one. A good quality, and I see from your posts you are using
Schmetz, needle in ball point or stretch even better needle.
Many old machines balk at that kind of work.


--

Ron Anderson A1 Sewing Machine
18 Dingman Rd., Sand Lake, NY 12153
518-469-5133
http://www.a1sewingmachine.com



Posted by AK&DStrohl on February 25, 2008, 7:52 pm
Cheryl.
I googled sewing thread sizing and got a bunch of sites.
http://www.gunzetal.com/ETechnical1.htm

Now, if the spools of thread would just tell us which system they are using
then we could be sure.
AK in PA

>> I'm sewing lightweight lycra and getting skipped stitches in my
>> seamlines. I've tried every needle type from woven to ball point,
>> needles for stretch fabrics, tried my teflon foot, my even feed
>> foot...all terrible. About the best so far is something called a "Q"
>> foot from Sears...only 2 skips in about 8 inches of stitching. I've
>> been sewing a lot of lycra but have always had to go to my serger to
>> get the job done. However, using the serger, I can't leave a seam
>> allowance. Any ideas on how I can get my regular machine to stitch
>> without all the skipping?
>> Cheryl
>
> My guess is you are experiencing flagging. That is then the needle pushes
> the fabric a bit down in the needle hole and then closes the loop so the
> hook can not pick up the thread.
> Try uses the left or right needle positions or the straight stitch plate
> is you have one. A good quality, and I see from your posts you are using
> Schmetz, needle in ball point or stretch even better needle.
> Many old machines balk at that kind of work.
>
>
> --
>
> Ron Anderson A1 Sewing Machine
> 18 Dingman Rd., Sand Lake, NY 12153
> 518-469-5133
> http://www.a1sewingmachine.com
>



Posted by Cheryl on February 26, 2008, 9:02 am
> Cheryl.
> I googled sewing thread sizing and got a bunch of sites.http://www.gunzeta=
l.com/ETechnical1.htm
>
> Now, if the spools of thread would just tell us which system they are usin=
g
> then we could be sure.
> AK in PA
>
>
>
>
>

> >> I'm sewing lightweight lycra and getting skipped stitches in my
> >> seamlines. =A0I've tried every needle type from woven to ball point,
> >> needles for stretch fabrics, tried my teflon foot, my even feed
> >> foot...all terrible. =A0About the best so far is something called a "Q"=

> >> foot from Sears...only 2 skips in about 8 inches of stitching. =A0I've
> >> been sewing a lot of lycra but have always had to go to my serger to
> >> get the job done. =A0However, using the serger, I can't leave a seam
> >> allowance. =A0Any ideas on how I can get my regular machine to stitch
> >> without all the skipping?
> >> =A0Cheryl
>
> > My guess is you are experiencing flagging. That is then the needle pushe=
s
> > the fabric a bit down in the needle hole and then closes the loop so the=

> > hook can not pick up the thread.
> > Try uses the left or right needle positions or the straight stitch plate=

> > is you have one. A good quality, and I see from your posts you are using=

> > Schmetz, needle in ball point or stretch even better needle.
> > Many old machines balk at that kind of work.
>
> > --
>
> > Ron Anderson A1 Sewing Machine
> > 18 Dingman Rd., Sand Lake, NY 12153
> > 518-469-5133
> >http://www.a1sewingmachine.com- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Ron:
The trouble is there is no notation on the spools of thread that
could indicate the weight. Only the length. I'm at a loss here.
Cheryl

Posted by Kay Lancaster on February 26, 2008, 5:42 pm
Thread sizing is a real morass. The stuff commonly available to us who sew
at home is roughly equivalent to 40 wt cotton -- that's the usual "dressmaker
thread". "Lingerie thread" or "Extra fine thread" is usually about equivalent
to 60 wt cotton. Embroidery threads can range from very fine (70 wt is a
bobbin thread for embroidery) to quite heavy, about 20 wt, in my experience.

More here:
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/thread_sizes.html

Kay


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