Making Neckties

Posted by Sparafucile on April 14, 2009, 11:24 pm

Hi everyone,

        I hope you all had a nice holiday!

        Well, I've made six camp shirts now, and think I've gotten my sewing
skills down, so I need a new project.

        I'd like to make neckties - hopefully ones that tie, dimple and drape
like those that are $75 to $100 retail. I've ordered David Coffin's
booklet and a vintage pattern. I live just outside NYC so I can buy
the silk and interfacing there in the Garment District.

        Any hints, tips, tricks or resources that anyone can suggest?

        Does one use Hymo Canvas or Hair Cloth (or something else) for the
interfacing? Any web-sites for the silk?

        And if you'd like to see my shirt collection go to:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2002096&id=1148672671&l=22a871c86f

        Thanks, and have a great day!

--
Ciao,

Serge

                ´I love cats because I take pleasure in my home; and little by
little, the cats become its visible soul.¡
                                Jean Cocteau, 1889-1963

        4/14/2009 11:17:46 PM

Posted by Sharon Hays on April 15, 2009, 7:34 am

Sparafucile wrote:

show/hide quoted text

The shirts look marvelous, Serge. Very nice work! Good luck with the ties.
That's one thing I've never attempted, so I have no advice for you. It's
been discussed here a few times over the years so I know there are folks
here that know how to make them well. ;) Just be a little patient for
your answer. I think quite a few folks are staying off the group awhile
and waiting for the trolls to go back to school or at least away from
here. :(

Sharon
--
Never try to teach a pig to sing. It's a waste of time and just annoys the
pig.

Posted by on April 15, 2009, 1:17 pm

Dear Serge,

Neckties was one of the first projects my accessories students made in
class. We used old ties that were dirty, had holes, but were the type
and shape that the individual student wanted. We took them apart,
saved the the wool fleece from the inside because we are in a rural
area and cannot find this type of fleece. You probably won't have the
same problem, but if you do, the wool fleece in the ties is just the
right size. Observe how the tie is put together--that's just how you
should do it. Carefully press the facings at the ends of the tie, and
press the tie out flat. When you place it on your new fabric, make
sure that the grain is exactly the same as the sacrificed tie. The
facings can be cut from rayon or silk lining fabric. I prefer silk.
Or if they're in good condition, you can use the facings you removed.
Sew the facings to the tie ends. Do not sew the sides of the
facings. Do not trim, but miter the ends, just as the original tie
was mitered. Turn the facings right side out and carefully press.
Next, with the right side facing your ironing board (or other padded
surface), place the fleece on the wrong side, just as it was in the
original. Press in 3/8 inch on one long side of the tie. Fold over
the other side the entire length of the tie, including the faced
ends. At this point, you want to make sure that the ends are perfect
points before you press. When you're satisfied, press down the
unfinished edge the full length, then fold the other end over it and
press it. The finished (pressed under) edge should be centered on the
wrong under side of the tie. You can pin now, along the center of the
under side of the tie. As you can see, this is more a pressing
operation than it is a sewing operation. It will take you less than
an hour to complete the tie. Now, hand sew with a slip stitch this
center seam, occasionally catching the fleece to hold it in place.
You're done. My students used all sorts of fabrics for their ties,
not just tie fabric, which is impossible to find anywhere around
here. Have fun!!

Posted by Kay Lancaster on April 16, 2009, 5:42 pm

show/hide quoted text

The correct interfacing's going to be the tough part. I haven't seen any
of the nice lambswool for years.

Here's Kathleen Fasanella's post on tie making, by sewing machine:
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how_to_make_mens_ties/

Kay

Posted by on April 16, 2009, 7:54 pm

Dear Kay,

I've had expert sewists give up after trying to make a tie with a
machine. I think it has something to do with working with bias, and
having to get perfect points to have a quality tie. Good ties are
still made the way I described above. They are even made with a chain
stitch machine so that if a favorite (very expensive) tie is soiled,
it can be taken apart and cleaned. The lamb's wool is a problem--
that's why I had my students re-use the interfacing from the old tie.
If it can't be found, there is a thin poly fleece that can be used,
and holds up just as well as the wool.

Teri

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