Marking through multiple layers of fabric

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Marking through multiple layers of fabric Bill Boyce 06-14-2008
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Posted by Bill Boyce on June 14, 2008, 2:47 pm
When having to make a batch of units from a single pattern, like you, I
stack a number of layers of cloth beneath a cutting template and use a
heavy duty rotary cutter to cut them all at once. Depending on material,
4 layers is usual, maybe 5. Pretty standard procedure for small batch
production.

I have to mark specific locations on each piece. Those locations on
the edge are easy to mark: I just snip through multiple edges in the
seam allowance and cut thru all at once.

Those multiple locations in the interior of the pattern are giving me
some trouble, though. I'm not too good at using tailor's tacks yet, as
far as technique is concerned and getting uniform results. I'm ok on two
layers, but 4 or 5 gets hairy, somehow.

Is there a trick you may have using t.tacks? Or maybe a better solution
altogether? Laying out the locations on each piece after separation
gives poorer accuracy yet, besides being tedious.

Thanks for any help.

JPBill

Posted by Olwyn Mary on June 14, 2008, 3:19 pm
Bill Boyce wrote:
> When having to make a batch of units from a single pattern, like you, I
> stack a number of layers of cloth beneath a cutting template and use a
> heavy duty rotary cutter to cut them all at once. Depending on material,
> 4 layers is usual, maybe 5. Pretty standard procedure for small batch
> production.
>
> I have to mark specific locations on each piece. Those locations on the
> edge are easy to mark: I just snip through multiple edges in the seam
> allowance and cut thru all at once.
>
> Those multiple locations in the interior of the pattern are giving me
> some trouble, though. I'm not too good at using tailor's tacks yet, as
> far as technique is concerned and getting uniform results. I'm ok on two
> layers, but 4 or 5 gets hairy, somehow.
>
> Is there a trick you may have using t.tacks? Or maybe a better solution
> altogether? Laying out the locations on each piece after separation
> gives poorer accuracy yet, besides being tedious.
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> JPBill

Might using a curved needle help? I understand it takes a while to
master, but it might solve your problem, if, indeed, it is a question of
keeping all the layers level while you poke the needle through them

Olwyn Mary in New Orleans
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

Posted by Emily Bengston on June 14, 2008, 3:36 pm



On 6/14/08 1:47 PM, in article cnU4k.63$JK5.28@newsfe07.lga, "Bill Boyce"

> When having to make a batch of units from a single pattern, like you, I
> stack a number of layers of cloth beneath a cutting template and use a
> heavy duty rotary cutter to cut them all at once. Depending on material,
> 4 layers is usual, maybe 5. Pretty standard procedure for small batch
> production.
>
> I have to mark specific locations on each piece. Those locations on
> the edge are easy to mark: I just snip through multiple edges in the
> seam allowance and cut thru all at once.
>
> Those multiple locations in the interior of the pattern are giving me
> some trouble, though. I'm not too good at using tailor's tacks yet, as
> far as technique is concerned and getting uniform results. I'm ok on two
> layers, but 4 or 5 gets hairy, somehow.
>
> Is there a trick you may have using t.tacks? Or maybe a better solution
> altogether? Laying out the locations on each piece after separation
> gives poorer accuracy yet, besides being tedious.
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> JPBill

Maybe a straight pin in the designated circle; then carefully holding onto
the pin, carefully place a pin in the same spot as each layer of fabric
starting with the bottom, is removed. I've done that when cutting outfits
for 2 nieces at the same time. It works perfectly, if you are careful. But
this has to be done one pin at a time.
HTH,
Emily


Posted by AK&DStrohl on June 14, 2008, 6:51 pm

>
>> Is there a trick you may have using t.tacks? Or maybe a better solution
>> altogether? Laying out the locations on each piece after separation
>> gives poorer accuracy yet, besides being tedious.
>> JPBill
>
> Maybe a straight pin in the designated circle; then carefully holding onto
> the pin, carefully place a pin in the same spot as each layer of fabric
> starting with the bottom, is removed. I've done that when cutting outfits
> for 2 nieces at the same time. It works perfectly, if you are careful.
> But
> this has to be done one pin at a time.
> HTH,
> Emily



I ditto this method. I hate tailor tacks with a vengence anymore. Stick a
pin at the mark. Use chalk, air/water soluable ink, soap. T-tacks take way
too much time and effort.

AK in PA



Posted by Kay Lancaster on June 14, 2008, 10:42 pm

For dart points, just stab through the point of the dart with a pin, then fold
back each layer and mark the pin's location with chalk.

Or move 1/2" (or 1 cm) back from the dart tip. Use a screw punch to make a
small hole. (Or an awl. Or a sewing machine needle, pulled completely
through the fabric). To sew, line up the edge notches of the dart, sew to
1/2"/1cm beyond the marked point. (Remember high school geometry -- two
points determine a line, so you don't have to mark the entire dart!)

For pockets and similar internal placement lines, mark with chalk using the
pin technique.

For vast numbers of internal placement marks needed (like a stack of 60o
diamonds that are going to become a tumbling blocks quilt), make a template
of thin plastic with the mark in the correct spot. Line up over each piece
and pounce with chalk (or cornstarch).

What's your problem with tailor's tacks? Do they slide right through? Try
using elastic thread or serger tail -- these both have enough elasticity
and friction to hang on.

Kay


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