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Posted by Bill Boyce on June 15, 2008, 10:05 pm
Kay Lancaster wrote:
> For dart points, just stab through the point of the dart with a pin, then fold
> back each layer and mark the pin's location with chalk.
>
> Or move 1/2" (or 1 cm) back from the dart tip. Use a screw punch to make a
> small hole. (Or an awl. Or a sewing machine needle, pulled completely
> through the fabric). To sew, line up the edge notches of the dart, sew to
> 1/2"/1cm beyond the marked point. (Remember high school geometry -- two
> points determine a line, so you don't have to mark the entire dart!)
>
> For pockets and similar internal placement lines, mark with chalk using the
> pin technique.
>
> For vast numbers of internal placement marks needed (like a stack of 60o
> diamonds that are going to become a tumbling blocks quilt), make a template
> of thin plastic with the mark in the correct spot. Line up over each piece
> and pounce with chalk (or cornstarch).
>
> What's your problem with tailor's tacks? Do they slide right through? Try
> using elastic thread or serger tail -- these both have enough elasticity
> and friction to hang on.
>
> Kay
>
Thanks to you, Kay, and others who responded. I'm experimenting with the
various techniques and making some progress. I had been using silk
thread for the tacks on recommendation from a book specifically because
it is slick, but your trick of using elastic thread gives it more bite
and doesn't pull out by accident. My pattern pieces have many, many
points to mark and one slips by me once in a while otherwise.
JPBill
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Posted by gjones2938 on June 16, 2008, 1:32 pm
Dear JPBill,
Just stick a pin in the point, i.e., a dart. then mark each layer on
the wrong wide with a disappearing pen. Don't try to draw a dart,
however, it will come out too fat at the point and leave a dimple.
Just mark the widest part of the dart, and the disappearing point.
For pocket placement or other symbol markings, the disappearing pen is
the easiest. You can also use a sharpened piece of dry soap for dark
colors.
Teri
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Posted by BEI Design on June 16, 2008, 4:52 pm
gjones2938 wrote:
> Dear JPBill,
>
> Just stick a pin in the point, i.e., a dart. then mark
> each layer on the wrong wide with a disappearing pen.
> Don't try to draw a dart, however, it will come out too
> fat at the point and leave a dimple. Just mark the widest
> part of the dart, and the disappearing point. For pocket
> placement or other symbol markings, the disappearing pen
> is the easiest. You can also use a sharpened piece of
> dry soap for dark colors.
I use disappearing marker (water soluble or just plain
disappearing) for aligning machine embroidery, but I know
I'm going to finish that project right away. For garment
sewing, I sometimes cut and mark, but then don't complete
for several days (or weeks), and I would be afraid that
disappearing marker would disappear in the interim. I
always use tailor's chalk for marking, I have several colors
on hand, as well as saving soap slivers for that purpose.
Beverly
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Posted by Amitaibu on June 27, 2008, 7:00 pm
On Jun 16, 11:52=A0pm, "BEI Design"
> gjones2938 wrote:
> > Dear JPBill,
>
> > Just stick a pin in the point, i.e., a dart. =A0then mark
> > each layer on the wrong wide with a disappearing pen.
> > Don't try to draw a dart, however, it will come out too
> > fat at the point and leave a dimple. Just mark the widest
> > part of the dart, and the disappearing point. For pocket
> > placement or other symbol markings, the disappearing pen
> > is the easiest. =A0You can also use a sharpened piece of
> > dry soap for dark colors.
>
> I use disappearing marker (water soluble or just plain
> disappearing) for aligning machine embroidery, but I know
> I'm going to finish that project right away. =A0For garment
> sewing, I sometimes cut and mark, but then don't complete
> for several days (or weeks), and I would be afraid that
> disappearing marker would disappear in the interim. =A0I
> always use tailor's chalk for marking, I have several colors
> on hand, as well as saving soap slivers for that purpose.
>
> Beverly
Just a word of caution on disappearing ink - it's always good to test
it before. I saw several times when it, well... didn't disappear
properly :/
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Posted by BEI Design on June 27, 2008, 7:42 pm
Amitaibu wrote:
> On Jun 16, 11:52 pm, "BEI Design"
> > gjones2938 wrote:
> > > Dear JPBill,
> >
> > > Just stick a pin in the point, i.e., a dart. then mark
> > > each layer on the wrong wide with a disappearing pen.
> > > Don't try to draw a dart, however, it will come out
> > > too
> > > fat at the point and leave a dimple. Just mark the
> > > widest
> > > part of the dart, and the disappearing point. For
> > > pocket placement or other symbol markings, the
> > > disappearing pen
> > > is the easiest. You can also use a sharpened piece of
> > > dry soap for dark colors.
> >
> > I use disappearing marker (water soluble or just plain
> > disappearing) for aligning machine embroidery, but I
> > know
> > I'm going to finish that project right away. For garment
> > sewing, I sometimes cut and mark, but then don't
> > complete
> > for several days (or weeks), and I would be afraid that
> > disappearing marker would disappear in the interim. I
> > always use tailor's chalk for marking, I have several
> > colors
> > on hand, as well as saving soap slivers for that
> > purpose.
> >
> > Beverly
>
> Just a word of caution on disappearing ink - it's always
> good to test it before. I saw several times when it,
> well... didn't disappear properly :/
The disappearing markers I use are products made for marking
alignment for machine embroidery. Not actually "ink', more
like a felt-tip marker or soft pastel pencil. I have yet to
run across one which did not disappear, either spontaneously
or when water was applied, depending on the application.
For most garment sewing, I use tailor's chalk, especially on
the "inside" marks. For pockets and other external pieces I
try to use the smallest possible mark, and place it just
*inside* the actual alignment mark so that it will be
covered after the piece is sewn.
Beverly
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