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Posted by Daisy on January 11, 2006, 4:00 pm
I use Betzina's Fast Fit for most of my fitting problems - and I have
a series of them (unfortunately). I am short (and shortwaisted) have
a short neck that comes forward a bit, fleshy shoulders and a large
bust. My back is slsightly rounded at the top but otherwise a standard
womens size (14 in European sizing). I am not young, so have the
classic middle-age spread.
I have adjusted my patterns using the Fast Fit techniques and have
some success with that. But I still get the vertical folds coming
from the inner shoulder and sometimes even more gap in a neckline than
I wuld like. Taking up the shoulder at the front neck edge
interferes with the back neckline which has to be adjusted for the
fleshy shoulders.
I have a dress form that I have opened to the largest size, but it is
not doing the job properly. I am not entirely sure how to pad this
out properly (I have all the padding equipment necessary).
I am wondering if I should experiment with padding and use a top that
I know fits me properly? Most of these are stretch and my major
problems are with stable fabric tops. I can't use darts from the
waist as well as side front darts because this only exaggerates the
"love handles".
I would love to receive any suggestions or advice about this problem.
It might help to say I am 5 feet tall and weigh 62 kilos. (I can't
convert these days because I have new digital scales! I am of the
tube shape - my waist size is only about 3 cm smaller than my hips,
which are relatively high because I have long legs for my height.
I sound like a freak, I know. I can never buy ready-to-wear clothes
because nothing ever fits.
Cheers and thanks
Daisy
Carthage demands an explanation for this insolence!
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Posted by Kitty In Somerset, PA on January 15, 2006, 4:17 pm
Hi Daisy,
I'm no expert, and I have almost all the opposite problems from you
except that I have rounded shoulders and a forward placed neck which
seems to be what is causing your gaposis. If I am wrong please
correct me.
I have a couple ideas which might help, so I will toss them out for
what they are worth. IF I were you, I would start with the cheapest
fabric I could find in the weight you want to use, muslin or Gingham
are classic for wovens. make up a copy of the pattern in your test
fabric With at least a short sleeve if you intend to use them, since
this changes the way my shirts fit, then fit the front with darts.
Even darts to the neck area. After it is fitted, you can move the
darts to whereever they look best using paper then cut out the fashion
fabric.
PS, if you are trying to make a body double, you may have to pad out
the shoulders at the front to create the hollow in the chest that I
believe goes along with the rolled shoulder and forward thrust neck.
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Posted by on January 16, 2006, 11:22 am
Dear Daisy,
We sound like the same size and body type, except that you are an inch
taller than I.
Please take the time to make up a muslin each time you use a new
pattern. It's not a waste of time--every professional designer makes
dozens of muslins before cutting fashion fabric.
Don't put in facings or hems, and use basting stitches to construct.
Then, with a helper, if available, pinch, slash, pin out--whatever is
necessary to make the garment fit YOU, not the dress form. When you're
happy with the fit, leave the corrections in place, and carefully
remove the seams, and press the pieces flat. Use these muslin pieces
for your pattern. If you need facings to accommodate the new shapes,
simply trace the cut edges, following the lines, including seam
allowances. Measure over 2-1/2 inches from the cut lines, and draw the
opposite edges of the facings.
In one way, we are fortunate about darts. As you know, darts are used
to remove excess fabric from the waist, caused by cutting a rectangle
for the piece that accommodates the hips or bust. I'm able to make a
straight skirt with a piece of fabric 1-1/2 inches wider that my hips,
plus seam allowances and hems. I then turn over the waist and insrt
elastic--practically instant skirt!! For tops, I usually find that
simply leaving out the waist darts is enough to make the garment fit.
If I must alter a side dart, I use the pivot and slide method instead
of slashing away at the dart. It accomplishes the same thing with
minimal damage to the original pattern.
Teri
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