If you were Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
|
Posted by TxMouse on March 20, 2006, 10:19 pm
Hi all,
I would post this question to my trade group, but don't have access to
the mail list right now. I hope someone out there can help.
I am making a shrug for a client out of silk charmeuse, with silk
chiffon sleeves. I've done a muslin for fitting, and the sleeve was too
tight under the arm. I already had to adjust the back of the sleeve
seam, as it was too tight for her to raise her arms. (She is the mother
of the groom, and will be hugging a lot.)
Here's my question--if lower the seam in the underarm area, how do I
adjust the sleeve? It seems that if I drop the seam on the sleeve to
correspond, I'm back to her not being able to raise her arms.
Thank you in advance for you suggestions!
Juliette in Texas
|
|
Posted by Kate Dicey on March 21, 2006, 4:49 am
TxMouse wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> Hi all,
>
> I would post this question to my trade group, but don't have access to
> the mail list right now. I hope someone out there can help.
> I am making a shrug for a client out of silk charmeuse, with silk
> chiffon sleeves. I've done a muslin for fitting, and the sleeve was too
> tight under the arm. I already had to adjust the back of the sleeve
> seam, as it was too tight for her to raise her arms. (She is the mother
> of the groom, and will be hugging a lot.)
> Here's my question--if lower the seam in the underarm area, how do I
> adjust the sleeve? It seems that if I drop the seam on the sleeve to
> correspond, I'm back to her not being able to raise her arms.
>
> Thank you in advance for you suggestions!
>
> Juliette in Texas
>
To get greater freedom of movement in the sleeve head and shoulder area,
you may need to RAISE the underarm, not lower it! Think about it...
you want MORE fabric there, not less, but you still want the close fit
when the arm is lowered. You may also need to put in greater width
across the sleeve head itself... And possibly add a little to the back
shoulder width. It's amazing what a half inch here or there can do.
--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
|
|
Posted by Kay Lancaster on March 21, 2006, 5:42 pm
show/hide quoted text
> I would post this question to my trade group, but don't have access to
> the mail list right now. I hope someone out there can help.
> I am making a shrug for a client out of silk charmeuse, with silk
> chiffon sleeves. I've done a muslin for fitting, and the sleeve was too
> tight under the arm. I already had to adjust the back of the sleeve
I'd adjust the armscye first on the muslin, and balance it. You'll want it
high under the arm, but not tight. Then I'd draft a custom sleeve for
it, and finally, adjust the custom sleeve for more movement. Do you
have access to Connie Crawford's Art of Fashion Draping, or her new
pattern book? If so, turn to the chapters on fitted sleeves... it's
a very straightforward process.
If the customer is well into the plus sizes, be sure you fit the sleeve
"tailorwise" -- she'll probably need more room in the upper back sleeve,
so you'll be wandering out onto the seam allowance there on the
sleeve only. That adjustment is unusual for smaller sizes, but I've seen
folks who needed it.
Kay
--
NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth
|
|
Posted by TxMouse on March 22, 2006, 9:16 am
Thank you, Kay!
I do have Connie Crawford's book, and will take a look today. I was
worried that I had explained the problem poorly, especially considering
the first response.
Regarding the upper back sleeve, I pinned out along both the sleeve and
back seamline, and it looked okay and gave her the ease she needed. I'm
tempted to add a center back seam with vent, though, instead of messing
with the sleeve so much.
I'll admit I'm leary of drafting a sleeve--it's the one thing my
pattern drafting class in college didn't cover...
Juliette in Texas
|
|
Posted by Kay Lancaster on March 22, 2006, 5:42 pm
show/hide quoted text
> Thank you, Kay!
>
> I do have Connie Crawford's book, and will take a look today. I was
> worried that I had explained the problem poorly, especially considering
> the first response.
> Regarding the upper back sleeve, I pinned out along both the sleeve and
> back seamline, and it looked okay and gave her the ease she needed. I'm
> tempted to add a center back seam with vent, though, instead of messing
> with the sleeve so much.
If you look at the sleeves of commercial jockey silks (those guys are
definitely reaching forward!), you'll see the back of the armscye
is not shifted outward onto the arm (as it would if you add more ease
to the back of the garment), but there is more room in the upper back
sleeve. That gives them the freedom of movement without having the
back armscye bind. The actual seam stays on the anatomical joint.
I don't know how to "predict" how much extra to build
into the back sleeve any way except by direct draping/pinfitting.
show/hide quoted text
> I'll admit I'm leary of drafting a sleeve--it's the one thing my
> pattern drafting class in college didn't cover...
Easy. Just remember to walk the sleeve into the armhole first, and then
adjust it for more movement, which involves drawing a new biceps line
higher, and pivoting the original sleeve to give a longer underarm seam.
show/hide quoted text
Don't forget your notches, too! <g>
If you've got the second edition of the draping book, you want chapter
7, basic sleeve, and chapter 14, the section on "adjusting the sleeve for
more arm movement".
Kay
--
NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth
|
Page 1 of 2 1 2 > last >>
| Similar Threads | Posted | | trouble altering raglan sleeve and contrast side panel ? | June 1, 2009, 11:30 am |
| Sleeve question | January 9, 2006, 5:29 pm |
| Sleeve caps | May 21, 2006, 5:21 pm |
| Sleeve adjustment help | December 12, 2006, 9:00 am |
| fitting a sleeve | May 22, 2005, 8:36 pm |
| Sleeve Board Fiasco... | April 14, 2006, 2:40 pm |
| Sleeve Board Update | April 23, 2006, 2:54 pm |
| drafting an off the shoulder sleeve | May 15, 2006, 10:54 am |
| question: sleeve adjustment? | November 11, 2006, 10:04 am |
| Sleeve Cap-remove fullness? | October 10, 2008, 8:24 am |
|
|
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap
>
> I would post this question to my trade group, but don't have access to
> the mail list right now. I hope someone out there can help.
> I am making a shrug for a client out of silk charmeuse, with silk
> chiffon sleeves. I've done a muslin for fitting, and the sleeve was too
> tight under the arm. I already had to adjust the back of the sleeve
> seam, as it was too tight for her to raise her arms. (She is the mother
> of the groom, and will be hugging a lot.)
> Here's my question--if lower the seam in the underarm area, how do I
> adjust the sleeve? It seems that if I drop the seam on the sleeve to
> correspond, I'm back to her not being able to raise her arms.
>
> Thank you in advance for you suggestions!
>
> Juliette in Texas
>