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Posted by nobodyhome1 on May 17, 2006, 8:02 pm
I have a sundress that I would like to copy. I have taken it apart (it is
too short) to make a pattern from it. But before I do I would like to make
a correction for swayback. I can pinch out an inch (horizontally) on the
back center seam where the zipper goes. When I tried to make a dart in my
pattern to shorten the back seam it kicks the pattern from the waist down
way to the back.
Does the back seam need to be straight or can I curve it and insert a
zipper. There are no darts on the back. What do you do for a swayback on a
dress with no waist seam, a dress like a shift?
I'm so frustrated, I'd appreciate any help!
Thanks
Miriam
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Posted by on May 17, 2006, 11:28 pm
Dear Miriam,
I don't think what you need is a dart; I think you need to elongate the
skirt. But the best way to get a perfect fit is to make a muslin.
You'll need the main front and back pieces and the skirt pieces. Sew
them with large machine basting stitches, so that they are easy to rip.
It's better to make alterations above the waist and above the hip, by
slashing across the area that needs altering, and filling in the gap
with a piece of cloth zigzagged in the open slash. Anywhere two pieces
have to sew together must be square--that's why doing the alteration
this way is better. If you simply lower the back as you suggested, you
will end up with a pointed waistline. The dress should be perfectly
smooth, with no wrinkles, but not tight. Once you're satisfied with
the look, mark all the seams with a wide marker. Also mark the darts,
and make them longer or shorter, as necessary. If you have wrinkles
anywhere pin them out and sew them into "darts" (not really darts; this
material will be gone when you're finished). Take the dress apart, and
carefully remove the seam allowances, open the darts (but not the
"darts") and use this to make a pattern. Trace around the pieces with
a dash line, then add back the seam allowance. You now have a
perfectly altered pattern to work with. You can put any length of
zipper you want in the back. Just measure the opening you need for
your dress, add 7/8 inch to that length.
Good luck. Please post a picture when it's done.
Teri
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Posted by nobodyhome1 on May 18, 2006, 8:10 pm
Thanks Teri for responding, I'll give it a try.
show/hide quoted text
> Dear Miriam,
> I don't think what you need is a dart; I think you need to elongate the
> skirt. But the best way to get a perfect fit is to make a muslin.
> You'll need the main front and back pieces and the skirt pieces. Sew
> them with large machine basting stitches, so that they are easy to rip.
> It's better to make alterations above the waist and above the hip, by
> slashing across the area that needs altering, and filling in the gap
> with a piece of cloth zigzagged in the open slash. Anywhere two pieces
> have to sew together must be square--that's why doing the alteration
> this way is better. If you simply lower the back as you suggested, you
> will end up with a pointed waistline. The dress should be perfectly
> smooth, with no wrinkles, but not tight. Once you're satisfied with
> the look, mark all the seams with a wide marker. Also mark the darts,
> and make them longer or shorter, as necessary. If you have wrinkles
> anywhere pin them out and sew them into "darts" (not really darts; this
> material will be gone when you're finished). Take the dress apart, and
> carefully remove the seam allowances, open the darts (but not the
> "darts") and use this to make a pattern. Trace around the pieces with
> a dash line, then add back the seam allowance. You now have a
> perfectly altered pattern to work with. You can put any length of
> zipper you want in the back. Just measure the opening you need for
> your dress, add 7/8 inch to that length.
> Good luck. Please post a picture when it's done.
> Teri
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> I don't think what you need is a dart; I think you need to elongate the
> skirt. But the best way to get a perfect fit is to make a muslin.
> You'll need the main front and back pieces and the skirt pieces. Sew
> them with large machine basting stitches, so that they are easy to rip.
> It's better to make alterations above the waist and above the hip, by
> slashing across the area that needs altering, and filling in the gap
> with a piece of cloth zigzagged in the open slash. Anywhere two pieces
> have to sew together must be square--that's why doing the alteration
> this way is better. If you simply lower the back as you suggested, you
> will end up with a pointed waistline. The dress should be perfectly
> smooth, with no wrinkles, but not tight. Once you're satisfied with
> the look, mark all the seams with a wide marker. Also mark the darts,
> and make them longer or shorter, as necessary. If you have wrinkles
> anywhere pin them out and sew them into "darts" (not really darts; this
> material will be gone when you're finished). Take the dress apart, and
> carefully remove the seam allowances, open the darts (but not the
> "darts") and use this to make a pattern. Trace around the pieces with
> a dash line, then add back the seam allowance. You now have a
> perfectly altered pattern to work with. You can put any length of
> zipper you want in the back. Just measure the opening you need for
> your dress, add 7/8 inch to that length.
> Good luck. Please post a picture when it's done.
> Teri