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Posted by Bill Boyce on April 1, 2009, 2:29 pm
I like short sleeved polo shirts, sometimes called golf shirts in US.
They have a placket front with about 4 buttons, so they are "Pullover"
style. Problem is: virtually all of them I used to buy now have a
cost-cutting spread knit collar, rather than a longer pointed
conventional collar with a stand. So I'm to try to make some.
Any pattern suggestions? I think I'll have to modify same because I like
a longer short sleeve than conventional, and an extra long placket for
an extra button or a zip, even, like the original British polo shirts.
Also, I like heavier weight knit: double knit or jersey? How many oz./sq
meter I don't know either. Any help appreciated. I've done research on
google, but I'm looking for opinions from experienced sewists. Thanks,
JPBill
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Posted by on April 1, 2009, 3:29 pm
Dear Bill,
Do you have a regular shirt that you like? If so, polo shirts are
developed from this. You can cut your own pattern, and get exactly
what you want. Find the center front of the shirt. This is where the
fold will go. Cut off the sleeve where you want it. If it's quite
tapered, then you need to straighten it some, or fold under 1-1/2
inches for a hem before you cut it off. Straighten out the hem at the
bottom of the body at the length you want.
Now the placket. Measure down your front for the length you want the
placket. The finished placket is 1-1/4 inches wide. Now make a box
on the front of your draft at the center front, the length you want by
5/8 inch (for half). Add seam allowances after you're done. The
draft for the placket is 2-1/2 inches wide by your desired length,
plus seam allowances. These pieces will be folded in half lengthwise,
to form a self facing. They are stacked on top of each other for
sewing. Make sure to stay stitch the opening so it doesn't stretch.
You can use the existing stand from your dress shirt, and develop the
collar the way you want it. You said you wanted longer points. Just
make sure that the collar fits between the dots on the stand.
Teri
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Posted by Kay Lancaster on April 1, 2009, 10:42 pm
http://www.kwiksew.com/Catalog/PDF/2530.pdf is a fairly decent polo shirt
pattern with placket variations -- you'll just need to substiture collar
and band from another pattern (or Teri or I can teach you how to draft
them). Hint: you can shorten or lengthen collars and bands at the center
back to fit a shirt neckline, and you can pretty much do whatever you
like to the collar's outside edges without changing the fit. Measure the ease
on this pattern to see if it's what you like... this looks a bit "boxy
90's" for current menswear fashions, and I've only made that pattern a couple
of times back in the 90's-- you may find you want to reduce or contour
the side seams. Jalie 961 might be another choice -- I have not made
this pattern -- I drape and draft my own now.
http://jalie.com/sewingpatterns/casual_mens.htm
Another hint: if you're looking for a collar and band to steal, one that has
separate top and bottom collar and inner and outer band pieces has almost
always been drafted by someone who knows what they're doing -- especially if
they give you the whole piece rather than "cut on fold". "Cut 2 on fold"
show/hide quoted text
to me means I'd better triple check the pattern before cutting. <g>
Jersey, imho, is not as easy to sew as interlock or one of the wicking
polyester fabrics. Jersey wants to roll up on the crossgrain, and I
have better things to do with my time than unroll jersey to sew.
Lacoste, pique or interlock is what I see a lot of the "nicer" polos in,
with some novelty knits. If you're looking for straight cotton, I like
Siltex's "bare knits" interlock, which also has ribbing available for
several colors; they also make a poly-cotton interlock.
http://www.siltex.com/catalog.php?cat=83
The last shirts I made DH were mostly wicking polyester, which is quite easy
to sew, and he seems to find quite comfortable. You'll want "midweight"
rather than "silk weight" -- and I can vouch for Malden's PowerDry as a
good product:
http://milldirecttextiles.com/dept2.asp?dept=31&id=0917451621613416017925562
Mostly you'll find the wicking polys in stores that cater to the outdoor
crowd:
http://specialtyoutdoors.com/tips/sources.asp
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Posted by on April 2, 2009, 12:05 am
Dear Kay,
I always taught my students to draft whole collar and stand patterns,
and then to cut them on the straight grain, rather than the cross
grain. It makes them much easier to iron, if they need it.
Teri
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Posted by Bill Boyce on April 2, 2009, 5:10 pm
Kay Lancaster wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> http://www.kwiksew.com/Catalog/PDF/2530.pdf is a fairly decent polo shirt
> pattern with placket variations -- you'll just need to substiture collar
> and band from another pattern (or Teri or I can teach you how to draft
> them). Hint: you can shorten or lengthen collars and bands at the center
> back to fit a shirt neckline, and you can pretty much do whatever you
> like to the collar's outside edges without changing the fit. Measure the ease
> on this pattern to see if it's what you like... this looks a bit "boxy
> 90's" for current menswear fashions, and I've only made that pattern a couple
> of times back in the 90's-- you may find you want to reduce or contour
> the side seams. Jalie 961 might be another choice -- I have not made
> this pattern -- I drape and draft my own now.
> http://jalie.com/sewingpatterns/casual_mens.htm
>
> Another hint: if you're looking for a collar and band to steal, one that has
> separate top and bottom collar and inner and outer band pieces has almost
> always been drafted by someone who knows what they're doing -- especially if
> they give you the whole piece rather than "cut on fold". "Cut 2 on fold"
>
> Jersey, imho, is not as easy to sew as interlock or one of the wicking
> polyester fabrics. Jersey wants to roll up on the crossgrain, and I
> have better things to do with my time than unroll jersey to sew.
>
> Lacoste, pique or interlock is what I see a lot of the "nicer" polos in,
> with some novelty knits. If you're looking for straight cotton, I like
> Siltex's "bare knits" interlock, which also has ribbing available for
> several colors; they also make a poly-cotton interlock.
> http://www.siltex.com/catalog.php?cat=83
>
> The last shirts I made DH were mostly wicking polyester, which is quite easy
> to sew, and he seems to find quite comfortable. You'll want "midweight"
> rather than "silk weight" -- and I can vouch for Malden's PowerDry as a
> good product:
> http://milldirecttextiles.com/dept2.asp?dept=31&id=0917451621613416017925562
> Mostly you'll find the wicking polys in stores that cater to the outdoor
> crowd:
> http://specialtyoutdoors.com/tips/sources.asp
>
Kay, thanks so much for the complete and helpful post. I'm following up
on all of the links you gave and now have some decisions to make, but no
more questions about this project. JPBill
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