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Posted by Sharon Hays on June 27, 2006, 8:39 am
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> I want to make some boxers for my DH, cotton, not stretchy though. I
don't
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> want the elastic to be uncomfortable so I am wondering what is the best
kind
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> to use.
> I don't need a pattern, I can just use a pair he owns and copy them, thats
> easy enough.
> TIA!
> Michelle Giordano
Michelle,
When I do PJ pants for DH and DS, I use 1" ban roll. I put it in with the
serger. Cut the elastic 2" less than the waist it will be on. Then lap the
ends 1" and sew into a loop. Divide into forths. I put the lapped edge at
the CB. Then the other 3 marks at CF and each side seam. Serge with the
fabric against the feed dogs, differential feed set to 2 (so it scrunches
the fabric) knife disengaged. You have to hold the elastic taut without
pulling on the fabric. Tricky, but I get great results that way. Then just
turn it down to the inside, hold elastic (and fabric) taut again and stitch
with the sewing machine. You can also use woolly nylon in the loopers to
make the serged edge softer. Also remember to steam the elastic when you
are done. That makes it pull back down to its original length. Works great
for PJ pants and I'm sure it would work great for boxers too.
HTH
Sharon
--
Never try to teach a pig to sing. It's a waste of time and just annoys the
pig.
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Posted by Doug&Michelle on June 27, 2006, 2:08 pm
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> Michelle,
> When I do PJ pants for DH and DS, I use 1" ban roll. I put it in with the
> serger. Cut the elastic 2" less than the waist it will be on. Then lap
> the
> ends 1" and sew into a loop. Divide into forths. I put the lapped edge
> at
> the CB. Then the other 3 marks at CF and each side seam. Serge with the
> fabric against the feed dogs, differential feed set to 2 (so it scrunches
> the fabric) knife disengaged. You have to hold the elastic taut without
> pulling on the fabric. Tricky, but I get great results that way. Then
> just
> turn it down to the inside, hold elastic (and fabric) taut again and
> stitch
> with the sewing machine. You can also use woolly nylon in the loopers to
> make the serged edge softer. Also remember to steam the elastic when you
> are done. That makes it pull back down to its original length. Works
> great
> for PJ pants and I'm sure it would work great for boxers too.
> HTH
> Sharon
Wow thanks for the great instructions, you have practically taken all the
work out of it! Now if you could just sew them for me.... I could take that
time and have a glass of wine! (LOL)
I will definitley try that method it sounds great.
Michelle Giordano
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Posted by Sharon Hays on June 28, 2006, 8:36 am
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> Wow thanks for the great instructions, you have practically taken all the
> work out of it! Now if you could just sew them for me.... I could take
that
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> time and have a glass of wine! (LOL)
<snort>!!! Ok. But you have to pour one for me too. While you are doing
the final pressing, then I get my glass. lol
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> I will definitley try that method it sounds great.
> Michelle Giordano
I use that for all my elastic waistbands now. There are several things I
like about it. First off, it's way easier, when you are done sewing you are
done with the waistband. I loathe feeding elastic through a casing---it's a
heap of cuss words waiting to happen. ;) I also like the fit of this kind
of elastic waist better. The porportions keep the elastic just right. I
really hate when an elastic waist droops when I sit down. This way solves
that for me.
And if you ever have to take one out, it's not hard to pull out. Two words:
razor blade. All the stitching holding it in is at the serged edge. The
serged stitches and the machine stitches are all right there. Slide the
razor blade in carefully, then pull it like a zipper pull. Bloop...out
comes the elastic. ;)
Lemme know how it works for you.
Sharon
--
Never try to teach a pig to sing. It's a waste of time and just annoys the
pig.
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Posted by Michael Daly on June 27, 2006, 3:21 pm
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> Serge with the
> fabric against the feed dogs, differential feed set to 2 (so it scrunches
> the fabric) knife disengaged.
Does your serger have both loopers on the bottom or one on the bottom and one on
the top?
I have both on the bottom and I don't think I could fit the 1" elastic on the
looper side without
the top looper hitting it.
Or am I missing something?
Help appreciated, as I need more unnawares and its time to make some more.
(this discussion
on good elastics is so timely!)
Mike
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Posted by Kate Dicey on June 27, 2006, 4:01 pm
Michael Daly wrote:
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>
>
>>Serge with the
>>fabric against the feed dogs, differential feed set to 2 (so it scrunches
>>the fabric) knife disengaged.
>
>
> Does your serger have both loopers on the bottom or one on the bottom and one
on the top?
show/hide quoted text
> I have both on the bottom and I don't think I could fit the 1" elastic on the
looper side without
show/hide quoted text
> the top looper hitting it.
>
> Or am I missing something?
>
> Help appreciated, as I need more unnawares and its time to make some more.
(this discussion
show/hide quoted text
> on good elastics is so timely!)
>
> Mike
You still have an upper looper and a lower looper. It doesn't refer to
where they are on the machine, but where they put the thread. :) If
you look at the sewn seam you will have one or two needle threads to the
left and a upper thread on the top side of the seam and a lower thread
on the underside, placed by the upper and lower loopers.
On a two thread seam you will find that the upper looper catches the
thread from the lower looper and puts it where the needle thread can
catch it and thus it stays wrapped round both sides of the seam. :)
--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
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