Serging cut patten pieces-what to do?

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Serging cut patten pieces-what to do? Karin Singer 09-08-2006
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Posted by Karin Singer on September 8, 2006, 4:25 pm
Hi!

Before I begin any new project, I used to serge each piece so it wouldn't
fray because I have used silks, linen and now tight weave wool.

Now that I am more experienced, I don't serge the edge until I have made a
final fit with a resonable seam allowance

No, I do not have fray check. I think I would run out and wouldn't be cost
effective.

What should I do to save time and fabric?

Does anybody have a suggestion on some other way?

Thanks
Karin



Posted by BEI Design on September 8, 2006, 4:33 pm


Karin Singer wrote:
> Hi!
>
> Before I begin any new project, I used to serge each
> piece so it wouldn't fray because I have used silks,
> linen and now tight weave wool.
> Now that I am more experienced, I don't serge the edge
> until I have made a final fit with a resonable seam
> allowance
> No, I do not have fray check. I think I would run out
> and wouldn't be cost effective.
>
> What should I do to save time and fabric?
>
> Does anybody have a suggestion on some other way?

What do you find wrong with the way you have been doing it?

Before I got my first serger, I used to cut *everything* out
using pinking shears. I adjusted for the additional depth of the
"pinks" by sewing 3/4" seam allowances (in most cases). And if
that wasn't enough, I zig-zagged the edges using a three-step
zig-zag.

Now that I have two sergers, I prefer to serge the cut-out fabric
pieces of *most* fabrics before I assemble garments, because I
loath dealing with frayed fabric. But I still cut pattern pieces
out using pinking shears, too and just trim off the "pinks" when
I serge.

I would not even consider using FrayCheck for this purpose.

Beverly



Posted by Olwyn Mary on September 8, 2006, 7:43 pm
Karin Singer wrote:
> Hi!
>
> Before I begin any new project, I used to serge each piece so it wouldn't
> fray because I have used silks, linen and now tight weave wool.
>
> Now that I am more experienced, I don't serge the edge until I have made a
> final fit with a resonable seam allowance
>
> No, I do not have fray check. I think I would run out and wouldn't be cost
> effective.
>
> What should I do to save time and fabric?
>
> Does anybody have a suggestion on some other way?
>
> Thanks
> Karin

I cut out my pattern pieces as accurately as possible, taking careful
note of the various notches etc. Then, I stay stitch around curved
areas which may stretch, such as necklines and armholes. Unless the
fabric is astonishingly ravelly, I then proceed to make up the garment.
About half or three-quarters of the way through, I decide which will be
the most appropriate edge finish. Some fabrics need none, particularly
if they are to be lined, some can use a simple zigzag along the edge,
others cry out for either hand overcasting or a Hong Kong finish.

If a fabric ravels while just sitting there, I will probably either edge
stitch or zigzag it to stabilise it.

Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.


--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com


Posted by on September 9, 2006, 9:46 am

Dear Friends,

One should NEVER use pinking shears to cut out patterns, especially
intricate designs. It distorts the shape, and makes it difficult to
make notches. Likewise, serging edges of pattern pieces before they're
sewn together also distorts, and in some cases, shrinks the pattern
piece, thus making it difficult to sew together. It is not OK to cut
off what hangs off the edge of a finished seam. If the two edges match
before sewing them, they should match after.

Learning a variety of seam finishes should be the goal. Lightweight,
ravelly fabric should be carefully handled, in fact left on the pattern
until ready to go to the machine, then flat felled or french seamed
together. Heavier weight fabrics should have seams great or hong kong
finishes. Sergers are fine for garments worn for one or two seasons;
but for long lasting seams, a better finish is needed. Yes, I have a
serger, and I use it often. But not on my tailored wools and silks.
Accurate cutting is essential for accurate sewing. And one never gets
too advanced to eschew marking notches and darts.

Teri


Posted by Kate Dicey on September 9, 2006, 10:19 am
gjones2938@yahoo.com wrote:

> Dear Friends,
>
> One should NEVER use pinking shears to cut out patterns, especially
> intricate designs. It distorts the shape, and makes it difficult to
> make notches. Likewise, serging edges of pattern pieces before they're
> sewn together also distorts, and in some cases, shrinks the pattern
> piece, thus making it difficult to sew together. It is not OK to cut
> off what hangs off the edge of a finished seam. If the two edges match
> before sewing them, they should match after.
>
> Learning a variety of seam finishes should be the goal. Lightweight,
> ravelly fabric should be carefully handled, in fact left on the pattern
> until ready to go to the machine, then flat felled or french seamed
> together. Heavier weight fabrics should have seams great or hong kong
> finishes. Sergers are fine for garments worn for one or two seasons;
> but for long lasting seams, a better finish is needed. Yes, I have a
> serger, and I use it often. But not on my tailored wools and silks.
> Accurate cutting is essential for accurate sewing. And one never gets
> too advanced to eschew marking notches and darts.
>
> Teri
>

I avoid finishing seams before sewing stuff together whenever possible,
but not if it means the seam allowances will vanish before I get the
blessed thing together! THEN I'll serge the edges if I have to - but
only if pushed! I rarely use it on tailored things, but it's magic for
things like the present project: stretch Lycra velour!

I own a pair of pinking sheers, but about the only thing I do with them
is the edges of fusible interfacing: it softens the cut edge and makes
less of a line between fused and unfused areas.

I do have to say, Teri, that I have things I serged with my first serger
over 10 years ago that are still going strong, and get worn and washed
almost weekly! If you use good fabric, good thread, and do it properly,
it can last a VERY long time!

--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

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