Sewing on cotton jersey with some lycra

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Sewing on cotton jersey with some lycra Juno 02-24-2008
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Posted by Juno on February 24, 2008, 5:17 pm
I have some cotton jersey with Lycra in my stash that I want to use to
make a child's skirt. Probably never should have bought the stuff since
I have no clue how to use it.However if I don't try something it will
sit there forever scaring me half to death and then I'll never learn how
to handle it I hate to have any piece of fabric defeat me, *I know I'm
smarter than fabric* lol. So does anyone have any tips for me as to how
to tame the stuff. I plan on making a very simple skirt for a child.
Total length will be 15 inches. I know I need to cut a waist band and 2
pieces of fabric about 2x the width of her waist. Any more I think will
be too much fabric.*She's a tiny 6 year old*. I plan on putting elastic
in the waist. I could make a fold over waist if that's an easier way to
go. It doesn't really make a big difference. I'll probably take
advantage of all the stretch and do a lettuce hem. This stuff is very
stretchy in both directions.
Thanks, Juno

Posted by Sharon M Hays on February 26, 2008, 9:01 am
Juno wrote:

> Do you know how to put an elastic waistband in with the
>> serger? That's super easy too. If you don't know, I will gladly tell
>> you
>> how I do it. I think that would work just fine with this project.


>
> Haven't done that yet. A tutorial would be very welcome. Thanks Sharon.
> Juno


OK. Here's what I do. I use 1" wide elastic. (I don't like any wider than
that; uncomfortable to me.) I cut the elastic 2" less than the waist
measurement. (However, if she has no hips and is an energetic little
monkey, you might want to cut that 3" less.) Then overlap the cut ends
about 1" and stitch (I use 3 step zig zag top and bottom of the lapped
portions) to form a circle. Now, use the lapped portion as the CB. Fold
the elastic to find the CF, and both sides. Mark those with pins.

I have used 3 threads and 4 threads to do this. Either seems to work fine so
however you have the serger set up will do. Disengage the blades. You
don't want to cut through the elastic. Also, you don't want the serger set
for a rolled edge. Turn your differential feed to the highest setting. On
mine, that's "2." I tend to think of that as "most scrunched" for the
bottom fabric. ;)

Turn the skirt wrong side out. Find the CF, CB, and both side seams of the
skirt. Line up the matching points from the elastic and slide the elastic
ring over the skirt. Pin those points. Trust me, you won't serge over
them, but you will need them to keep everything aligned. Pretty important
to keep the cut edge of the skirt aligned with the edge of the elastic too.

You will be serging with the right side of the fabric against the feed dogs.
Start at any one of your 4 points. Pull that pin, and slide that point
under the presser foot of the serger. Drop the presser foot down (this is
one of the few times I actually raise the presser foot before I start.)
Then set your needle(s) all the way down. Now you are going to stretch the
elastic taut between where you are starting and the next pinned point.
Only the elastic, not the fabric. Usually once you pull the elastic taut,
it stretches out to about the same as the fabric. Then just start serging.
You should be overcasting the fabric and the elastic. The differential
feed will scrunch the fabric down to the size of the elastic. When you get
close to the next pin, stop, pull the pin, grab the elastic at the next
pin, pull taut, start serging again. Keep going till you're back where you
started. ;)

Then I carry it back to my sewing machine. I fold the elastic down so it's
covered by the fabric on the inside of the waist. Then holding taut at
those same 4 points, and working with the right side of the fabric against
the feed dogs, I carefully stitch it down.

Now, here's the super sneaky tricky part that is essential. Go steam the
elastic. And I do mean STEAM. That allows the elastic to really snap back
to it's original length. But don't ever use old elastic that's been
sitting around a long time. It won't recover it's original length.
BTDT. :(

Once you get the hang of it, and it really is easy, this will go Fast! I
like this method a lot. Much faster than feeding through a casing. If any
of that doesn't make sense, let me know.

Sharon
---
Never try to teach a pig to sing. It's a waste of time and just annoys the
pig.

Posted by Juno on February 26, 2008, 11:56 am
Sharon M Hays wrote:
> Juno wrote:
>
>> Do you know how to put an elastic waistband in with the
>>> serger? That's super easy too. If you don't know, I will gladly tell
>>> you
>>> how I do it. I think that would work just fine with this project.
>
>
>> Haven't done that yet. A tutorial would be very welcome. Thanks Sharon.
>> Juno
>
>
> OK. Here's what I do. I use 1" wide elastic. (I don't like any wider than
> that; uncomfortable to me.) I cut the elastic 2" less than the waist
> measurement. (However, if she has no hips and is an energetic little
> monkey, you might want to cut that 3" less.) Then overlap the cut ends
> about 1" and stitch (I use 3 step zig zag top and bottom of the lapped
> portions) to form a circle. Now, use the lapped portion as the CB. Fold
> the elastic to find the CF, and both sides. Mark those with pins.
>
> I have used 3 threads and 4 threads to do this. Either seems to work fine so
> however you have the serger set up will do. Disengage the blades. You
> don't want to cut through the elastic. Also, you don't want the serger set
> for a rolled edge. Turn your differential feed to the highest setting. On
> mine, that's "2." I tend to think of that as "most scrunched" for the
> bottom fabric. ;)
>
> Turn the skirt wrong side out. Find the CF, CB, and both side seams of the
> skirt. Line up the matching points from the elastic and slide the elastic
> ring over the skirt. Pin those points. Trust me, you won't serge over
> them, but you will need them to keep everything aligned. Pretty important
> to keep the cut edge of the skirt aligned with the edge of the elastic too.
>
> You will be serging with the right side of the fabric against the feed dogs.
> Start at any one of your 4 points. Pull that pin, and slide that point
> under the presser foot of the serger. Drop the presser foot down (this is
> one of the few times I actually raise the presser foot before I start.)
> Then set your needle(s) all the way down. Now you are going to stretch the
> elastic taut between where you are starting and the next pinned point.
> Only the elastic, not the fabric. Usually once you pull the elastic taut,
> it stretches out to about the same as the fabric. Then just start serging.
> You should be overcasting the fabric and the elastic. The differential
> feed will scrunch the fabric down to the size of the elastic. When you get
> close to the next pin, stop, pull the pin, grab the elastic at the next
> pin, pull taut, start serging again. Keep going till you're back where you
> started. ;)
>
> Then I carry it back to my sewing machine. I fold the elastic down so it's
> covered by the fabric on the inside of the waist. Then holding taut at
> those same 4 points, and working with the right side of the fabric against
> the feed dogs, I carefully stitch it down.
>
> Now, here's the super sneaky tricky part that is essential. Go steam the
> elastic. And I do mean STEAM. That allows the elastic to really snap back
> to it's original length. But don't ever use old elastic that's been
> sitting around a long time. It won't recover it's original length.
> BTDT. :(
>
> Once you get the hang of it, and it really is easy, this will go Fast! I
> like this method a lot. Much faster than feeding through a casing. If any
> of that doesn't make sense, let me know.
>
> Sharon
> ---
> Never try to teach a pig to sing. It's a waste of time and just annoys the
> pig.
Sharon, Thanks for the help. I've printed it out and will practice today.
Juno

Posted by Juno on February 27, 2008, 4:09 pm
Juno wrote:
> Sharon M Hays wrote:
>> Juno wrote:
>>
>>> Do you know how to put an elastic waistband in with the
>>>> serger? That's super easy too. If you don't know, I will gladly tell
>>>> you
>>>> how I do it. I think that would work just fine with this project.
>>
>>
>>> Haven't done that yet. A tutorial would be very welcome. Thanks Sharon.
>>> Juno
>>
>>
>> OK. Here's what I do. I use 1" wide elastic. (I don't like any wider
>> than
>> that; uncomfortable to me.) I cut the elastic 2" less than the waist
>> measurement. (However, if she has no hips and is an energetic little
>> monkey, you might want to cut that 3" less.) Then overlap the cut ends
>> about 1" and stitch (I use 3 step zig zag top and bottom of the lapped
>> portions) to form a circle. Now, use the lapped portion as the CB. Fold
>> the elastic to find the CF, and both sides. Mark those with pins.
>> I have used 3 threads and 4 threads to do this. Either seems to work
>> fine so
>> however you have the serger set up will do. Disengage the blades. You
>> don't want to cut through the elastic. Also, you don't want the
>> serger set
>> for a rolled edge. Turn your differential feed to the highest
>> setting. On
>> mine, that's "2." I tend to think of that as "most scrunched" for the
>> bottom fabric. ;)
>> Turn the skirt wrong side out. Find the CF, CB, and both side seams
>> of the
>> skirt. Line up the matching points from the elastic and slide the elastic
>> ring over the skirt. Pin those points. Trust me, you won't serge over
>> them, but you will need them to keep everything aligned. Pretty important
>> to keep the cut edge of the skirt aligned with the edge of the elastic
>> too.
>>
>> You will be serging with the right side of the fabric against the feed
>> dogs. Start at any one of your 4 points. Pull that pin, and slide
>> that point
>> under the presser foot of the serger. Drop the presser foot down
>> (this is
>> one of the few times I actually raise the presser foot before I
>> start.) Then set your needle(s) all the way down. Now you are going
>> to stretch the
>> elastic taut between where you are starting and the next pinned point.
>> Only the elastic, not the fabric. Usually once you pull the elastic
>> taut,
>> it stretches out to about the same as the fabric. Then just start
>> serging.
>> You should be overcasting the fabric and the elastic. The differential
>> feed will scrunch the fabric down to the size of the elastic. When
>> you get
>> close to the next pin, stop, pull the pin, grab the elastic at the next
>> pin, pull taut, start serging again. Keep going till you're back
>> where you
>> started. ;)
>>
>> Then I carry it back to my sewing machine. I fold the elastic down so
>> it's
>> covered by the fabric on the inside of the waist. Then holding taut at
>> those same 4 points, and working with the right side of the fabric
>> against
>> the feed dogs, I carefully stitch it down.
>> Now, here's the super sneaky tricky part that is essential. Go steam the
>> elastic. And I do mean STEAM. That allows the elastic to really snap
>> back
>> to it's original length. But don't ever use old elastic that's been
>> sitting around a long time. It won't recover it's original length.
>> BTDT. :(
>> Once you get the hang of it, and it really is easy, this will go Fast! I
>> like this method a lot. Much faster than feeding through a casing. If
>> any
>> of that doesn't make sense, let me know.
>> Sharon
>> ---
>> Never try to teach a pig to sing. It's a waste of time and just annoys
>> the
>> pig.
> Sharon, Thanks for the help. I've printed it out and will practice today.
> Juno

Sharon,
I've been working on your method to put elastic into a waist band. I
find that by dividing the elastic and skirt in 8th it works better for
me.It sure as heck beats pulling elastic through a casing. I hate doing
things that way.
Juno

Posted by Sharon Hays on February 28, 2008, 7:01 am
Juno wrote:

>
> Sharon,
> I've been working on your method to put elastic into a waist band. I
> find that by dividing the elastic and skirt in 8th it works better for
> me.It sure as heck beats pulling elastic through a casing. I hate doing
> things that way.
> Juno


Great! I'm glad you can make that work for you. I first read a similar
method in a Loes Hinse pattern. I can't remember now what was different
from what I told you to do. But I do remember tinkering a little with the
method she described. That was several years ago now. There are still
times when a casing is what you need to put in. But if I can at all, I do
it this way. So much easier.

Glad it's working for you. I'd been thinking about you and wondering if you
were cussing at me or if it worked. lol

Sharon
---
Never try to teach a pig to sing. It's a waste of time and just annoys the
pig.

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