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Posted by Kitty in Pennsylvania, USA on March 17, 2005, 9:38 am
I've been looking for silk at different sites and find so many different
types that I don't have any experience with, that I would like anyone
who has more experience with fabrics to help me decipher the
differences.
Chiffon
Jacquard
Brocade
Dupioni
damask
Matlasse
Crepe
crepe du chine
Georgette
Raw
Shantung
I would appreciate any help in determining what the characteristics of
these various fabrics are, how they differ and how I should choose to
use them for garments, particularly.
I am trying right now to create a period type dress for a semi formal
occasion, and outdoor evening wedding. I want my dress to be dressy,
two part, cool, easy to wear, and to give the feeling of being of the
1890's but without a real bustle or hoops, if possible. My goal is to
be comfortable, fancy and fun, with most of the style but none of the
overdressed look. and I'm worried I wouldn't be able to wear a hoop
without looking silly.
I envision a gored skirt with a smooth front, gathered back and perhaps
a demi train, which I love the look of, but am a bit worried it will get
walked on. the blouse or jacket I see as being not to fussy, no HUGE
sleeves, not to tight, creating the feel which in the actual era would
have been more appropriate for a working woman rather than a fancy elite
woman. I figure even a seamstress or School marm of that era would
have been seen as being very well dressed in our era.
thanks for any help you can offer, I just can't make up my mind so far
how to go on. thanks again, Kitty in Pennsylvania, USA
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Posted by Karen Maslowski on March 17, 2005, 9:54 am
This is a tall order, Kitty, and you would be better served by doing a
couple of things. First, go to this site: www.raincitypublishing.com
Julie Parker has written what I think are the definitive tomes on silk,
cotton and wool, each with actual fabric swatches of the materials
described. I learned a lot about silks with her All About Silk book, and
the others, as well: All About Wool, and All About Cotton. They are
mainstays in my voluminous sewing library. NAYY
If you prefer not to do this, you can also order sample sets at a couple
of different online fabric providers. I know for sure
www.silkconnection.com has one, and Greenberg & Hammer used to have.
There may be others that someone else may know about here. As I used to
tell my students, you need to "educate your fingers" about various
fabrics' characteristics. That's pretty much the only way to learn,
although reading a book or a description will help reinforce it. This is
my opinion, YMVV.
Hope this helps, and good luck with the dress. It sounds like a great
project.
Karen Maslowski in Ohio
Kitty in Pennsylvania, USA wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> I've been looking for silk at different sites and find so many different
> types that I don't have any experience with, that I would like anyone
> who has more experience with fabrics to help me decipher the differences.
> Chiffon
> Jacquard
> Brocade
> Dupioni
> damask
> Matlasse
> Crepe
> crepe du chine
> Georgette
> Raw
> Shantung
>
>
> I would appreciate any help in determining what the characteristics of
> these various fabrics are, how they differ and how I should choose to
> use them for garments, particularly.
>
> I am trying right now to create a period type dress for a semi formal
> occasion, and outdoor evening wedding. I want my dress to be dressy,
> two part, cool, easy to wear, and to give the feeling of being of the
> 1890's but without a real bustle or hoops, if possible. My goal is to
> be comfortable, fancy and fun, with most of the style but none of the
> overdressed look. and I'm worried I wouldn't be able to wear a hoop
> without looking silly.
>
> I envision a gored skirt with a smooth front, gathered back and perhaps
> a demi train, which I love the look of, but am a bit worried it will get
> walked on. the blouse or jacket I see as being not to fussy, no HUGE
> sleeves, not to tight, creating the feel which in the actual era would
> have been more appropriate for a working woman rather than a fancy elite
> woman. I figure even a seamstress or School marm of that era would
> have been seen as being very well dressed in our era.
>
> thanks for any help you can offer, I just can't make up my mind so far
> how to go on. thanks again, Kitty in Pennsylvania, USA
>
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> News==----
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Posted by Kate Dicey on March 17, 2005, 1:24 pm
Kitty in Pennsylvania, USA wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> I've been looking for silk at different sites and find so many different
> types that I don't have any experience with, that I would like anyone
> who has more experience with fabrics to help me decipher the differences.
show/hide quoted text
> Chiffon
Light and sheer, and very soft. Goof for soft fluttery things, but
needs to be lined to avoid sho-through except where you want this.
show/hide quoted text
> Jacquard
With a pattern woven in: light weight, for blouses and stuff.
show/hide quoted text
> Brocade
With a coloured pattern woven in - heavier than jacquard. Think curtain
weight.
show/hide quoted text
> Dupioni
Woven from slubbed silk made when two silk worms make a single cocoon
together. great for bridal things
show/hide quoted text
> damask
Another type of jacquard pattern: tends to be heavier than 'jacquard'.
Makes good wedding dresses
show/hide quoted text
> Matlasse
Not sure about this one...
show/hide quoted text
> Crepe
Woven from highly twisted threads: has natural stretch. Drapes well,
and can be anything from blouse to coat weight
show/hide quoted text
> crepe du chine
As above, but very light blouse weight: soft drapy hand
show/hide quoted text
> Georgette
Like crepe, but semi-sheer
show/hide quoted text
> Raw
Often refers to dupion type fabric. Crisp hand. Great for more
tailored looking things. creases rather a lot, like many silks.
show/hide quoted text
> Shantung
A finer slub weave.
show/hide quoted text
>
>
> I would appreciate any help in determining what the characteristics of
> these various fabrics are, how they differ and how I should choose to
> use them for garments, particularly.
>
> I am trying right now to create a period type dress for a semi formal
> occasion, and outdoor evening wedding. I want my dress to be dressy,
> two part, cool, easy to wear, and to give the feeling of being of the
> 1890's but without a real bustle or hoops, if possible. My goal is to
> be comfortable, fancy and fun, with most of the style but none of the
> overdressed look. and I'm worried I wouldn't be able to wear a hoop
> without looking silly.
You wouldn't wear a hoop in the 1890's, so no worries there. A sort of
Tea Gown would be a good look.
show/hide quoted text
>
> I envision a gored skirt with a smooth front, gathered back and perhaps
> a demi train, which I love the look of, but am a bit worried it will get
> walked on. the blouse or jacket I see as being not to fussy, no HUGE
> sleeves, not to tight, creating the feel which in the actual era would
> have been more appropriate for a working woman rather than a fancy elite
> woman. I figure even a seamstress or School marm of that era would
> have been seen as being very well dressed in our era.
>
> thanks for any help you can offer, I just can't make up my mind so far
> how to go on. thanks again, Kitty in Pennsylvania, USA
Take a look at the Past Patterns web site some patterns:
http://www.patternsoftime.com/
show/hide quoted text
>
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--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
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Posted by BEI Design on March 17, 2005, 2:17 pm
show/hide quoted text
> Kitty in Pennsylvania, USA wrote:
>> I am trying right now to create a period type dress for a semi
>> formal occasion, and outdoor evening wedding. I want my dress to
>> be dressy, two part, cool, easy to wear, and to give the feeling of
>> being of the 1890's but without a real bustle or hoops, if
>> possible. My goal is to be comfortable, fancy and fun, with most
>> of the style but none of the overdressed look. and I'm worried I
>> wouldn't be able to wear a hoop without looking silly.
Kate wrote
show/hide quoted text
> You wouldn't wear a hoop in the 1890's, so no worries there. A sort
> of
> Tea Gown would be a good look.
> Take a look at the Past Patterns web site some patterns:
> http://www.patternsoftime.com/
Kate's advice is right on target, as usual. Specifically, for your
time frame:
https://www.patternsoftime.com/victoriandir.html
The look of the 1890s was *not* hooped skirts. Think "Belle Epoch",
show/hide quoted text
and "Fin-de-Siscle". ;->
--
Beverly
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Posted by on March 17, 2005, 2:34 pm
Dear Kitty,
Someone else has aptly answered the questions about fabric weaves, so I
won't repeat. However, if you're going for the 1890s, you're going to
have to put up with big sleeves. The best thing I can suggest is to
look at summer frocks for this decade. Then you won't have to wear
silk; you can use cotton or linen. But the types are very important.
The ones in the collections that I have curated are dimity, lawn,
figured gauzy cotton, cotton lace, some linen for tailored suits, and
only some silk linen or tweed. Large hats and crocheted gloves, pointy
shoes with spool heels and outrageous silk stockings would complete
your outfit.
Teri
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> types that I don't have any experience with, that I would like anyone
> who has more experience with fabrics to help me decipher the differences.
> Chiffon
> Jacquard
> Brocade
> Dupioni
> damask
> Matlasse
> Crepe
> crepe du chine
> Georgette
> Raw
> Shantung
>
>
> I would appreciate any help in determining what the characteristics of
> these various fabrics are, how they differ and how I should choose to
> use them for garments, particularly.
>
> I am trying right now to create a period type dress for a semi formal
> occasion, and outdoor evening wedding. I want my dress to be dressy,
> two part, cool, easy to wear, and to give the feeling of being of the
> 1890's but without a real bustle or hoops, if possible. My goal is to
> be comfortable, fancy and fun, with most of the style but none of the
> overdressed look. and I'm worried I wouldn't be able to wear a hoop
> without looking silly.
>
> I envision a gored skirt with a smooth front, gathered back and perhaps
> a demi train, which I love the look of, but am a bit worried it will get
> walked on. the blouse or jacket I see as being not to fussy, no HUGE
> sleeves, not to tight, creating the feel which in the actual era would
> have been more appropriate for a working woman rather than a fancy elite
> woman. I figure even a seamstress or School marm of that era would
> have been seen as being very well dressed in our era.
>
> thanks for any help you can offer, I just can't make up my mind so far
> how to go on. thanks again, Kitty in Pennsylvania, USA
>
> ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet
> News==----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+
> Newsgroups
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