Sleeve caps

Posted by Liz W on May 21, 2006, 5:21 pm

Hello All!

I have a question about sleeve caps for a set-in sleeve. I have a
rolled shoulder and needed to move the shoulder seam on my bodice
forward 1 inch. At the moment I'm working on the muslin and this is
for my son's wedding on June 10th. Time is running out!

I've basted the sleeve in and it looks horrible! How do I adjust the
sleeve cap to match up to the new shoulder seam? I have it on my dress
form now and it appears to have too much fabric (on the sleeve) between
the center "dot" and the front notches and not quite enough fabric ease
on the back between the notches and the center dot. The couple of
pattern fitting books I have only tell me how to deal with the length
or width of a sleeve, not what to do with the cap after the shoulder
seam has been moved. I'm having nightmares that the sleeves will rip
out when I (5' 2") try to dance with my 6' 3" son! Thanks for all your
help.

Liz W

Posted by Joy Beeson on May 21, 2006, 6:56 pm

Move the dot the same distance and direction that you moved the
shoulder seam.

Joy Beeson
--
http://joybeeson.home.comcast.net/
http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/ -- needlework
http://n3f.home.comcast.net/ -- Writers' Exchange
joy beeson at comcast dot net

Posted by Kay Lancaster on May 21, 2006, 10:42 pm

show/hide quoted text

What's happening to the sleeve's grainline now? It should be perpendicular
to the floor. I suspect it's now pointing somewhere behind you.
Is that true?

When you moved the seamline, did you change the shape of the armscye?
Will the sleeve walk into the new armscye? How much ease does it have?

Posted by Phaedrine on May 22, 2006, 12:49 am

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It used to be that the "shoulder" seam was set back, slightly behind the
shoulder, running from a bit behind the side-neck center down diagonally
over the shoulder blade to about 9 o'clock on the armhole. So it could
not be seen from the front at all. This was, of course, in the late
19th and early 20th centuries. IMHO, a modified version of this might
be a better option than pulling the shoulder seam forward and
emphasizing that one's shoulder(s) roll forward. And Kay makes such a
good point about the need to have the sleeve hang perpendicular to the
floor. So wherever that line from the floor, running up the center of
the sleeve (the lengthwise grainline) hits the shoulder area is where
the center of your sleeve should be, no matter where you decide to put
the "shoulder" seam.

show/hide quoted text

--
I fear me you but warm the starved snake,
Who, cherished in your breasts, will sting your hearts. (Henry VI, Shakespeare)

Posted by Liz W on May 23, 2006, 1:37 pm

I'd like to thank all of you for your wonderful suggestions. The grain
line does seem to be a problem so after I hit "send" on this message
I'll be trying to put the sleeve back in with great care taken to the
line. I just received a copy of "Coutur Sewing Techniques" by Claire
Shaeffer. There is a chapter devoted to sleeves. I'll read that too.

Liz W

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