Sleeve fitting problem

Posted by Cheryl on July 14, 2009, 10:24 pm

As noted in an earlier message I have a problem with a sleeve on a new
shirt I am making. There are folds in the fabric running from the
sleeve cap diagonally down the sleeve. I have made many shirts from
this same pattern without problem. The fabric I am using is a lycra 4-
way stretch. I have also made this pattern in other lycras. I am
posting a link to a picture of the problem. If anyone can offer
suggestions, I would appreciate it very much.
Cheryl

http://s903.photobucket.com/albums/ac231/cakbu/

Posted by Kay Lancaster on July 15, 2009, 5:42 am

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Any chance of a side view, straight toward the sleeve cap, and a back view?

Is the fabric on grain or torqued?

Right now, my best guess is that the weight of the fabric is stretching the
sleeve cap, allowing the droopy effect under the arm. What happens if
you take some length out of the upper portion of the lengthwise seam of the
sleeve? Any help?

Did you compare the sleeve as cut to the pattern? Did
you cut the fabric on paper?

The only time I've seen this wrinkle pattern from an otherwise good
sleeve pattern was the time I was making a chiffon jacket and didn't realize
my mom had decided to tidy up for me and put the cut sleeves over the back
of a chair. The sleeves stretched from their own weight. :-(

Posted by Cheryl on July 15, 2009, 8:37 am

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4-
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he
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ize
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I will check these suggestions out this afternoon and get my husband
to snap some more pictures. Thank you.
Cheryl

Posted by Olwyn.Mary on July 16, 2009, 10:40 am

Cheryl wrote:
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In the picture, it looks as though the sleeve cap is too short.
However, as you have used this pattern successfully before, that cannot
be the case. Therefore, it must be that the upper portion of the sleeve
cap has stretched somehow. (4-way stretch fabric can be a bear
sometimes). So I would suggest you unpick the entire sleeve seam and pin
it back in, stretching the lower portion slightly to put more room in
the upper cap. It may take two attempts at pinning, followed by hand
basting, to get it right, but should work eventually.

Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.

Posted by W.Boyce on July 16, 2009, 10:50 am

Kay Lancaster wrote:

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I agree with Kay that the "hang" of fabric can cause wrinkling, or can
actually minimize it depending on the assembly sequence, especially
knits and 4-way stretch most of all.

But I disagree with her terminology in the question: "Is the fabric on
grain or torqued?"

Actually, the term "torque" is used to describe the defect itself in the
sleeve on the finished garment. The question she meant to ask is: "Is
the fabric cut long-grain, cross-grain, or bias-grain?"

The answer is probably: "cut on the bias-grain". If the pattern requires
it to be cut that way, allowing the sleeve it to hang for a day or so
before attaching it can help, for the same reason bias-cut knits should
hang before hemming to minimize these problems, as Kay observed in her
last statement. JPBill

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