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Posted by Cheryl on July 16, 2009, 4:47 pm
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> Kay Lancaster wrote:
> > Is the fabric on grain or torqued?
> > Right now, my best guess is that the weight of the fabric is stretching=
the
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> > sleeve cap, allowing the droopy effect under the arm. =A0What happens i=
f
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> > you take some length out of the upper portion of the lengthwise seam of=
the
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> > sleeve? =A0Any help? =A0
> > Did you compare the sleeve as cut to the pattern? =A0Did
> > you cut the fabric on paper?
> > The only time I've seen this wrinkle pattern from an otherwise good
> > sleeve pattern was the time I was making a chiffon jacket and didn't re=
alize
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> > my mom had decided to tidy up for me and put the cut sleeves over the b=
ack
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> > of a chair. =A0The sleeves stretched from their own weight. =A0:-(
> I agree with Kay that the "hang" of fabric can cause wrinkling, or can
> actually minimize it depending on the assembly sequence, especially
> knits and 4-way stretch most of all.
> But I disagree with her terminology in the question: "Is the fabric on
> grain or torqued?"
> Actually, the term "torque" is used to describe the defect itself in the
> sleeve on the finished garment. The question she meant to ask is: "Is
> the fabric cut long-grain, cross-grain, or bias-grain?"
> The answer is probably: "cut on the bias-grain". If the pattern requires
> it to be cut that way, allowing the sleeve it to hang for a day or so
> before attaching it can help, for the same reason bias-cut knits should
> hang before hemming to minimize these problems, as Kay observed in her
> last statement. =A0 =A0JPBill- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
Actually, I cut the sleeve, as well as bodice, on the crosswise
grain. I treated this like a border print, with the design running
around, rather than up and down. I am told that with a 4-way stretch,
it is appropriate to cut on the crosswise grain. Do you agree?
Cheryl
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Posted by Sharon Hays on July 16, 2009, 5:38 pm
Cheryl wrote:
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> Actually, I cut the sleeve, as well as bodice, on the crosswise
> grain. I treated this like a border print, with the design running
> around, rather than up and down. I am told that with a 4-way stretch,
> it is appropriate to cut on the crosswise grain. Do you agree?
> Cheryl
Ah!!! Mystery may be solved. All of the 4 way stretch I've ever worked
with has more stretch on the cross grain. That allows it to stretch more
around the body since stretch garments have little to no ease. But you
don't want them to stretch lengthwise or you end up with problems like your
sleeve.
It would be my guess that that little extra cross grain stretch is biting
you on the sleeve. I would recut and replace the sleeve if I had enough
fabric.
Sharon
--
Never try to teach a pig to sing. It's a waste of time and just annoys the
pig.
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Posted by Cheryl on July 16, 2009, 6:05 pm
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> Cheryl wrote:
> > Actually, I cut the sleeve, as well as bodice, on the crosswise
> > grain. =A0I treated this like a border print, with the design running
> > around, rather than up and down. =A0I am told that with a 4-way stretch=
,
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> > it is appropriate to cut on the crosswise grain. =A0Do you agree?
> > =A0 Cheryl
> Ah!!! =A0Mystery may be solved. =A0All of the 4 way stretch I've ever wor=
ked
show/hide quoted text
> with has more stretch on the cross grain. That allows it to stretch more
> around the body since stretch garments have little to no ease. =A0But you
> don't want them to stretch lengthwise or you end up with problems like yo=
ur
show/hide quoted text
> sleeve. =A0
> It would be my guess that that little extra cross grain stretch is biting
> you on the sleeve. =A0I would recut and replace the sleeve if I had enoug=
h
show/hide quoted text
> fabric.
> Sharon
> --
> Never try to teach a pig to sing. =A0It's a waste of time and just annoys=
the
show/hide quoted text
> pig.
Recut how? On the crossgrain, again, or on the lengthwise grain? If
I cut on the lengthwise, I will lose the pattern effect I was looking
for. Of course, that may be the only way to save the blouse???
Some more pictures at this link http://s903.photobucket.com/albums/ac231/c=
akbu/
Cheryl
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Posted by Betsy on July 17, 2009, 7:55 am
Cheryl wrote:
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>> Cheryl wrote:
>>> Actually, I cut the sleeve, as well as bodice, on the crosswise
>>> grain. I treated this like a border print, with the design running
>>> around, rather than up and down. I am told that with a 4-way stretch,
>>> it is appropriate to cut on the crosswise grain. Do you agree?
>>> Cheryl
>> Ah!!! Mystery may be solved. All of the 4 way stretch I've ever worked
>> with has more stretch on the cross grain. That allows it to stretch more
>> around the body since stretch garments have little to no ease. But you
>> don't want them to stretch lengthwise or you end up with problems like your
>> sleeve.
>> It would be my guess that that little extra cross grain stretch is biting
>> you on the sleeve. I would recut and replace the sleeve if I had enough
>> fabric.
>> Sharon
>> --
>> Never try to teach a pig to sing. It's a waste of time and just annoys the
>> pig.
>
> Recut how? On the crossgrain, again, or on the lengthwise grain? If
> I cut on the lengthwise, I will lose the pattern effect I was looking
> for. Of course, that may be the only way to save the blouse???
> Some more pictures at this link
http://s903.photobucket.com/albums/ac231/cakbu/
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> Cheryl
I love the color and can see why you would want to cut it out to take
advantage of the pattern.
If you can handle the extra weight, you might be able to get away with
stabilizing the whole thing with very lightweight knit interfacing.
I'm not sure that the effort involved in ripping it apart is worth it.
I would test on scraps first to see if it is possible to fuse without
damaging the fabric and to end up with the right stretch.
--Betsy
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Posted by Cheryl on July 17, 2009, 8:49 am
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> Cheryl wrote:
> >> Cheryl wrote:
> >>> Actually, I cut the sleeve, as well as bodice, on the crosswise
> >>> grain. =A0I treated this like a border print, with the design running
> >>> around, rather than up and down. =A0I am told that with a 4-way stret=
ch,
show/hide quoted text
> >>> it is appropriate to cut on the crosswise grain. =A0Do you agree?
> >>> =A0 Cheryl
> >> Ah!!! =A0Mystery may be solved. =A0All of the 4 way stretch I've ever =
worked
show/hide quoted text
> >> with has more stretch on the cross grain. That allows it to stretch mo=
re
show/hide quoted text
> >> around the body since stretch garments have little to no ease. =A0But =
you
show/hide quoted text
> >> don't want them to stretch lengthwise or you end up with problems like=
your
show/hide quoted text
> >> sleeve. =A0
> >> It would be my guess that that little extra cross grain stretch is bit=
ing
show/hide quoted text
> >> you on the sleeve. =A0I would recut and replace the sleeve if I had en=
ough
show/hide quoted text
> >> fabric.
> >> Sharon
> >> --
> >> Never try to teach a pig to sing. =A0It's a waste of time and just ann=
oys the
show/hide quoted text
> >> pig.
> > Recut how? =A0On the crossgrain, again, or on the lengthwise grain? =A0=
If
show/hide quoted text
> > I cut on the lengthwise, I will lose the pattern effect I was looking
> > for. =A0Of course, that may be the only way to save the blouse???
> > Some more pictures at this link =A0http://s903.photobucket.com/albums/a=
c231/cakbu/
show/hide quoted text
> > =A0 Cheryl
> I love the color and can see why you would want to cut it out to take
> advantage of the pattern.
> If you can handle the extra weight, you might be able to get away with
> stabilizing =A0the whole thing with very lightweight knit interfacing.
> I'm not sure that the effort involved in ripping it apart is worth it.
> I would test on scraps first to see if it is possible to fuse without
> damaging the fabric and to end up with the right stretch.
> --Betsy- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
This might be what I have to do if I want to keep the design running
in this direction. Taking the sleeve out is no problem as it is
machine basted in and I have not put the other sleeve in yet. Maybe I
will try interfacing the other sleeve and see what happens. Thank
you.
Cheryl
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> > Is the fabric on grain or torqued?
> > Right now, my best guess is that the weight of the fabric is stretching=