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Posted by Sharon Hays on July 17, 2009, 1:39 pm
Cheryl wrote:
show/hide quoted text
>> Cheryl wrote:
>> >> Cheryl wrote:
>> >>> Actually, I cut the sleeve, as well as bodice, on the crosswise
>> >>> grain. I treated this like a border print, with the design running
>> >>> around, rather than up and down. I am told that with a 4-way
>> >>> stretch, it is appropriate to cut on the crosswise grain. Do you
>> >>> agree? Cheryl
>> >> Ah!!! Mystery may be solved. All of the 4 way stretch I've ever
>> >> worked with has more stretch on the cross grain. That allows it to
>> >> stretch more around the body since stretch garments have little to no
>> >> ease. But you don't want them to stretch lengthwise or you end up
>> >> with problems like your sleeve.
>> >> It would be my guess that that little extra cross grain stretch is
>> >> biting you on the sleeve. I would recut and replace the sleeve if I
>> >> had enough fabric.
>> >> Sharon
>> >> --
>> >> Never try to teach a pig to sing. It's a waste of time and just
>> >> annoys the pig.
>> > Recut how? On the crossgrain, again, or on the lengthwise grain? If
>> > I cut on the lengthwise, I will lose the pattern effect I was looking
>> > for. Of course, that may be the only way to save the blouse???
>> > Some more pictures at this link
>> > http://s903.photobucket.com/albums/ac231/cakbu/ Cheryl
>> I love the color and can see why you would want to cut it out to take
>> advantage of the pattern.
>> If you can handle the extra weight, you might be able to get away with
>> stabilizing the whole thing with very lightweight knit interfacing.
>> I'm not sure that the effort involved in ripping it apart is worth it.
>> I would test on scraps first to see if it is possible to fuse without
>> damaging the fabric and to end up with the right stretch.
>> --Betsy- Hide quoted text -
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> This might be what I have to do if I want to keep the design running
> in this direction. Taking the sleeve out is no problem as it is
> machine basted in and I have not put the other sleeve in yet. Maybe I
> will try interfacing the other sleeve and see what happens. Thank
> you.
> Cheryl
I hope that works for you. Yes, I meant recut it ongrain rather than
crossgrain. I hope you can save this blouse. But it's all in what you
learn from each project. Sometimes, you can get away with cutting things
crossgrain. But now you know what can happen with 4 way stretch if you do.
Sharon
--
Never try to teach a pig to sing. It's a waste of time and just annoys the
pig.
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Posted by Kay Lancaster on July 16, 2009, 10:42 pm
show/hide quoted text
> It would be my guess that that little extra cross grain stretch is biting
> you on the sleeve. I would recut and replace the sleeve if I had enough
> fabric.
I'm with Sharon on this, having now learned it's a 4-way stretch...
recutting is probably the way out.
Kay
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Posted by Kay Lancaster on July 16, 2009, 10:42 pm
show/hide quoted text
> Kay Lancaster wrote:
>> Is the fabric on grain or torqued?
> I agree with Kay that the "hang" of fabric can cause wrinkling, or can
> actually minimize it depending on the assembly sequence, especially
> knits and 4-way stretch most of all.
> But I disagree with her terminology in the question: "Is the fabric on
> grain or torqued?"
> Actually, the term "torque" is used to describe the defect itself in the
> sleeve on the finished garment. The question she meant to ask is: "Is
> the fabric cut long-grain, cross-grain, or bias-grain?"
Actually, I meant, was the fabric on grain, or (if a woven), are the warp and
weft 90 degrees to each other, or have they been torqued (twisted) during
so they are no longer at 90 degrees? You can also see torqued knits,
particularly those knitted on circular machines. If you examine the wales on
some knits, the wales are not parallel to the "selvages". Which can be a
problem when cutting if you don't notice it.
Sleeves are traditionally cut on the long grain for economy and good hang;
on the cross grain for decorative purposes, though they'll often not
hang very well, and on the bias for close-fit or specific design. They will
often hang funny on the bias unless the sleeve is split and you use opposing
bias.
The sleeve can also be torqued by mis-inserting the sleeve in the armscye,
but the midline of the sleeve doesn't look like that's true in this
instance.
Kay
show/hide quoted text
> The answer is probably: "cut on the bias-grain". If the pattern requires
> it to be cut that way, allowing the sleeve it to hang for a day or so
> before attaching it can help, for the same reason bias-cut knits should
> hang before hemming to minimize these problems, as Kay observed in her
> last statement. JPBill
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Posted by Cheryl on July 17, 2009, 8:53 am
show/hide quoted text
> > Kay Lancaster wrote:
> >> Is the fabric on grain or torqued?
> > I agree with Kay that the "hang" of fabric can cause wrinkling, or can
> > actually minimize it depending on the assembly sequence, especially
> > knits and 4-way stretch most of all.
> > But I disagree with her terminology in the question: "Is the fabric on
> > grain or torqued?"
> > Actually, the term "torque" is used to describe the defect itself in th=
e
show/hide quoted text
> > sleeve on the finished garment. The question she meant to ask is: "Is
> > the fabric cut long-grain, cross-grain, or bias-grain?"
> Actually, I meant, was the fabric on grain, or (if a woven), are the warp=
and
show/hide quoted text
> weft 90 degrees to each other, or have they been torqued (twisted) during
> so they are no longer at 90 degrees? =A0You can also see torqued knits,
> particularly those knitted on circular machines. If you examine the wales=
on
show/hide quoted text
> some knits, the wales are not parallel to the "selvages". =A0Which can be=
a
show/hide quoted text
> problem when cutting if you don't notice it. =A0
> Sleeves are traditionally cut on the long grain for economy and good hang=
;
show/hide quoted text
> on the cross grain for decorative purposes, though they'll often not
> hang very well, and on the bias for close-fit or specific design. =A0They=
will
show/hide quoted text
> often hang funny on the bias unless the sleeve is split and you use oppos=
ing
show/hide quoted text
> bias.
> The sleeve can also be torqued by mis-inserting the sleeve in the armscye=
,
show/hide quoted text
> but the midline of the sleeve doesn't look like that's true in this
> instance.
> Kay
> > The answer is probably: "cut on the bias-grain". If the pattern require=
s
show/hide quoted text
> > it to be cut that way, allowing the sleeve it to hang for a day or so
> > before attaching it can help, for the same reason bias-cut knits should
> > hang before hemming to minimize these problems, as Kay observed in her
> > last statement. =A0 =A0JPBill- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
The fabric seems to be on grain. I have inserted the correct sleeve
to the armscye. I was very careful when inserting to not stretch the
fabric. I may try what Betsy suggested and line the sleeve to give it
stability. Thank you for your suggestions.
Cheryl
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Posted by BEI Design on July 15, 2009, 5:49 am
Cheryl wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> As noted in an earlier message I have a problem with a
> sleeve on a new shirt I am making. There are folds in
> the fabric running from the sleeve cap diagonally down
> the sleeve. I have made many shirts from this same
> pattern without problem. The fabric I am using is a
> lycra 4- way stretch. I have also made this pattern in
> other lycras. I am posting a link to a picture of the
> problem. If anyone can offer suggestions, I would
> appreciate it very much. Cheryl
> http://s903.photobucket.com/albums/ac231/cakbu/
That's not loading for me at the moment, but Comcast is
slower than snails this morning.
--
Beverly
http://ickes.us/default.aspx
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Page 3 of 4 < 1 2 3 > last >>
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>> >> Cheryl wrote:
>> >>> Actually, I cut the sleeve, as well as bodice, on the crosswise
>> >>> grain. I treated this like a border print, with the design running
>> >>> around, rather than up and down. I am told that with a 4-way
>> >>> stretch, it is appropriate to cut on the crosswise grain. Do you
>> >>> agree? Cheryl
>> >> Ah!!! Mystery may be solved. All of the 4 way stretch I've ever
>> >> worked with has more stretch on the cross grain. That allows it to
>> >> stretch more around the body since stretch garments have little to no
>> >> ease. But you don't want them to stretch lengthwise or you end up
>> >> with problems like your sleeve.
>> >> It would be my guess that that little extra cross grain stretch is
>> >> biting you on the sleeve. I would recut and replace the sleeve if I
>> >> had enough fabric.
>> >> Sharon
>> >> --
>> >> Never try to teach a pig to sing. It's a waste of time and just
>> >> annoys the pig.
>> > Recut how? On the crossgrain, again, or on the lengthwise grain? If
>> > I cut on the lengthwise, I will lose the pattern effect I was looking
>> > for. Of course, that may be the only way to save the blouse???
>> > Some more pictures at this link
>> > http://s903.photobucket.com/albums/ac231/cakbu/ Cheryl
>> I love the color and can see why you would want to cut it out to take
>> advantage of the pattern.
>> If you can handle the extra weight, you might be able to get away with
>> stabilizing the whole thing with very lightweight knit interfacing.
>> I'm not sure that the effort involved in ripping it apart is worth it.
>> I would test on scraps first to see if it is possible to fuse without
>> damaging the fabric and to end up with the right stretch.
>> --Betsy- Hide quoted text -
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> This might be what I have to do if I want to keep the design running
> in this direction. Taking the sleeve out is no problem as it is
> machine basted in and I have not put the other sleeve in yet. Maybe I
> will try interfacing the other sleeve and see what happens. Thank
> you.
> Cheryl