Sponging Wool?
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Sponging Wool? Seeker 03-04-2006
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Posted by Seeker on March 4, 2006, 2:47 pm

Can anyone explain why sponged wool, and what is the process? I've
been looking around http://www.manhattanfabrics.com and have run
across fabric descriptions where wool is double sponged, fully
sponged, etc. This is a high end fabric store in the NYC garment
district. I've never heard of sponging wool before.

Thanks,
Sharon

Posted by WB on March 4, 2006, 4:03 pm
Seeker wrote:
> Can anyone explain why sponged wool, and what is the process? I've
> been looking around http://www.manhattanfabrics.com and have run
> across fabric descriptions where wool is double sponged, fully
> sponged, etc. This is a high end fabric store in the NYC garment
> district. I've never heard of sponging wool before.
>
> Thanks,
> Sharon

Sponging is the partial shrinking of wool by application of moisture in
preparation for sewing your garment. Purchased woolen material of
quality will tell if the wool has been so treated and the degree. When
in doubt, you can sponge it yourself.

I use the procedure outlined in Margolis'
Complete Book of Tailoring, (Doubleday 1964, 1978 rev.) which is as follows:

1. Straighten the grain.

2. Fold material inhalf lengthwise, with the right sides together. Pin
or baste together both straightened edges and both selvages.

3. Make a sponging cloth at least 40 in. wide to accommodate te width of
the folded fabric and nong enouth to cover it all. Old sheets willdo, or
a length of washable cotton bought just for the purpose. (Remove any
sizing and lint if new material)

4.Wet 1/3 of the sponging cloth. Starting at the wet end, roll the
entire length. Let it rest until the cloth in damp (not wet) as if for
ironing.

5. Spread oit the sponging cloth on a large flat surface. Place the
fabric on the cloth in a perfect rectange. Smooth out any wrinkles so
that the fabric is perfectly flat.

6. Fold the ends of the sponging cloth over the fabric.

7. Roll the entire length of woll and spongind cloth, or fold loosely
into sections from both ends to meet in the center.

8. Cover the roll or the folds completely with a towel, brown paper, or
best of all, a plastic bag. Dry cleaner bags are fine. Covering prevents
the outer layers from drying while the inner layers remain damp, which
would cause uneven treatment.

9. Let stand for several hurs. Tailoring experts say 3-4 hours are
sufficient. The Wool Bureau recommends 6-8 hrs. fof light woolens,
longer for heavier. Avoid overshrinking.

10. When moisture has been absorbed, unroll the wool and lay out flat to
dry. Smooth wrinkles. Straighten grain if needed. If you don't have a
large enough flat surface for drying, hang the wool over a door or
shower rod well padded with towels. Turn the wool once during the drying
process as if you are drying a sweater. Let it dry naturally. Pressing
the fabric dry may make it stiff or misalign the grain which you've
taken pains to keep straight.

11. If necessary to remove wrinkling after wool is sry, press it on
wrong side using a press cloth. Press with the grain to within 1" of
center fold. Do not press fold. Open the fabric and press the center
section.

One nice thing about having factory of a service sponge the fabric for
you is that in comes back in a beautifully finished state, "ready for
the needle", which is one way that merchants sometimes describe factory
sponged wool.

jpBill

Posted by Seeker on March 4, 2006, 4:47 pm

>Seeker wrote:
>> Can anyone explain why sponged wool, and what is the process? I've
>> been looking around http://www.manhattanfabrics.com and have run
>> across fabric descriptions where wool is double sponged, fully
>> sponged, etc. This is a high end fabric store in the NYC garment
>> district. I've never heard of sponging wool before.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Sharon
>
>Sponging is the partial shrinking of wool by application of moisture in
>preparation for sewing your garment. Purchased woolen material of
>quality will tell if the wool has been so treated and the degree. When
>in doubt, you can sponge it yourself.
>
>I use the procedure outlined in Margolis'
>Complete Book of Tailoring, (Doubleday 1964, 1978 rev.) which is as follows:
>
>1. Straighten the grain.
>
>2. Fold material inhalf lengthwise, with the right sides together. Pin
>or baste together both straightened edges and both selvages.
>
>3. Make a sponging cloth at least 40 in. wide to accommodate te width of
>the folded fabric and nong enouth to cover it all. Old sheets willdo, or
>a length of washable cotton bought just for the purpose. (Remove any
>sizing and lint if new material)
>
>4.Wet 1/3 of the sponging cloth. Starting at the wet end, roll the
>entire length. Let it rest until the cloth in damp (not wet) as if for
>ironing.
>
>5. Spread oit the sponging cloth on a large flat surface. Place the
>fabric on the cloth in a perfect rectange. Smooth out any wrinkles so
>that the fabric is perfectly flat.
>
>6. Fold the ends of the sponging cloth over the fabric.
>
>7. Roll the entire length of woll and spongind cloth, or fold loosely
>into sections from both ends to meet in the center.
>
>8. Cover the roll or the folds completely with a towel, brown paper, or
>best of all, a plastic bag. Dry cleaner bags are fine. Covering prevents
>the outer layers from drying while the inner layers remain damp, which
>would cause uneven treatment.
>
>9. Let stand for several hurs. Tailoring experts say 3-4 hours are
>sufficient. The Wool Bureau recommends 6-8 hrs. fof light woolens,
>longer for heavier. Avoid overshrinking.
>
>10. When moisture has been absorbed, unroll the wool and lay out flat to
>dry. Smooth wrinkles. Straighten grain if needed. If you don't have a
>large enough flat surface for drying, hang the wool over a door or
>shower rod well padded with towels. Turn the wool once during the drying
>process as if you are drying a sweater. Let it dry naturally. Pressing
>the fabric dry may make it stiff or misalign the grain which you've
>taken pains to keep straight.
>
>11. If necessary to remove wrinkling after wool is sry, press it on
>wrong side using a press cloth. Press with the grain to within 1" of
>center fold. Do not press fold. Open the fabric and press the center
>section.
>
>One nice thing about having factory of a service sponge the fabric for
>you is that in comes back in a beautifully finished state, "ready for
>the needle", which is one way that merchants sometimes describe factory
>sponged wool.
>
>jpBill

Many thanks for taking the time to type all that! It's terrific info -
very detailed, and I'm going to print it out to put in my notebook for
permanent reference. It explains why the wool is so expensive. Very
labor intensive. The only treatment I'd ever heard of before was brief
instructions to dampen towels and roll the fabric up in them, letting
it sit for a while before pressing. Oh, and to steam press the wool (a
shortcut?).

Your tailoring book must be terrific. I don't imagine there are many
around like it any more.

Sharon

Posted by WB on March 4, 2006, 5:58 pm
Seeker wrote:
>
>
>>Seeker wrote:
>>
>>>Can anyone explain why sponged wool, and what is the process? I've
>>>been looking around http://www.manhattanfabrics.com and have run
>>>across fabric descriptions where wool is double sponged, fully
>>>sponged, etc. This is a high end fabric store in the NYC garment
>>>district. I've never heard of sponging wool before.
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>Sharon
>>
>>Sponging is the partial shrinking of wool by application of moisture in
>>preparation for sewing your garment. Purchased woolen material of
>>quality will tell if the wool has been so treated and the degree. When
>>in doubt, you can sponge it yourself.
>>
>>I use the procedure outlined in Margolis'
>>Complete Book of Tailoring, (Doubleday 1964, 1978 rev.) which is as follows:
>>
>>1. Straighten the grain.
>>
>>2. Fold material inhalf lengthwise, with the right sides together. Pin
>>or baste together both straightened edges and both selvages.
>>
>>3. Make a sponging cloth at least 40 in. wide to accommodate te width of
>>the folded fabric and nong enouth to cover it all. Old sheets willdo, or
>>a length of washable cotton bought just for the purpose. (Remove any
>>sizing and lint if new material)
>>
>>4.Wet 1/3 of the sponging cloth. Starting at the wet end, roll the
>>entire length. Let it rest until the cloth in damp (not wet) as if for
>>ironing.
>>
>>5. Spread oit the sponging cloth on a large flat surface. Place the
>>fabric on the cloth in a perfect rectange. Smooth out any wrinkles so
>>that the fabric is perfectly flat.
>>
>>6. Fold the ends of the sponging cloth over the fabric.
>>
>>7. Roll the entire length of woll and spongind cloth, or fold loosely
>>into sections from both ends to meet in the center.
>>
>>8. Cover the roll or the folds completely with a towel, brown paper, or
>>best of all, a plastic bag. Dry cleaner bags are fine. Covering prevents
>>the outer layers from drying while the inner layers remain damp, which
>>would cause uneven treatment.
>>
>>9. Let stand for several hurs. Tailoring experts say 3-4 hours are
>>sufficient. The Wool Bureau recommends 6-8 hrs. fof light woolens,
>>longer for heavier. Avoid overshrinking.
>>
>>10. When moisture has been absorbed, unroll the wool and lay out flat to
>>dry. Smooth wrinkles. Straighten grain if needed. If you don't have a
>>large enough flat surface for drying, hang the wool over a door or
>>shower rod well padded with towels. Turn the wool once during the drying
>>process as if you are drying a sweater. Let it dry naturally. Pressing
>>the fabric dry may make it stiff or misalign the grain which you've
>>taken pains to keep straight.
>>
>>11. If necessary to remove wrinkling after wool is sry, press it on
>>wrong side using a press cloth. Press with the grain to within 1" of
>>center fold. Do not press fold. Open the fabric and press the center
>>section.
>>
>>One nice thing about having factory of a service sponge the fabric for
>>you is that in comes back in a beautifully finished state, "ready for
>>the needle", which is one way that merchants sometimes describe factory
>>sponged wool.
>>
>>jpBill
>
>
> Many thanks for taking the time to type all that! It's terrific info -
> very detailed, and I'm going to print it out to put in my notebook for
> permanent reference. It explains why the wool is so expensive. Very
> labor intensive. The only treatment I'd ever heard of before was brief
> instructions to dampen towels and roll the fabric up in them, letting
> it sit for a while before pressing. Oh, and to steam press the wool (a
> shortcut?).
>
> Your tailoring book must be terrific. I don't imagine there are many
> around like it any more.
>
> Sharon

You are most welcome. On the point of steam pressing you mentioned as a
possible alternative, my book says: "Steam pressing is not enough to do
the trick. Cleaning before cutting is a good possibility though
reluctance to do this is very understandable"

I guess "dry" cleaning induces partial shrinkage or conditions the
material at least against later shrinkage.

Yes, the book is an oldie but a goodie. Probably out of print and I got
mine on the internet using Bibliofind or Amazon used books on the
recommendation of a tailor.

jpBill

Posted by Karen Maslowski on March 6, 2006, 8:03 am
Wool is also expensive because it takes a lot more steps to produce. The
wool has to be sheared from the sheep, then carded to remove the bits of
vegetation and separated into levels of quality (different parts of the
sheep produce different qualities of wool). Then it has to be spun into
yarns and woven into fabric. In addition, the wool has to be dyed; this
process does not occur in synthetics, as the color for synthetic fabric
is added before the fibers are created (except in printed fabrics).

I teach a class on wool at sewing expos (just started), and have learned
a lot about this amazing fabric. It's the ultimate renewable and
recyclable fiber, and will last forever if you take proper care of it.
It's the easiest fabric to sew, and comes in a dizzying array of kinds
of fabric, from the lightest sheer to the thickest coating. If given a
choice between any cheap synthetic and wool, I will take wool every time.

Wool is also highly absorbent (more so than any other fiber), and can be
comfortable even in hot weather. My last show was in Clearwater,
Florida, and I wore wool garments every single day of the show and was
comfortable every day, even outdoors (except while wearing black in
direct sunlight, which is not recommended!). You wouldn't say that about
polyester! It breathes, too. unlike most synthetics.

Many people think they are allergic to wool, but it's non-allergenic.
Those who believe they are allergic have not been exposed to the higher
grades of wool, which do not have the irritating fibers of cheap
woolens. My infant grandson got a violent rash from being held against a
friend's rough wool sweater, but slept comfortably on a sheepskin. In
fact, he love the sheepskin so much that we put him on it if we wanted
to calm him down, or get him to sleep.

If you want an excellent book on wool, complete with samples of 35
different kinds, I highly recommend "All About Wool", in the Fabric
Dictionary series written by Julie Parker.

Karen Maslowski in Cincinnati
www.sewstorm.com

Seeker wrote:
>
>> Seeker wrote:
>>> Can anyone explain why sponged wool, and what is the process? I've
>>> been looking around http://www.manhattanfabrics.com and have run
>>> across fabric descriptions where wool is double sponged, fully
>>> sponged, etc. This is a high end fabric store in the NYC garment
>>> district. I've never heard of sponging wool before.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Sharon
>> Sponging is the partial shrinking of wool by application of moisture in
>> preparation for sewing your garment. Purchased woolen material of
>> quality will tell if the wool has been so treated and the degree. When
>> in doubt, you can sponge it yourself.
>>
>> I use the procedure outlined in Margolis'
>> Complete Book of Tailoring, (Doubleday 1964, 1978 rev.) which is as follows:
>>
>> 1. Straighten the grain.
>>
>> 2. Fold material inhalf lengthwise, with the right sides together. Pin
>> or baste together both straightened edges and both selvages.
>>
>> 3. Make a sponging cloth at least 40 in. wide to accommodate te width of
>> the folded fabric and nong enouth to cover it all. Old sheets willdo, or
>> a length of washable cotton bought just for the purpose. (Remove any
430 No such article
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