If you were Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
|
Posted by BEI Design on January 9, 2009, 3:19 pm
Kate XXXXXX wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> BEI Design wrote:
> > Kay Lancaster wrote:
> > > FWIW, I prefer 0.5-0.75", unless the person has
> > > remarkable muscle mass in the shoulders. The sleeve
> > > slides in and hangs well.
> > > Kay
> > I have about 1" ease built into the cap right now, I may
> > take a little more out at the back (or the front) sleeve
> > seam of the two-piece sleeve, I can take it out and
> > taper to the elbow without a major re-do.
> > Thanks,
> > Beverly
> I usually cut a long thin wedge out of the sleeve cap and
> lower it, truing up the seam line. I have quite heavy
> arms (all that book and sewing machine carrying, and
> swimming!) and this takes the excess ease out without
> compromising the sleeve circumference at the point I need
> it most.
These sleeve pieces are already cut out, after having made
major adjustments to the cap in order to incorporate an
"underarm gusset without the extra seam" so that DGD can
raise her hands above her head without pulling the body up
too.
Like this:
http://www.tartantown.com/dancedir.htm
The ones on that site are made *with* a gusset, but the best
imported jackets are made with a one-piece alteration to the
underarm portion of the sleeve. I finally got my hands on
one of the imported ones (owned by the National Champion) so
that I could work out how its done.
You can sort of see in the pictures here:
http://www.tartantown.com/product1119.html
the extra bulk of the gusset.
Complicated? Why yes... ;-}
Beverly
|
|
Posted by Kay Lancaster on January 8, 2009, 5:42 pm
On Thu, 8 Jan 2009 08:36:30 -0800 (PST),
show/hide quoted text
> I don't think I understand the L-shaped pocket/dart. Kay, are you
> there???
I suspect it's the chest/waist dart, which typically ends in the pocket welt.
Not quite an L, but close.
You can see it here if you go for the enlarged view:
http://tinyurl.com/8rsm6l
which is:
http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchan
t_Id=1&Section_Id=678&Product_Id=1002697&Parent_Id=217&def
ault_color=Camel
I draft by hand, so I figure I'd better stay out of the tailormade
show/hide quoted text
questions. It's all easier by hand, imo. <g>
Kathleen Fasanella has posted a couple of nice tutorials, one on the lining
corner and one on single welt pockets:
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/nameless_tutorial_7/
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/nameless_tutorial_8/
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-to-sew-a-single-welt-pocket/
Kate, English Cut has some inside out jacket photos up on the home page
with the inside breast pocket:
http://www.englishcut.com/
ooh! You can see the dart to the side pocket nicely in the double breasted
farther down on the page.
Kay
|
|
Posted by Kate XXXXXX on January 8, 2009, 6:50 pm
Kay Lancaster wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> On Thu, 8 Jan 2009 08:36:30 -0800 (PST),
>> I don't think I understand the L-shaped pocket/dart. Kay, are you
>> there???
>
> I suspect it's the chest/waist dart, which typically ends in the pocket welt.
> Not quite an L, but close.
That's the bunny!
show/hide quoted text
>
> You can see it here if you go for the enlarged view:
> http://tinyurl.com/8rsm6l
> which is:
> http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchan
> t_Id=1&Section_Id=678&Product_Id=1002697&Parent_Id=217&def
> ault_color=Camel
>
> I draft by hand, so I figure I'd better stay out of the tailormade
But slower, and I lack the time...
show/hide quoted text
>
> Kathleen Fasanella has posted a couple of nice tutorials, one on the lining
> corner and one on single welt pockets:
> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/nameless_tutorial_7/
> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/nameless_tutorial_8/
> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-to-sew-a-single-welt-pocket/
Some interesting ideas there, and neat work, though her samples are all
on very light weight suitings, which makes it easier...
show/hide quoted text
>
> Kate, English Cut has some inside out jacket photos up on the home page
> with the inside breast pocket:
> http://www.englishcut.com/
> ooh! You can see the dart to the side pocket nicely in the double breasted
> farther down on the page.
I love that site. I've had it bookmarked for AGES and keep going back
to it.
I love the idea of the piping round the lining, and may incorporate some
of that in the 'good' suit... No time this time round!
--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
|
|
Posted by Kate XXXXXX on January 8, 2009, 7:02 pm
Brain in danger of imploding: has become black hole for tailoring details!
I haz bed. G'nite!
--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
|
|
Posted by BEI Design on January 8, 2009, 7:22 pm
Kate XXXXXX wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> Brain in danger of imploding: has become black hole for
> tailoring details!
> I haz bed. G'nite!
Sleep well, awake refreshed and ready to tackle the suit!
Beverly
|
Page 5 of 6 < 1 2 3 > last >>
| Similar Threads | Posted | | NATIONAL (made in Japan) A-288 Questions / Opinions | August 2, 2005, 5:09 pm |
| Seamstress or Tailor | December 8, 2008, 10:03 am |
| do you think i can ask a tailor to shorten this blouse? | June 21, 2007, 10:01 pm |
| Seamstress or Tailor wanted | December 7, 2008, 4:55 pm |
| Tailor Professional sewing machine help | November 9, 2005, 5:25 pm |
| Tailor Professional machine help needed | September 6, 2009, 11:28 pm |
| Custom tailor(s) in Washington D.C. - references requested | October 17, 2005, 5:20 pm |
| Online Desi Tailor-Shalwar Kameez with your Cloth Piece! | November 28, 2005, 4:40 pm |
| "How It's Made" | July 20, 2005, 9:06 pm |
| Re: Now you made the Pope mad.......... | June 20, 2006, 8:55 pm |
|
|
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap
> > Kay Lancaster wrote:
> > > FWIW, I prefer 0.5-0.75", unless the person has
> > > remarkable muscle mass in the shoulders. The sleeve
> > > slides in and hangs well.
> > > Kay
> > I have about 1" ease built into the cap right now, I may
> > take a little more out at the back (or the front) sleeve
> > seam of the two-piece sleeve, I can take it out and
> > taper to the elbow without a major re-do.
> > Thanks,
> > Beverly
> I usually cut a long thin wedge out of the sleeve cap and
> lower it, truing up the seam line. I have quite heavy
> arms (all that book and sewing machine carrying, and
> swimming!) and this takes the excess ease out without
> compromising the sleeve circumference at the point I need
> it most.