Trouser Side Pockets
.: Groups .:. Search .:. About :.
User Password
Register Now! Lost Password?

Sewing Discussions - A group that is not as it seams. 

Page 1 of 7       1 2 3 > last >> Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
Trouser Side Pockets Jack Schmidling 06-13-2006
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by Jack Schmidling on June 13, 2006, 12:37 am
I have made about ten pairs of trousers and shorts and have yet to get
the side pockets right.

The bottom joint where everything comes together never does and I have
to mush over it with a fine zig zag.

It looks so simple when studying a commercial pair but putting it into
practice is a different matter.

Any ideas?

js

--
PHOTO OF THE WEEK: http://schmidling.com/pow.htm
Astronomy, Beer, Cheese, Fiber,Gems, Sausage,Silver http://schmidling.com

Posted by Kate Dicey on June 13, 2006, 4:15 am
Jack Schmidling wrote:
> I have made about ten pairs of trousers and shorts and have yet to get
> the side pockets right.
>
> The bottom joint where everything comes together never does and I have
> to mush over it with a fine zig zag.
>
> It looks so simple when studying a commercial pair but putting it into
> practice is a different matter.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> js
>
Jack, ate these traditional gents slacks type pockets? What I do is
assemble the pocket bag and attach to the front of the trouser leg
before sewing the side seam. Then I just clean finish the edge (wide
zigzag in the old days, serger now) and press it flat. Then I press the
seam to the back and top stitch down the back piece about 1/4" from the
seam line. For suit trousers (where you don't want top stitching) I
assemble the pocket bag in the same way and clean finish the edge of
each piece before sewing and pressing the side seam, which gets pressed
open.

For casual inseam pockets, you attach the front half and back half of
the pocket bag to each half of the leg, clean finish that bit of seam,
and then sew the side/pocket seam in one, clean finish the edge, and
press the whole thing to the front.

Hope this helps - yell if you want more details. I take it you aren't
using a commercial pattern with instructions?
--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

Posted by jack@schmidling.com on June 13, 2006, 3:21 pm

Kate Dicey wrote:

> Jack, ate these traditional gents slacks type pockets?

I guess but I am having trouble understanding the definitions of
pockets.

It is an inseam pocket but it is slanted a bit as a result of the way
the front is attached to the back facing. It is about an inch forward
of the side seam so I do not know if this qualifies as a slant pocket.

I have worked over several instrustion sets and they all are different
enough to create some confusion.

The Simplicity instructions in the basic pattern makes the bag with
facings attached, French seam and then stitches this into the side
seams. The problem is at the bottom of the opening, all seams end at
the dot but it is impossible to layer things neatly and I usually end
up with an opening I can stick my finger through.

The Reader's Digest book has a two piece bag, each piece of which is
stitched to the appropriate side before constructing the pocket.

CTT is a variation on the first but the pocket is vertical and hard to
get the hand into and the waist came out too small because of the lack
of that one inch space described above.

I just did the second pocket on shorts I am making and stitched the two
sides of the bag in and then did the French seam and this seems to have
worked much better. I also went about an inch below the the dot and
wonder if this might be the whole problem, vis., stitching up to and
down from the dot as in Simplicity provedes no overlap.

>What I do is
> assemble the pocket bag and attach to the front of the trouser leg
> before sewing the side seam.

Is this French seamed already?

I am leaving the rest of this so I can send it to myself and read off
line.

................

Then I just clean finish the edge (wide
> zigzag in the old days, serger now) and press it flat. Then I press the
> seam to the back and top stitch down the back piece about 1/4" from the
> seam line. For suit trousers (where you don't want top stitching) I
> assemble the pocket bag in the same way and clean finish the edge of
> each piece before sewing and pressing the side seam, which gets pressed
> open.
>
> For casual inseam pockets, you attach the front half and back half of
> the pocket bag to each half of the leg, clean finish that bit of seam,
> and then sew the side/pocket seam in one, clean finish the edge, and
> press the whole thing to the front.
>
> Hope this helps - yell if you want more details. I take it you aren't
> using a commercial pattern with instructions?
> --
> Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
> Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
> http://www.katedicey.co.uk
> Click on Kate's Pages and explore!


Posted by Kate Dicey on June 13, 2006, 6:08 pm
jack@schmidling.com wrote:

> Kate Dicey wrote:
>
>
>>Jack, ate these traditional gents slacks type pockets?
>
>
> I guess but I am having trouble understanding the definitions of
> pockets.
>
> It is an inseam pocket but it is slanted a bit as a result of the way
> the front is attached to the back facing. It is about an inch forward
> of the side seam so I do not know if this qualifies as a slant pocket.

A traditional slant pocket is formed at the side seam. The top of the
pocket, where the front of the trouser joins the back is an inch or so
forward of the side seam, to allow access. The bit of the pocket bag
thus exposed is disguised with a facing in the face (outer) fabric.
>
> I have worked over several instrustion sets and they all are different
> enough to create some confusion.

The best I have seen so far were those in the Vogue gents suit pattern.
>
> The Simplicity instructions in the basic pattern makes the bag with
> facings attached, French seam and then stitches this into the side
> seams. The problem is at the bottom of the opening, all seams end at
> the dot but it is impossible to layer things neatly and I usually end
> up with an opening I can stick my finger through.

Which pattern number is this?
>
> The Reader's Digest book has a two piece bag, each piece of which is
> stitched to the appropriate side before constructing the pocket.

Not finished to look like suit or slacks pockets, then.
>
> CTT is a variation on the first but the pocket is vertical and hard to
> get the hand into and the waist came out too small because of the lack
> of that one inch space described above.

The inch should in no way be added to the waist circumference: it is
taken OFF the front of the trousers to expose the inside of the pocket
with the face fabric applied to disguise it. It sounds like a
misreading of the instructions has lead to this inch being closed up
rather than allowed to lie flat.
>
> I just did the second pocket on shorts I am making and stitched the two
> sides of the bag in and then did the French seam and this seems to have
> worked much better. I also went about an inch below the the dot and
> wonder if this might be the whole problem, vis., stitching up to and
> down from the dot as in Simplicity provedes no overlap.

I'm not at all sure what you are getting at. I stitch the pocket in
place, from top to bottom, then start at the waistband, swivel at a
point 5/8ths down the pocket bag, go round it to a similar point at the
bottom of the pocket, swivel again and continue down the seam.

This makes a great pocket for summer shorts, dresses, and anywhere that
a loose but hidden pocket can be let into a seam.
>
>
>>What I do is
>>assemble the pocket bag and attach to the front of the trouser leg
>>before sewing the side seam.
>
>
> Is this French seamed already?

No French seams involved. They are too bulky for this, and don't go
well round the pocket curves.
>
> I am leaving the rest of this so I can send it to myself and read off
> line.
>

:)


--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

Posted by cea on June 13, 2006, 8:28 am

Jack Schmidling wrote:
> I have made about ten pairs of trousers and shorts and have yet to get
> the side pockets right.
>
> The bottom joint where everything comes together never does and I have
> to mush over it with a fine zig zag
---
Jack, are you referring to the pocket area at the hip side seam, at
the lower outside edge of the pocket lip? (This is why the standard
sewing/construction vocabulary is so important--I'm not sure which area
of the pocket you are referring to.)
If so, and, assuming this is a slant-edge pocket, it's possible that
you are stretching the upper edge of the pocket, which is cut almost on
the bias, and is therefore fairly stretchy to begin with. It can be
further stretched during cutting or handling, as well as during sewing.
Commercial pant(s) most often have a very small strip of stabilizer
sewn into the bias edge of the seam during construction, which
eliminates stretching during the sewing process. The trick to this: cut
stabilizer to fit pattern piece; handle all bias/semi-bias pieces
carefully; be sure the sewn pocket piece is still the same size as the
pattern--if not, trim slightly, or re-work so that the edge is the same
dimensions as the pattern and actual pant(s) edge. One cannot ease
these edge pieces to fit--too much bulk.
I used to taks pants apart frequently to re-place the whole pocket
bag, until I learned that it is a perfectly acceptable practice to sew
in a 3/4 or 1/2 pocket bag from just above the bag tears. Youse guys
and yer keys!
Cea


Page 1 of 7       1 2 3 > last >>
Similar ThreadsPosted
right side of fleece September 17, 2005, 3:50 pm
Scarves at your side !!!! August 4, 2008, 12:05 am
OT: Eve's side of the story.... September 30, 2006, 2:23 am
right side of fleece question December 4, 2006, 10:43 am
No-sew trouser hook and bar February 18, 2008, 9:53 pm
prosthesis pockets in bras June 17, 2007, 7:36 pm
help with sewing a side gusset into a leather handbag February 12, 2006, 2:14 am
What stitch and technique do you use to join two side gussets? February 23, 2006, 10:31 pm
Workable to alter a 44L to a 44R mens jacket. Would the pockets not come too low ? April 22, 2007, 11:06 pm
Nightmare finding casual trouser pattern... June 23, 2006, 3:39 pm

Contact Us | Privacy Policy
Sewgirls.com XML SitemapXML Sitemap