Velvet jacket for DGD

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Velvet jacket for DGD BEI Design 10-17-2008
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Posted by BEI Design on October 17, 2008, 8:23 pm
I just cannot cut into the velvet I ordered online, as
there's probably no way to get more if something isn't quite
right, so I am making a toile of some locally purchased blue
velvet (it was relatively inexpensive and I have enough to
make a jacket and a vest). I'll either give the toile
jacket to DGD to have for a back-up (the color's "ok" with
the new kilt tartan, just not as vibrant as the online
velvet) or sell it to her teacher or online.

I spent the last week making adjustments to a commercial
jacket pattern so that it meets the style and fit
requirements of the Highland dance jacket. Today I cut out
the toile velvet, cut hair canvas for each piece (excluding
the sleeves), and mounted all the pieces, sewed the front
and back princess seams, the CB seam and the shoulder seams.
All seams are lightly pressed open.

I cut extra seam allowance in the side seams so that I can
make further fitting adjustments if necessary and the side
seams are machine basted. I'll get the two-part sleeves
sewn together tonight, and machine baste them to the
armscye.

DGD now has a removable cast and she's available tomorrow
for a fitting, so with any luck I can tweak the pattern for
any final adjustments and get going on the real jacket soon.

Beverly



Posted by Emily Bengston on October 17, 2008, 10:38 pm



On 10/17/08 7:23 PM, in article gdba9l$c42$1@registered.motzarella.org, "BEI

show/hide quoted text
The muslin sounds like a winner, Beverly. I am very happy to know she now
has a removable cast.
Emily


Posted by BEI Design on October 18, 2008, 8:07 pm
Emily Bengston wrote:

show/hide quoted text

The jacket body fits well, just needed a few tweaks. The
biggest problem is going to be how to make the sleeves fit
the jacket. She needs to be able to raise her arms high
over her head. Many of the commercially made jackets insert
a gusset about 2" wide at the widest point, in the armscye,
starting at the mid back and continuing to the mid front.
I'd like to come up with a better solution, because 1. it
looks like c__p, and 2. it makes for a *very* bulky underarm
area.

Hmmmm... I wonder if I can make an insert panel for the
jacket side seam continuing up into the sleeve which would
provide the needed ease and still look smooth. Kind of a
vertical gusset. Guess I'll play around with that idea, I
have lots of the toile velvet. I am hoping to meet with the
lovely woman who mentored me through my first kilt, but she
wasn't home today. I'm pretty sure she must have a
solution, she makes jackets for many of the area dancers. I
don't want to re-invent the wheel.

Beverly



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