If you were Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
|
Posted by Kay Lancaster on September 11, 2006, 11:41 am
> I have a tunic pattern, drop shoulder, set in sleeve(just past the
> elbow), fingertip length..... and a very simple elastic waist pair of
> matching pants. The knit is about 40% crosswise stretch, maybe 5%
> lengthwise. These are educated guesses you understand. The knit is
> fairly light weight and drapey looking.
Ok, here are some of the issues I'd think about in doing this:
Light knits tend to drape closely, while heavier knits tend to skim.
Ease is always a bit tricky -- if you cut the same pattern in the
same size with a very drapey fabric, a medium fabric and a not-so-
drapey fabric, and the medium looks good, the one in the very drapey
fabric will look like it was cut for a cheap retailer and the heavier
fabric will look like circus tent. Especially because we're apparently
heading back to a more body-conscious fit right now, I'd be wary of
too much ease in the pattern with your knit. Does your sister have a
garment made of similarly draping fabric that you can measure and see
how much ease is in it, and then measure your pattern?
Because knits tend to weigh more per square yard than the average
woven, elastic waist pants sometimes need a bit more oomph to keep
them up. And stabilizing the crotch curve is often useful on knits,
especially those that are not very resilient and tend to "sit out".
You've got enough stretch on the crossgrain that you may wind up taking
some ease out of the side seams.
Some knit pattern possibilities:
https://www.gmidesign.com/stretch/patterns.htm -- look at Paradise Tunic
(my computer is hiccuping -- more in a second message)
Some possibilities should you
>
> The outfit is for my sister. I am cutting it on the size 20, so I do
> not want anything even approaching negative ease for her as she has
> jolly jelly rolls like I do. I made her a pair of pants off this
> pattern from a woven stretch fabric that was a lot more stable and she
> loves them and they fit.
>
|
|
Posted by Kay Lancaster on September 11, 2006, 5:42 pm
Another possibility:
http://www.loeshinsedesign.com/categories/blouses_tops/tunic.html
(lightweight knits only)
You're probably pretty safe with a knit that drapes much like one of
the suggested wovens in your pattern if the pattern has about as
much ease as a knit garment your sister likes the fit of. I'd probably
not sew the side seams without a pinfitting session.
Kay
|
|
Posted by Joy Beeson on September 9, 2006, 9:28 pm
On 9 Sep 2006 11:12:58 -0700, "Pat in Arkansas"
> Should I cut it any smaller that the pattern size indicated for a
> woven?
All my knit patterns were derived from woven patterns. Not one of
them worked the first time.
And I have to re-fit my knit patterns when I use a knit of a different
stretch.
(Not *all* my knit patterns -- my briefs pattern was derived from a
Lucille Rivers lingerie pattern. But I have a woven-brief pattern
derived from that pattern -- the third beta fits fairly well. Then I
didn't make any more, since all I wanted was to prove that I could do
it.)
Joy Beeson
--
joy beeson at comcast dot net
http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/ -- needlework
http://n3f.home.comcast.net/ -- Writers' Exchange
The above message is a Usenet post.
I don't recall having given anyone permission to use it on a Web site.
|
|
Posted by Pat in Arkansas on September 10, 2006, 12:33 am
Joy Beeson wrote:
> On 9 Sep 2006 11:12:58 -0700, "Pat in Arkansas"
>
> > Should I cut it any smaller that the pattern size indicated for a
> > woven?
>
> All my knit patterns were derived from woven patterns. Not one of
> them worked the first time.
>
>
> Joy Beeson
Any tips on what you do? Would love to hear them.......
|
|
Posted by Joy Beeson on September 11, 2006, 10:18 am
On 9 Sep 2006 21:33:41 -0700, "Pat in Arkansas"
> Any tips on what you do? Would love to hear them.......
I fumble around a lot -- fitting is my weakest point, but if I keep
trying, I'll get a pattern that fits, then I can keep using it until
my doctor gets fussy about my cholesterol and sends me to a
nutritionist.
I buy lots and lots of fabric that's cheap enough that I don't mind
wasting it, and nice enough that I don't mind wearing it.
Sometimes it works backward -- the first time I bought spun silk, I
tried the pattern out on cotton print left over from a project that
didn't work out. It turned out so well that I save the cotton shirt
for when I want to look nice, and wear the spun-silk shirt to keep
warm. Or I'll throw it on over my house clothes to dash out for bread
and milk, which is what I wanted a open-down-the-front shirt for in
the first place, after all.
I guess the moral is that good cotton beats cheap silk.
If I recall correctly, I took out horizontal ease when designing my
T-shirt patterns, and left the vertical measurements alone. Certainly
I added only in the horizontal direction when converting the briefs
pattern to woven fabric, and when I adjusted my jersey T-shirt pattern
to make up in a stretchy interlock I suspect of really being
one-on-one ribbing, I did it by removing vertical strips of the
pattern. (One strip through each shoulder, and one through the neck.)
When I hang the pattern for the back of my ankle-length jersey slip on
the same nail as the back pattern of my ankle-length woven daygown, it
appears to be three inches shorter. But then a slip is *supposed* to
be shorter than a gown. I don't think I'm quite interested enough to
try the gown on over the slip. (Besides, it's supposed to be worn
without a slip; that's the whole point of a daygown.)
I adjusted my jersey T-shirt pattern to make my boy-knit ribbing shirt
by starching the fabric and ironing it before cutting it, so as to
flatten the ribs into an approximation of jersey. This in effect took
out lots and lots of narrow little vertical strips, without the need
to true up the shoulder seams. (If you try this trick, the fabric
must be laid out flat to dry *before* you dampen it with starch, to
avoid stretching it in unintended ways.)
I always test the fit of my neckbands on my head, choosing the
shortest length that I can get into. When I put sleeve bands on, I
measure the actual fabric on my arms at the point where the bands are
to go. According to the notes on my neckband template, "banana" wool
jersey, "Villa Olive" cotton jersey, and lime-yellow interlock all
required a neckband 17" long, while black interlock takes 14 1/2".
The wool-jersey jersey came out tighter than the cotton-jersey jersey,
which is an annoyance -- I'd intended to wear it over a short-sleeved
jersey, but it has to be the bottom layer.
Joy Beeson
--
joy beeson at comcast dot net
http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/ -- needlework
http://n3f.home.comcast.net/ -- Writers' Exchange
The above message is a Usenet post.
I don't recall having given anyone permission to use it on a Web site.
|
Page 2 of 2 << first < 1 2
| Similar Threads | Posted | | Searching for a heavy knit/woven with Sheen to it! | May 15, 2008, 2:55 pm |
| Searching for a heavy knit/woven with Sheen to it! | May 15, 2008, 2:55 pm |
| Sturdy material pattern making | November 14, 2005, 12:22 am |
| Using knit pattern for cotton, got a serger! | January 8, 2007, 5:45 pm |
| Using woven cotton for boys clothes | November 30, 2007, 1:37 am |
| PHOTO OF THE WEEK, Woven Socks | June 24, 2008, 8:48 am |
| Material | March 13, 2007, 8:36 am |
| order of material | September 21, 2006, 2:13 pm |
| Help with material for pants | October 11, 2006, 4:36 pm |
| Help with Jeans material | May 6, 2007, 11:39 pm |
|
|
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap