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Posted by Donna Gennick on May 13, 2008, 7:26 pm
I finally have a pants/shorts pattern that in test garments seems to be
perfect--yay! However, I'm having trouble getting a zipper fly
installation that looks smooth and professional. I have been using
Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing, but I find the directions a
bit awkward, and no matter how careful I am to try to line everything up
precisely, there is still a small pucker at the base of the fly.
I did some Google searching for instructions and tried this one:
> http://www.independentliving.org/fashionfreaks/pants/siwp4.html
(Scroll down a bit)
which seemed clear enough, but I must have misunderstood something
because the zipper ended up being exposed in the center seam, rather
than hidden under the fly.
Does anyone know of a good website with directions for a
professional-looking fly? It must have an underlap, so the zipper isn't
exposed on the inside of the garment.
Also, my pants pattern has separate fly pieces, some other patterns
have the fly extensions cut out as one with the main garment. Is one
method better/easier/more professional than another? I can adapt my
pattern, if need be. I'm hoping for a quick and easy way to do this,
but am willing to take extra steps if need be to get perfect results. I
know this is long, but thank you for any help you can give.
Donna G.
Michigan's Upper Peninsula
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Posted by Olwyn Mary on May 13, 2008, 9:19 pm
Donna Gennick wrote:
> I finally have a pants/shorts pattern that in test garments seems to be
> perfect--yay! However, I'm having trouble getting a zipper fly
> installation that looks smooth and professional.
Must you have a fly front? I have returned to having center back or
sideseam lapped zippers. I figure (1) I am female, and therefore do not
need front opening pants, and (2) my tummy is quite big enough without
adding a fly to emphasize the fact.
Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
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Posted by chris on May 14, 2008, 3:28 am
Donna, try Sandra Betzina's tutorial
http://www.sandrabetzina.com/archive_full_column.php?id_columns=132
or a video of the same http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/tvt008.asp
hope this helps
chris
:-)
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Posted by Donna Gennick on May 14, 2008, 5:53 am
Thanks for your suggestion, Chris! I had looked at that one, but it
doesn't have an underlap. Sandra Betzina says you don't need one, but I
think it looks incomplete and sloppy without one. Also, I don't want an
exposed zipper that can catch on my under garments--or bare skin, since
part of the zipper will be above the underwear.
Her method looks easy and pretty much fool-proof, though. I'm wondering
if it would be difficult to add an underlap myself. Might experiment
with that. Thanks again.
Donna G.
Michigan's Upper Peninsula
chris wrote:
>
>
> Donna, try Sandra Betzina's tutorial
> http://www.sandrabetzina.com/archive_full_column.php?id_columns=132
>
> or a video of the same http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/tvt008.asp
>
> hope this helps
>
> chris
>
> :-)
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Posted by Sarah Dale on May 14, 2008, 5:49 pm
Donna Gennick wrote:
> Her method looks easy and pretty much fool-proof, though. I'm wondering
> if it would be difficult to add an underlap myself. Might experiment
> with that. Thanks again.
Donna,
It is not difficult to add an underlap - just go for it.
I put off making trousers for years, and when I did eventually make my
first pair I thought - Why the h*ll did I wait so long! (Probably the
same reason I put off buying an overlocker - intimidation!)
I only learnt how to do a proper fly zip installation a couple of years
back, and it certainly looks better than any other method. I've found
popping a bit of interfacing into the fly can help prevent it wrinkling
during washing. It's something that had bugged me about home made
trousers - the fly front always wrinkles in the wash, and never irons
flat! Bit of interfacing fixes that...
I used the instructions in the Dorling Kindersley Complete Book of
Sewing - which include an underlap.
I have to say the first time you read the method through you think
"huh?" as it looks weird - but trust me it works, and it all comes out
the right way round and in the right place if you follow the directions.
The good thing about this book is LOADS of photos - real step by step. I
actually like this book better than the Readers Digest Book of Sewing,
and I'd recommend it to anyone.
HTH
Sarah
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