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Posted by Donna Gennick on May 19, 2008, 9:50 pm
Thank you for your detailed reply, Teri. I'm printing it out for reference.
Donna G.
Michigan's Upper Peninsula
gjones2938 wrote:
> Dear Donna,
>
> This is the foolproof method of installing a fly zipper that I taught
> my students. First, take the fly pattern and tape it to the center
> front, matching the seamlines. If you want a zipper guard, make a
> copy of the fly pattern, and cut it with the curved side on the fold
> as far as possible. Serge of overcast the remaining curve part of the
> zipper guard. Set aside.
>
> Mark with a snip where the fly will be pressed under. On the upper
> side, the snip will come exactly at the center front. On the under
> side, the fold will come 1/4 inch over into the fly, so that there is
> a wide overlap. Sew the fronts together for one inch below the zipper
> opening, just enough to hold the two pieces together while the zipper
> is inserted. Press under the fly pieces, using the snips (NOTE: The
> zipper is the first thing you do when you make pants. The pockets are
> next. The long seams are the last things to do.) Open the zipper.
> It can be any length longer than the opening. The opened zipper tab
> should be at the lower opening where the zipper is to be sewn. Sew
> the under side of the zipper from the top down to the tab. If you use
> a zipper guard, sew it in now, using the original stitching as a
> guide, and stitch again along the same line of stitches.
>
> Pin the upper fly over the under fly from the right side. Turn your
> work over so that the wrong side is facing you. Sew the fly--only the
> fly--right next to the other side of the zipper. Now turn your work
> back to the right side, and topstitch the fly for the upper side in
> place. If you need to, mark it with chalk. Make sure that you miss
> the stop on the zipper when you mark it, and backstitch or bartack at
> the end of the topstitching. Done.
>
> Teri
>
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