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Posted by Cecilie Thorning Jacobsen on March 21, 2006, 4:30 am
Dear everyone,
I've been lurking on the ng. for years, but now I have a sewing dilemma,
where I don't dare to cut before I have heard your opinion.
I'm making a classic doublebreasted long coat for myself of a beautiful
grayish blue piece of real Harris tweed from the stash.
The tweed part of the coat has been cut, basted, fittted, sown, refitted and
it fits as it should.
The sleeves have not been attached yet, because I want to make sure the coat
fits properly with the lining first.
I've bought some lightweight Thinsulate thermo lining, so that the coat will
stand up to the Danish winter weather (cold and damp coastal climate).
It is the warmest type (up to minus 20 Centigrades), a lightweight lining
app. 5 milimeters thick, not stiff as such, but without a drape of its own.
The lining will be a shiny gray viscose, buttons round and a matching
navyblue and I'll put a pink piping (?) along the edge of the lining to give
it a nice finish.
The questions are:
1. should I zigzag the Thinsulate lining to the gray viscose lining or
should it be an independent layer in the coat only attached in front,
sleeves and losely in the shoulders ?
2. should I make pleats for easy movement in the shoulders in the Thinsulate
just like the gray lining no matter whether the Thinsulate is zigzagged to
the lining or an independent layer ?
TIA and best regards
Cecilie Thorning Jacobsen
Denmark
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Posted by Fey on March 21, 2006, 4:48 am
sound like a beautiful coat!
This might help you. I hope anyway. Maybe 3M would have some sort of
help facility?
http://www.justmakeit.com/pdf/TOI2006_water_breath.pdf
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Posted by Cecilie Thorning Jacobsen on March 21, 2006, 6:13 am
Dear Fey,
Thanks for the info - it actually sort of recommended a detachable lining,
due to the cleaning difference between the Thinsulate (machine) and wool
(dry clean or if I dared wool progamme on machine and a thorough
steampressing)
The recommendations also said to make identical Thinsulate and lining pieces
and zigzag them together before sewing the Thinsulate+lining coat.
That makes sense to me, but I'm still not sure whether shoulder pleats will
be a good idea.
What is your opinion on the detachable lining or not issue?
How and where do I attach a detachable Thinsulate lining to the coat if I
want to make a full lining including sleeves ?
I'm used to seeing the classical buttoned types of detachable lining in
linings without sleeves.
I can imagine 4 solutions:
1. a classical buttoned detatchable Thinsulate lining with gray lining on
both sides and additional gray lining on the inside of the woolen coat.
Buttons placed along neck and front perhaps armholes at least if I forego
thinsulate lined sleeves.
2. A zipped Thinsulate + one side of gray lining to the woolen part of the
coat
1-2 very long zips in the front opening that start in the neck might
distribute the weight and tension of the Thinsulate lining better than
buttons.
handstiched lining to sleeveopenings - easy to remove and redo after
cleaning.
3. A zipped Thinsulate lining with gray lining on both sides and additional
gray lining on the inside of the woolen coat.
4. just ignoring the cleaning issue because this is a nice coat in a colour
that camouflages well ;-)
Make the Thinsulate + gray lining zigzagging each pattern piece together
first and then sew the lining coat together.
Finally handstich the lining to the woolen coat.
If cleaning is needed, the lining has to be removed and restitched
afterwards.
TIA
Cecilie
> sound like a beautiful coat!
> This might help you. I hope anyway. Maybe 3M would have some sort of
> help facility?
>
> http://www.justmakeit.com/pdf/TOI2006_water_breath.pdf
>
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Posted by Sarah Dale on March 22, 2006, 3:23 am
Cecilie Thorning Jacobsen wrote:
> The recommendations also said to make identical Thinsulate and lining pieces
> and zigzag them together before sewing the Thinsulate+lining coat.
> That makes sense to me, but I'm still not sure whether shoulder pleats will
> be a good idea.
>
> What is your opinion on the detachable lining or not issue?
>
Hi Cecilie,
Sounds like a great project. My posh store bought rain coat, has a
detachable 'thinsulate' (well it may be and may be not - the coat is
very old!) lining.
The raincoat is double breasted and has deep facings, and is fully lined
with a standard lining fabric. It then has a detachable 'thinsulate'
lining. This is fixed via a zip round the outside of the front facings
(from bottom right, round the neck to bottom left) and one button on
each sleeve - with a loop on the 'thinsulate' lining and the button at
the top of the cuff facing on the inside of the sleeve. The stuff my
coat lining is made out of is sort of brushed cotton on the inside, and
a shiny surface where it faces the wearer on the inside, so no issues
with being able to slip the coat on and off whether or not the
detachable lining is in the coat.
HTH
Sarah
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Posted by on March 21, 2006, 12:02 pm
Dear Cecile,
I wouldn't bother to make a detachable lining. We have very cold
winters here, and the (purchased) detachable linings sit in the closet
unused.
Instead, cut the front, back and sleeves of Thinsulate, and remove the
seam allowances. Then, butt the edges together and sew the shoulder
seams. Sew in the sleeves while the pieces are flat, then sew the
entire side seams and sleeves as one--again, by butting together.
Then, simply hang the interlining to the inside of the coat, and apply
your nice lining as planned.
You need to sew the sleeves into the coat before you go any further.
Make the lining, but don't sew the sleeve linings in until after the
body has been sewn into the coat. This gives a better feel. The
armholes of the lining are then sewn in by hand. My tailoring teacher
had us slip stitch the armhole once, then go around it again, in
between the prior stitches.
Teri
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