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Posted by Cecilie Thorning Jacobsen on March 21, 2006, 5:05 pm
>
> Dear Cecile,
>
> I wouldn't bother to make a detachable lining. We have very cold
> winters here, and the (purchased) detachable linings sit in the closet
> unused.
>
> Instead, cut the front, back and sleeves of Thinsulate, and remove the
> seam allowances. Then, butt the edges together and sew the shoulder
> seams. Sew in the sleeves while the pieces are flat, then sew the
> entire side seams and sleeves as one--again, by butting together.
> Then, simply hang the interlining to the inside of the coat, and apply
> your nice lining as planned.
>
> You need to sew the sleeves into the coat before you go any further.
> Make the lining, but don't sew the sleeve linings in until after the
> body has been sewn into the coat. This gives a better feel. The
> armholes of the lining are then sewn in by hand. My tailoring teacher
> had us slip stitch the armhole once, then go around it again, in
> between the prior stitches.
>
> Teri
>
Dear Teri,
Thanks a lot for your input - I'm sorely tempted to try your suggestion
without the detachable lining etc. but I have some questions.
1. I'm not sure the butting tecnique will work with this particular model
Vogue no. 1266 unless I misunderstood you and butting = overlapping ?
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/voguepatterns/shop.cgi?s.item.V1266=x&TI=20010&page=8
It's model B navy blue double breasted no.2 from the left
It's a classical doublebreasted reasonably fitted woolen coat with "over-
and undersleeve", princess seam front and back sidepieces in addition to the
front and backpieces.
I think the breast seams curve too much to for the Thinsulate to be butted
together.
I think the least bulky and durable way to seam the Thinsulate+lining pieces
together is probably by overlapping the pieces and using some zigzag
variety.
What's your experience with this method ?
2. If I made the Thinsulate lining an independent layer as you suggest -
where and how would you attach it to the outside wool or the inside lining ?
The neck, front and sleeve opening as the lining or elsewhere ?
Doesn't just hanging the interlining to the inside of the coat make the
layers slip and skew apart over time ?
I'm particularly concerned about the shoulder and bust seams.
I discussed the problem with my mother, who's rather experienced when it
comes to fitting classic tailored clothes but inexperienced when it comes to
outdoorsy fabrics.
I've also inherited a slightly milder version of the OCD type sewing
mentality from her.
You know the "measure 7x, cut once, steam all seams, why bother at all if
the final result isn't as good or better than store bought" drill ;-)
Her arguments in favour of bothering with a detachable lining after all
were:
1. the technical specifications provided by Fay were specific and sensible -
drycleaning, steaming or pressing of Thinsulate is apparently a nono
2. It is a long coat, and since I bike to and from work etc. cleaning might
be necessary more often than I hope due to snow/bike
oil/daughter-related-stains
3. it's unrealistic/time consuming in the long run to remove both Thinsulate
and inner lining from the woolen shell and dry clean especially considering
argument 2.
4. there's a risk of skewing the coat if one did actually only dryclean the
woolen shell.
She has a Burburry coat with a detachable lining that is zippered on - must
have a look at that one.
3. How come you don't use your detachable linings - too bothersome to attach
(buttons or zip), doesn't fit well enough, not cold enough after all ?
I wanted this coat to replace an old lambskin fur that is the only thing
that has kept me properly warm on the bike, long walks and outdoor
playing/standing.
I haven't sewn fur/skin/leather and think it is too bothersome to start now,
that's how the idea of Thinsulate lining came up originally.
4. Have you tried drycleaning Thinsulate lined clothing ?
I'll google 3M Thinsulate and look further into the drycleaning issue, but
I'd still love to hear about everybody's experiences with Thinsulate.
Will get back later with news on the coat anyhow (progress will be slow as
always that's why I stick to classic models ;-))
Thanks again
Cecilie
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Posted by on March 22, 2006, 12:16 am
Dear Cecille,
If you use the lining pattern pieces to cut the Thinsulate, you
shouldn't have any trouble. I looked at the sketch--it's lovely.
Butting is better than overlapping; too bulky.
We don't use the zip-in linings because we don't play in the snow
anymore--we go straight to the mall, and a heavy coat would be too
cumbersome. The interlining can be drycleaned. I made a jacket for my
son when he was little and washed it with a Thinsulate lining.
Teri
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Posted by Cecilie Thorning Jacobsen on March 22, 2006, 3:56 pm
Dear Teri, Sara, Fey and everyone else,
I'm ready to proceed with the Thinsulate lining for the coat pattern Vogue
1266
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/voguepatterns/shop.cgi?s.item.V1266=x&TI=20010&page=8
This is what I learned about Thinsulate in general from the Scandinavian
agent that sells it to the clothing industry and the drycleaner that
cleanses all the costumes of the Royal Theatre/Opera/Ballet in Copenhagen:
1. The CDS 150 Thinsulate I use officially says it can be drycleaned
"Drycleaning programme F" - whatever that means apart from it being a dry
drycleaning technique.
Inofficially "Careful Drycleaning Programme P1 or 1dot" works fine.
In Scandinavia, "Drycleaning programme F" has been abandoned/requering a
very special permit since it is environmentally unfriendly.
There's pretty much only a couple of drycleaners in Denmark that uses this
technique.
Instead drycleaners uses the "P programme", which is a wet/damp drycleaning
technique where the garment is placed on a dummy and cleansed somehow.
2. The melting temperature of Thinsulate is app. 157 Centigrades.
It will get pressure marks at 77 Centigrades, but can inofficially be ironed
with a regular iron that is lukewarm ie. for ironing wool or silk.
3. The Danish postal service and the railways use Thinsulate in their
uniforms - the clothes have been tested and can be machine washed up to 60
Centigrades.
The Thinsulate interlining is made independently of the lining - pretty much
as Teri suggested.
Inofficially it is not mandatory to edge-zigzag or quilt the individual
pattern parts of Thinsulate to the lining parts.
4. When washed and possibly drycleaned with a "wet method" Thinsulate will
shrink 3-4% in every direction.
Like a pair of washed jeans it will regain its size with wear.
The Thinsulate agent strongly recommended to leave the Thinsulate
interlining to hang free in the bottom of the coat and the sleeveopenings.
5. Some Danish clothing factories have used Thinsulate with thinner wool
qualities for jackets.
The advantage, besides from the thermo- and waterrepelling qualities, was
apparently that it saved on the Vlieseline/stabilizer (in English ?) because
it is a little stiff in itself.
I can imagine this could look quite nice in a long coat.
How I plan to proceed Friday:
A. right now my Thinsulate is washed on 60 Centigrades in order to preshink
it to the max.
B. I'll cut the Thinsulate interlining after the lining parts as Teri
suggested, try to butt it together (new technique for me) with a wide zigzag
seam either by machine or hand in the curvy parts.
However I won't make any movement pleats in the back.
C. make the gray lining as an independent lining.
I'm *so* glad I didn't have to make a detachable lining ;-)))
D. connect everything in the shoulderseams and the front and neck seams
unless any of you recommend something else.
The gray lining will be handsewn in the bottom of the coat (?) and the end
of the sleeves.
Thanks for all the input - I'll mail news on the progress as it comes along.
Cecilie
> Dear Cecille,
>
> If you use the lining pattern pieces to cut the Thinsulate, you
> shouldn't have any trouble. I looked at the sketch--it's lovely.
> Butting is better than overlapping; too bulky.
>
> We don't use the zip-in linings because we don't play in the snow
> anymore--we go straight to the mall, and a heavy coat would be too
> cumbersome. The interlining can be drycleaned. I made a jacket for my
> son when he was little and washed it with a Thinsulate lining.
>
> Teri
>
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Posted by Melinda Meahan - take out TRAS on March 22, 2006, 5:56 pm
Cecilie Thorning Jacobsen wrote:
> Dear Teri, Sara, Fey and everyone else,
> I'm ready to proceed with the Thinsulate lining for the coat pattern Vogue
> 1266
>
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/voguepatterns/shop.cgi?s.item.V1266=x&TI=20010&page=8
You might want to search the Threads magazine site to see if their
article on insulating coats with Thinsulate is online. www.taunton.com/th
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Posted by Cecilie Thorning Jacobsen on March 24, 2006, 5:07 am
Dear Melinda,
Thanks for the advice - I've ordered the relevant backissue from October
2005.
Since I'm living in Europe, it'll probably take the better part of a week
before it arrives...
If you or anyone else have the article at home and the time to look at it
again - couldn't you let me know if I can cut the Thinsulate after the
lining pattern parts as Teri suggests ?
I'd really like to start cutting either today or Sunday - the sewing will
have to wait a little longer anyway.
Here in Copenhagen it is still just a bit warmer than the freezing point 0
centigrades, but it is sunny and there are a few spring flowers in the
gardens already.
TIA and have a great weekend.
Cecilie
> Cecilie Thorning Jacobsen wrote:
>> Dear Teri, Sara, Fey and everyone else,
>> I'm ready to proceed with the Thinsulate lining for the coat pattern
>> Vogue 1266
>>
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/voguepatterns/shop.cgi?s.item.V1266=x&TI=20010&page=8
>
> You might want to search the Threads magazine site to see if their article
> on insulating coats with Thinsulate is online. www.taunton.com/th
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