adjusting a pants pattern

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adjusting a pants pattern Karlisa 03-17-2007
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Posted by Karlisa on March 17, 2007, 3:15 pm
I just mocked-up Burda 8903 pants pattern and amazingly, they fit me
perfectly through the hips, waist and most happily of all, the seat. They
are just perfect and so I'm going to make several pair of linen pants for
summer from this pattern. The hitch here is the width of the pants
bottoms. I think it's fine to have several pair of pants in this style, but
what I'd like to do is trace this pattern off for the perfect fit through
hips, waist and seat and then alter the width of the pants leg from the knee
down so that I'll also have a pattern that's not quite so full. Is there
anything I should be aware of before I go ahead and remove the excess
fullness from the pant leg? I know I'll have to be careful to keep it on
grain, but is there anything else I should be aware of?

thanks alot in advance! I get so much help here and I'm just thrilled to
have a pants pattern that *fits* properly for a change!! Oh, and is it a
safe bet that other Burda pants patterns might fit me just as nicely?

lisa


--
"Some people are like Slinkies...not really good for anything, but they
still bring a smile to your face when
you push them down a flight of stairs."



Posted by BEI Design on March 17, 2007, 4:26 pm
Karlisa wrote:
> I just mocked-up Burda 8903 pants pattern and amazingly,
> they fit me perfectly through the hips, waist and most
> happily of all, the seat. They are just perfect and so
> I'm going to make several pair of linen pants for summer
> from this pattern. The hitch here is the width of the
> pants bottoms. I think it's fine to have several pair of
> pants in this style, but what I'd like to do is trace
> this pattern off for the perfect fit through hips, waist
> and seat and then alter the width of the pants leg from
> the knee down so that I'll also have a pattern that's not
> quite so full. Is there anything I should be aware of
> before I go ahead and remove the excess fullness from the
> pant leg? I know I'll have to be careful to keep it on
> grain, but is there anything else I should be aware of?

Be sure you remove the same amount from *both* inner-leg and
outer-leg seam at the bottom. And since the leg front is usually
a smidge smaller than the back, I would remove say 3/8" from the
hem at each side of the front hem, and 5/8" each side on the back
hem, if I wanted to remove a total of 2" (for instance) from the
hem area. Smaller or lager amount according to how much you want
to reduce the width. Mark what you want to remove, then use a
yard stick to taper the line to match at the knee or slightly
above. If you want a "stovepipe" look, taper to the low-hip.

> thanks alot in advance! I get so much help here and I'm
> just thrilled to have a pants pattern that *fits*
> properly for a change!! Oh, and is it a safe bet that
> other Burda pants patterns might fit me just as nicely?

Why bother? Once you have a perfect pattern it's easy to tweak
it for different pockets, waist rise, etc. There really is not
that much difference in pants patterns, IMHO.

Beverly



Posted by Karlisa on March 17, 2007, 7:53 pm

> Karlisa wrote:
>> I just mocked-up Burda 8903 pants pattern and amazingly,
>> they fit me perfectly through the hips, waist and most
>> happily of all, the seat. They are just perfect and so
>> I'm going to make several pair of linen pants for summer
>> from this pattern. The hitch here is the width of the
>> pants bottoms. I think it's fine to have several pair of
>> pants in this style, but what I'd like to do is trace
>> this pattern off for the perfect fit through hips, waist
>> and seat and then alter the width of the pants leg from
>> the knee down so that I'll also have a pattern that's not
>> quite so full. Is there anything I should be aware of
>> before I go ahead and remove the excess fullness from the
>> pant leg? I know I'll have to be careful to keep it on
>> grain, but is there anything else I should be aware of?
>
> Be sure you remove the same amount from *both* inner-leg and outer-leg
> seam at the bottom. And since the leg front is usually a smidge smaller
> than the back, I would remove say 3/8" from the hem at each side of the
> front hem, and 5/8" each side on the back hem, if I wanted to remove a
> total of 2" (for instance) from the hem area. Smaller or lager amount
> according to how much you want to reduce the width. Mark what you want to
> remove, then use a yard stick to taper the line to match at the knee or
> slightly above. If you want a "stovepipe" look, taper to the low-hip.
>
>> thanks alot in advance! I get so much help here and I'm
>> just thrilled to have a pants pattern that *fits*
>> properly for a change!! Oh, and is it a safe bet that
>> other Burda pants patterns might fit me just as nicely?
>
> Why bother? Once you have a perfect pattern it's easy to tweak it for
> different pockets, waist rise, etc. There really is not that much
> difference in pants patterns, IMHO.
>
Great information, Beverly. I guess I wasn't thinking straight as far as
needing more pants patterns. I tend to get distracted by the sewing
patterns in the books, and really, it's not the pattern I am drawn to but
the fabric they're using in the photo, I think. You're right. Why buy more
patterns? :-)

thanks for everyone's input! Lots of good information to digest.

lisa

> Beverly
>



Posted by BEI Design on March 18, 2007, 2:04 am
Karlisa wrote:
> Great information, Beverly. I guess I wasn't thinking
> straight as far as needing more pants patterns. I tend
> to get distracted by the sewing patterns in the books,
> and really, it's not the pattern I am drawn to but the
> fabric they're using in the photo, I think. You're
> right. Why buy more patterns? :-)
> thanks for everyone's input! Lots of good information to
> digest.

I have made everything from jeans to tailored slacks to pull-on
pants from one perfectly altered pattern. And since I know it
fits, I don't have to re-invent the wheel each time. AND, I save
money... ;-)

Beverly



Posted by Sarah Dale on March 17, 2007, 4:36 pm
Karlisa wrote:
>> hips, waist and seat and then alter the width of the pants leg from the knee
> down so that I'll also have a pattern that's not quite so full. Is there
> anything I should be aware of before I go ahead and remove the excess
> fullness from the pant leg? I know I'll have to be careful to keep it on
> grain, but is there anything else I should be aware of?

Hi Lisa,

There's no difficulty in what you suggest, I've done it to a pants
pattern when the first pair came out like bags round my ankles!

All you need to do is decide how tight you would like them at the ankle,
make sure you can get your foot through the proposed hole size, and then
adjust your pattern accordingly from knee to ankle. Remember to take
equal amounts off the in seam and outseam, and both back and front
pattern pieces, and that should be it - don't forget seam allowances.

If you end up with a taper at the bottom, don't forget to mirror this
into the hem, otherwise it all goes horrible when you try to hem the
trousers.

Have fun! You can always ring the changes with this pants pattern as it
is such a good fit, rather than buying other patterns...


Sarah

(Who needed Kate's help to get her pants pattern to fit properly!)

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