alteration help

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alteration help cathy 01-28-2007
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Posted by cathy on January 28, 2007, 7:17 pm
I just bought a suit jacket and I need to shorten the sleeves. They've
got a vent pleat and 4 buttons. Is there a website that shows how to
shorten (by a good 4 inches) a tailored suit jacket sleeve and
maintain the vent pleat ant the button placement?

The jacket was on sale for a ridiculously low price and I figured it'd
be a good one to practice/learn this particular technique on. If I
screw it up, the jacket only cost $10.

Thanks,
Cathy

Posted by Carla Pollard on January 29, 2007, 5:09 am
I would shorten it from the sleeve cap, not the bottom of the sleeve.



>I just bought a suit jacket and I need to shorten the sleeves. They've
> got a vent pleat and 4 buttons. Is there a website that shows how to
> shorten (by a good 4 inches) a tailored suit jacket sleeve and
> maintain the vent pleat ant the button placement?
>
> The jacket was on sale for a ridiculously low price and I figured it'd
> be a good one to practice/learn this particular technique on. If I
> screw it up, the jacket only cost $10.
>
> Thanks,
> Cathy



Posted by Val on January 29, 2007, 11:27 am
I think if you decide to alter from the sleeve cap you're going to have to
remove the entire sleeve and recut the arm or it won't hang right and may
even alter the fit in the shoulder and that will be a not so good domino
effect across the shoulders, neck, etc.. The jacket sounds like it's
probably lined as well. I'd remove the buttons, turn the jacket inside
out, unstitch the lining around the bottom of the sleeves, then carefully
undo the seams on both lining and jacket arms about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up
the under arm. Open them up flat and see how they have cut the lower sleeve
to make that vent/pleat. Probably even trace the lower half of the sleeves
onto paper. Then move the pattern up the flat sleeve the amount you want to
shorten them and recut. Make notes on the construction if you think it's too
tricky to reconstruct from memory. The lining could possibly be cut
different than sleeve so do what ever was done to that the same way you copy
the jacket. With some designs the sleeve and lining are cut differently.
Then resew the lining, resew the sleeve, make sure you allow for turning the
fabric under on both hem and sleeve and then you can reattach them at the
cuff. Sew the buttons back on. This way you'll still have the same finished
sleeve but shorter and not alter the fit of the jacket.

Hope that makes sense. Maybe Kate and a few other of our resident more
experienced people with alterations will step in here and make suggestions
as well.

Val

>I just bought a suit jacket and I need to shorten the sleeves. They've
> got a vent pleat and 4 buttons. Is there a website that shows how to
> shorten (by a good 4 inches) a tailored suit jacket sleeve and
> maintain the vent pleat ant the button placement?
>
> The jacket was on sale for a ridiculously low price and I figured it'd
> be a good one to practice/learn this particular technique on. If I
> screw it up, the jacket only cost $10.
>
> Thanks,
> Cathy



Posted by Doreen on January 29, 2007, 11:50 am
Val wrote:
> I think if you decide to alter from the sleeve cap you're going to have to
> remove the entire sleeve and recut the arm or it won't hang right and may
> even alter the fit in the shoulder and that will be a not so good domino
> effect across the shoulders, neck, etc.. The jacket sounds like it's
> probably lined as well. I'd remove the buttons, turn the jacket inside
> out, unstitch the lining around the bottom of the sleeves, then carefully
> undo the seams on both lining and jacket arms about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up
> the under arm. Open them up flat and see how they have cut the lower sleeve
> to make that vent/pleat. Probably even trace the lower half of the sleeves
> onto paper. Then move the pattern up the flat sleeve the amount you want to
> shorten them and recut. Make notes on the construction if you think it's too
> tricky to reconstruct from memory. The lining could possibly be cut
> different than sleeve so do what ever was done to that the same way you copy
> the jacket. With some designs the sleeve and lining are cut differently.
> Then resew the lining, resew the sleeve, make sure you allow for turning the
> fabric under on both hem and sleeve and then you can reattach them at the
> cuff. Sew the buttons back on. This way you'll still have the same finished
> sleeve but shorter and not alter the fit of the jacket.
>
> Hope that makes sense. Maybe Kate and a few other of our resident more
> experienced people with alterations will step in here and make suggestions
> as well.
>
> Val
>
>> I just bought a suit jacket and I need to shorten the sleeves. They've
>> got a vent pleat and 4 buttons. Is there a website that shows how to
>> shorten (by a good 4 inches) a tailored suit jacket sleeve and
>> maintain the vent pleat ant the button placement?
>>
>> The jacket was on sale for a ridiculously low price and I figured it'd
>> be a good one to practice/learn this particular technique on. If I
>> screw it up, the jacket only cost $10.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Cathy
>
>

I think Val is right, that in this case the alteration needs to be done
at the bottom of the sleeves. If Cathy needed to shorten them by only
an inch or two, the sleeve cap might be recut to fit the armhole
satisfactorily. But taking as much as 4 inches off the sleeve cap
almost certainly would result in a noticeable difference in the amount
of ease.

I have to be in just the right kind of mood to tackle this kind of
alteration project (and seldom am). Bad sentence structure, but you
probably know what I mean!

Doreen in Alabama


Posted by Kate XXXXXX on January 29, 2007, 12:19 pm
Val wrote:
> I think if you decide to alter from the sleeve cap you're going to have to
> remove the entire sleeve and recut the arm or it won't hang right and may
> even alter the fit in the shoulder and that will be a not so good domino
> effect across the shoulders, neck, etc.. The jacket sounds like it's
> probably lined as well. I'd remove the buttons, turn the jacket inside
> out, unstitch the lining around the bottom of the sleeves, then carefully
> undo the seams on both lining and jacket arms about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up
> the under arm. Open them up flat and see how they have cut the lower sleeve
> to make that vent/pleat. Probably even trace the lower half of the sleeves
> onto paper. Then move the pattern up the flat sleeve the amount you want to
> shorten them and recut. Make notes on the construction if you think it's too
> tricky to reconstruct from memory. The lining could possibly be cut
> different than sleeve so do what ever was done to that the same way you copy
> the jacket. With some designs the sleeve and lining are cut differently.
> Then resew the lining, resew the sleeve, make sure you allow for turning the
> fabric under on both hem and sleeve and then you can reattach them at the
> cuff. Sew the buttons back on. This way you'll still have the same finished
> sleeve but shorter and not alter the fit of the jacket.
>
> Hope that makes sense. Maybe Kate and a few other of our resident more
> experienced people with alterations will step in here and make suggestions
> as well.
>
> Val

I think you just about covered it there, Val. I don't do alterations
much, but this is the neatest way I've seen to do this without altering
the cuff, where you can have trouble keeping the vent when you chop the
bottom off the sleeve.
>

--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

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