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Posted by jacqui on August 15, 2006, 4:22 pm
Oookay (mildly hyper, be warned :)). I'm trying to psych myself up to make
what's for me a significant pattern alteration: bust (since I'm more-endowed
than the pattern allows). At least I *think* that's the adjustment I need
to be making.
It's for Burda 8379:
http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/patterns/sewingpatterns.pl?patternid
=9678 -- if anyone wants to see it.
I'm already planning taper from a size 26 on the top to a 30 below the
waist, to deal with my wider hips. But I noticed when I was looking over
the measurements that my front waist length (shoulder to waist over the
breast) is *way* out of whack, which I can only assume is because of cup
size?
Do I "simply" do a slash and spread, as illustrated in the full bust
enlargement here (and thanks to whomever posted that link):
http://www.sew-whats-new.com/petite-plus/article3/
Or...? And will this adjustment make anything go weird and make me panic?
:)
I really like this pattern; I've got two nice pieces of linen (well, one
linen and one linen blend) which I think will make up quite nicely, and I
think the dress will be at least not unflattering, so I don't want to screw
it up -- the idea of putting in the zippers was stressful enough without a
serious bit of pattern fiddling.
Thanks for your thoughts. :)
-j
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Posted by Kate Dicey on August 15, 2006, 4:59 pm
jacqui wrote:
> Oookay (mildly hyper, be warned :)). I'm trying to psych myself up to make
> what's for me a significant pattern alteration: bust (since I'm more-endowed
> than the pattern allows). At least I *think* that's the adjustment I need
> to be making.
>
> It's for Burda 8379:
> http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/patterns/sewingpatterns.pl?patternid
> =9678 -- if anyone wants to see it.
>
> I'm already planning taper from a size 26 on the top to a 30 below the
> waist, to deal with my wider hips. But I noticed when I was looking over
> the measurements that my front waist length (shoulder to waist over the
> breast) is *way* out of whack, which I can only assume is because of cup
> size?
>
> Do I "simply" do a slash and spread, as illustrated in the full bust
> enlargement here (and thanks to whomever posted that link):
> http://www.sew-whats-new.com/petite-plus/article3/
>
> Or...? And will this adjustment make anything go weird and make me panic?
> :)
>
> I really like this pattern; I've got two nice pieces of linen (well, one
> linen and one linen blend) which I think will make up quite nicely, and I
> think the dress will be at least not unflattering, so I don't want to screw
> it up -- the idea of putting in the zippers was stressful enough without a
> serious bit of pattern fiddling.
>
> Thanks for your thoughts. :)
> -j
>
>
I don't see why it shouldn't work. Do the bust alteration before
grading up to the larger size for the bottom half.
Take care that you copy the right size for the top half as it should be
BEFORE the full bust alteration (e.e. NOT based on full but measurement,
but based on a high bust measurement).
--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
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Posted by on August 15, 2006, 5:38 pm
Dear Jacqui,
Designers never cut into good fabric before testing a pattern. I know,
I know, you want to get to work. But what if you don't make the
correct adjustment? Then the fabric is ruined. If it's only a bust
adjustment that is needed--no armhole, shoulder, etc., then you don't
even have to slash and spread. You can pivot 1/4 of the needed
adjustment. This way, you don't change anything but the bust. Cut the
front and shoulder. Stick a pin in the end of the shoulder (next to
the armhole) and pivot the pattern out. Cut the armhole. Stick a pin
in the side seam (next to the armhole), and pivot the pattern back.
You will see that the pattern has moved over from the front edge. Do
the same thing for the back.
Then, cut the front, back and sleeves and baste them together on the
machine. Try it on. You can make other adjustments if needed. If the
adjustments are extensive, then carefully rip the "muslin" and use it
for your pattern.
Teri
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Posted by Melinda Meahan - take out TRAS on August 15, 2006, 9:05 pm
gjones2938@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> even have to slash and spread. You can pivot 1/4 of the needed
> adjustment. This way, you don't change anything but the bust. Cut the
> front and shoulder. Stick a pin in the end of the shoulder (next to
> the armhole) and pivot the pattern out. Cut the armhole. Stick a pin
> in the side seam (next to the armhole), and pivot the pattern back.
> You will see that the pattern has moved over from the front edge. Do
> the same thing for the back.
Actually, if it is a bust *cup* adjustment of any notice, you need
additional length as well as width (it took me 20 years of sewing to
find that out), so yes, she might need to slash and spread.
Apart from that, I'm with you 250% on the "try it on a trial garment
first and don't cut out your good fabric until you know you have what
you want" type of comment.
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Posted by Phaedrine on August 16, 2006, 11:09 am
You did not say how much more room you need in the bust but, unless you
want to wear shapeless things, this kind of problem will present itself
in almost every pattern or RTW garment you buy. The good news is that
with a bit of reading and practice, you can learn not only how to make
these adjustments with facility but also discover what patterns are the
best for "manipulation". Several good, basic books on the topic are:
"Fast Fit" by Sandra Betzina
"Fit for Real People", Palmer & Pletsch
"Fitting Finesse" by Nancy Zieman
There are a number of different methods and, IMO, it is prudent to
familiarize yourself with the basic ones. Each lends itself to a
different body type and garment design. Then buy 10 yards of cheap
muslin and practice fitting bodices. I guarantee that the time
investment will pay off significantly, even if you later decide to buy
pattern drafting software like Wild Ginger that will make patterns
according to your individual measurements.
First of all, rule number one for well-endowed women is that horizontal
bust darts of the type in your chosen pattern are almost always
problematic because they end up way too high and short. The purpose of
darts is to accommodate the curves of the body. The point of the dart
should end 1/2 to 1" away from the apex of fullness. That goes for
both the vertical and side darts. Both will have to be repositioned and
expanded. I generally avoid (or eliminate) horizontal darts altogether
in favor of princess seaming and French darts. You can fudge this dress
a little by making the back a tad bigger since you have to do that
anyway for wider hips. So pivoting out the entire side seam (including
the armhole) from the outer shoulder point, on both the front and the
back, will give you slightly more room in the bust as well as more in
the hips.
If it were me doing this pattern, I would likely add width to the dress
fronts between the inner and outer shoulder points and, depending on how
much more room is needed, either (1) rotate the side dart to the
shoulder (not a very good solution here) (2) replace the side dart with
a French dart, add a shoulder dart, and increase the lower vertical dart
width, spreading the additional width among the three; or (3) (my
favorite) gather the newly added width at the shoulder, being a little
extra generous, and then place a couple lines of angled (not horizontal)
ruching between the armhole and the neckline point. This would result
in a gathered shoulder with the gathers held down by the ruching and
then allowed to fan out over the bust. #3 will not work with heavier
weight fabrics, of course. I'd also add an extra few inches length on
the fronts and a little at the back side seams to accommodate the length
the bust will "steal". You will need to set the hem from the floor so
you don't have any dips or unevenness.
Good luck and be sure to let us know what you did. :)
Phae
> Oookay (mildly hyper, be warned :)). I'm trying to psych myself up to make
> what's for me a significant pattern alteration: bust (since I'm more-endowed
> than the pattern allows). At least I *think* that's the adjustment I need
> to be making.
>
> It's for Burda 8379:
> http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/patterns/sewingpatterns.pl?patternid
> =9678 -- if anyone wants to see it.
>
> I'm already planning taper from a size 26 on the top to a 30 below the
> waist, to deal with my wider hips. But I noticed when I was looking over
> the measurements that my front waist length (shoulder to waist over the
> breast) is *way* out of whack, which I can only assume is because of cup
> size?
>
> Do I "simply" do a slash and spread, as illustrated in the full bust
> enlargement here (and thanks to whomever posted that link):
> http://www.sew-whats-new.com/petite-plus/article3/
>
> Or...? And will this adjustment make anything go weird and make me panic?
> :)
>
> I really like this pattern; I've got two nice pieces of linen (well, one
> linen and one linen blend) which I think will make up quite nicely, and I
> think the dress will be at least not unflattering, so I don't want to screw
> it up -- the idea of putting in the zippers was stressful enough without a
> serious bit of pattern fiddling.
>
> Thanks for your thoughts. :)
> -j
--
I fear me you but warm the starved snake
Who, cherished in your breasts, will sting your hearts. (Henry VI,Shakespeare)
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