can someone answer me please- hood on shirt
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can someone answer me please- hood on shirt SayHaw 04-17-2008
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Posted by SayHaw on April 17, 2008, 11:40 pm
I posted a bit ago and got no replies. I would like to know what to
do after I add a hood on a shirt. Am I suppose to sew something over
the seam or leave the seam with rough edges? Please someone answer me
or direct me to a link to explain what to do. I don't have a lot of
sewing experience, so simple is best. Thank you.

Posted by claireowen on April 18, 2008, 2:12 am
SayHaw a écrit :
> I posted a bit ago and got no replies. I would like to know what to
> do after I add a hood on a shirt. Am I suppose to sew something over
> the seam or leave the seam with rough edges? Please someone answer me
> or direct me to a link to explain what to do. I don't have a lot of
> sewing experience, so simple is best. Thank you.

If it were me I would trim the seam as much as is possible and use a
bias tape to cover the raw edges. Contrasting colours can make a nice
feature if you don't have an exact match for the tape.
If your hood is double layered, quite a few of my son's t-shirt ones are
you could make the inner one slightly longer at the part where you join
to the neck and either over lock/serge the edge and stitch down over the
raw seam or turn the edge under over the top of the raw seam and stitch
down if you don't have a way to over lock the edge. This would be
similar to the way I would stitch down the inside of a waistband so that
the stitches sit in the stitch line if the seam you made when attaching
the hood.

That's as far as my thinking takes me I hope that helps, I'm not very
good at describing the physical in words I hope you can see me waving my
hands to explain it properly.

Claire in Montréal France
http://claireowenperso.free.fr

Posted by SayHaw on May 5, 2008, 12:13 am
> SayHaw a =EF=BF=BDcrit :
>
> > I posted a bit ago and got no replies. =C2=A0I would like to know what t=
o
> > do after I add a hood on a shirt. =C2=A0Am I suppose to sew something ov=
er
> > the seam or leave the seam with rough edges? Please someone answer me
> > or direct me to a link to explain what to do. =C2=A0I don't have a lot o=
f
> > sewing experience, so simple is best. =C2=A0Thank you.
>
> If it were me I would trim the seam as much as is possible and use a
> bias tape to cover the raw edges. Contrasting colours can make a nice
> feature if you don't have an exact match for the tape.
> If your hood is double layered, quite a few of my son's t-shirt ones are
> you could make the inner one slightly longer at the part where you join
> to the neck and either over lock/serge the edge and stitch down over the
> raw seam or turn the edge under over the top of the raw seam and stitch
> down if you don't have a way to over lock the edge. This would be
> similar to the way I would stitch down the inside of a waistband so that
> the stitches sit in the stitch line if the seam you made when attaching
> the hood.
>
> That's as far as my thinking takes me I hope that helps, I'm not very
> good at describing the physical in words I hope you can see me waving my
> hands to explain it properly.
>
> Claire in Montr=EF=BF=BDal Francehttp://claireowenperso.free.fr

Thank you very much....

Posted by Kay Lancaster on April 18, 2008, 11:42 am
> I posted a bit ago and got no replies. I would like to know what to
> do after I add a hood on a shirt. Am I suppose to sew something over
> the seam or leave the seam with rough edges? Please someone answer me

I'd fell the seam by reducing the neckline seam allowance only
to a scant 1/4", then folding the hood seam allowance under and stitching
that down over the hood seam allowance. Try it first on scraps, and if the
fabric you're using is firmly woven, baste it by hand before machine sewing
the fell. This is the same sort of finish you'd use for the armscye or for
a jeans leg seam.
http://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/ss/flatfelled_3.htm

A neckline is not the place I'd probably teach someone to do their first
felled seam, but it can be done -- just take it slowly.

Alternatively, if the fabric is heavy and uncooperative (like a heavy
denim), I'd probably serge the neckline, and then topstitch the serging down
like a mock-felled seam. Or I'd serge and then cover the serged seam with
a Hong-Kong binding cut from lightweight lining fabric.

I'm presuming you don't have a serger, so you could do the same sort of
idea by trimming your seam allowance to a 1/4" and then zigzagging over
the cut edge, then stitching the seam allowance down flat. See the green
sample on the bottom of page 108 (you may also recognize this from inside
a jeans leg!) http://preview.tinyurl.com/5s4rlb which is:
<http://books.google.com/books?id=0xG8XcpSsM4C&pg=PA107&lpg
=PA107&dq=serger+felled+seam&source=web&ots=uty_5uwux0&sig=
DqU9mfXHFUMdcdOWATzxZ9RylKY&hl=en#PPA108,M1

"Normal" Hong Kong binding:
http://www.timmelfabrics.com/seamfinishes.htm -- the variation I'd do, however,
would be to wrap the binding around the serged/zigzagged seam, and press flat.
This adds a bit of bulk (which is why it's traditionally done with lining-
weight silk), but I've also done it with any lightweight fabric appropriate
for the garment. *very* lightweight is the key.


Posted by SayHaw on May 5, 2008, 12:14 am
ote:
> > I posted a bit ago and got no replies. =A0I would like to know what to
> > do after I add a hood on a shirt. =A0Am I suppose to sew something over
> > the seam or leave the seam with rough edges? Please someone answer me
>
> I'd fell the seam by reducing the neckline seam allowance only
> to a scant 1/4", then folding the hood seam allowance under and stitching
> that down over the hood seam allowance. =A0 Try it first on scraps, and if=
the
> fabric you're using is firmly woven, baste it by hand before machine sewin=
g
> the fell. =A0This is the same sort of finish you'd use for the armscye or =
for
> a jeans leg seam.http://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/ss/flatfelled_3.htm=

>
> A neckline is not the place I'd probably teach someone to do their first
> felled seam, but it can be done -- just take it slowly.
>
> Alternatively, if the fabric is heavy and uncooperative (like a heavy
> denim), I'd probably serge the neckline, and then topstitch the serging do=
wn
> like a mock-felled seam. =A0Or I'd serge and then cover the serged seam wi=
th
> a Hong-Kong binding cut from lightweight lining fabric.
>
> I'm presuming you don't have a serger, so you could do the same sort of
> idea by trimming your seam allowance to a 1/4" and then zigzagging over
> the cut edge, then stitching the seam allowance down flat. =A0See the gree=
n
> sample on the bottom of page 108 (you may also recognize this from inside
> a jeans leg!)http://preview.tinyurl.com/5s4rlbwhich is:
> <http://books.google.com/books?id=3D0xG8XcpSsM4C&pg=3DPA107&lpg
> =3DPA107&dq=3Dserger+felled+seam&source=3Dweb&ots=3Duty_5uwux0&sig=3D
> DqU9mfXHFUMdcdOWATzxZ9RylKY&hl=3Den#PPA108,M1
>
> "Normal" Hong Kong binding:http://www.timmelfabrics.com/seamfinishes.htm--=
the variation I'd do, however,
> would be to wrap the binding around the serged/zigzagged seam, and press f=
lat.
> This adds a bit of bulk (which is why it's traditionally done with lining-=

> weight silk), but I've also done it with any lightweight fabric appropriat=
e
> for the garment. =A0*very* lightweight is the key.

thank you very much....

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