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Posted by on April 25, 2006, 4:35 pm
I'm using crepe backed satin for the first time. I've never sewn with a
shiney fabric like this before. Is there anything I should be wary
about before I start?
Thanks` :)
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Posted by Kate Dicey on April 25, 2006, 5:28 pm
ena86@hotmail.com wrote:
> I'm using crepe backed satin for the first time. I've never sewn with a
> shiney fabric like this before. Is there anything I should be wary
> about before I start?
>
> Thanks` :)
>
Everything! ;)
If it's the poly stuff, it'll creep, stretch, pucker, fall on the floor,
wrinkle so you cannot press it properly, and snag on the tiniest thing!
The up side is that it's as tough as old boots and washable! :)
I have sewn MASSES of this stuff! I'm good at it - but even I have
problems at times! Just be careful and follow my golden rules:
Use VERY FINE new pins! Pretend it's expensive silk!
Use a fine new needle: a 60 or 70. Use good quality poly thread to go
with it!
Baste anything that has any bias to it!
Stay-stitch all necklines, armholes, sleeve heads, and the facings that
go with them!
Use a pressing cloth! Press, don't iron!
Fusible interfacing WILL stick - eventually! You'll need to use a
slightly cooler iron, more steam, and press for a longer period, but it
will eventually stick.
It responds better to serged seams than straight stitched ones,
especially on flared/bias pieces.
Concealed zips look waaaaaay better than any other sort!
Hems will need to be done by hand if you can't roll them on the serger.
There are a few projects I've done in this stuff on my web site: the
Ladies in Red in the Wedding Gallery (they don't show to great advantage
on the stand), the Bias Cut Disaster stuff in The Learning Zone (made
matte side out), and a gown in the costume gallery that has a full
circle skirt. This is the tip of the iceberg for me! I've also made
capes, kimonos, and a host of other stuff over the years. Oh, and
there's an example of it not at all shown to advantage in the Hysterical
Costuming section: look at What The Dickens. That dress needs to be
made of taffeta, but the customer had already panic bough 16m of this
stuff...
If you run into any problems, shout!
--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
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Posted by on April 25, 2006, 6:19 pm
I'd just like to say that i LOVE your site. It's beyond helpful!
I just had a quick question about your post though. What do you mean by
"Baste anything that has any bias to it!"? The skirt part of my dress
is biased cut, so I wanna make sure I do it right!
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Posted by Kate Dicey on April 25, 2006, 7:15 pm
ena86@hotmail.com wrote:
> I'd just like to say that i LOVE your site. It's beyond helpful!
Thank you. :)
>
> I just had a quick question about your post though. What do you mean by
> "Baste anything that has any bias to it!"? The skirt part of my dress
> is biased cut, so I wanna make sure I do it right!
>
Baste it by hand, using EITHER fine silk thread OR machine embroidery
thread (great for this and buttonholes!), and sew with a smallish stitch
on a very narrow zigzag, like those seams I did/replaced in the bias cut
disasters. This will prevent a lot of tears and swearing as it will
minimize creep as you sew. And the silk/embroidery thread won't leave
big holes if you have to alter the seams, and will slide out much more
easily than basting thread - which is often rough old stuff! Try it on
before you sew those seams, too! Also, if you have one, try either a
roller foot (has little rollers or wheels in) or a walking/even feed
foot (gives you feed teeth on top) for sewing the seams. They also help
a lot. If this is for a posh and important occasion, the expense is
worth it and you'll use them again! :)
Then hang it up or (preferably!) put it on a dress dummy and let it hang
for a week before you do the hem! :)
--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
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Posted by on April 25, 2006, 8:33 pm
thank you. that's awesome advice! i totally wouldn't have thought to do
that-baste and then zigzag.. i'm so used to using a straight stitch!.
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