crepe backed satin
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crepe backed satin ena86 04-25-2006
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Posted by on April 28, 2006, 12:46 pm
hey kate... may i please ask one more question :)

so on the pattern, instead of bust darts, there are gathers under the
busts instead. now, i'm having some trouble getting them to look nice.
the pattern doesn't specify where to place the basting for the gathers
ie, at the seam line? or a little below? etc. also the bodice is lined,
so should i baste and gather through the lining as well or just the
crepe backed satin? and would you suggest larger stitches for the baste
or smaller ones?

thank you so much!!


Posted by Kate Dicey on April 28, 2006, 7:00 pm
ena86@hotmail.com wrote:

> hey kate... may i please ask one more question :)

of course! :)
>
> so on the pattern, instead of bust darts, there are gathers under the
> busts instead. now, i'm having some trouble getting them to look nice.
> the pattern doesn't specify where to place the basting for the gathers
> ie, at the seam line? or a little below? etc. also the bodice is lined,
> so should i baste and gather through the lining as well or just the
> crepe backed satin? and would you suggest larger stitches for the baste
> or smaller ones?

Gather both the lining and the fashion fabric. There *should* be a
couple of dotd on the seam line to tell you where to gather between.

Use a slightly larger machine stitch than you'll use to sew the seam.
and do two lines of stitching about 1/8th of an inch apart, just a tad
inside the seam line.
>
> thank you so much!!
>
You're welcome. :)

--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

Posted by Kate Dicey on April 26, 2006, 3:34 am
ena86@hotmail.com wrote:

> yup, i went with the new look one. have you sewn this before? any
> pointers if you have? :)
>
> "Kate: I looked at the pattern instructions and they give *no* extra
> seam allowance or special instructions for the bias skirt. It has a
> center back zipper that goes from a straight grain bodice to the bias
> skirt."
>
> ^ is there somethng that's not in the pattern insturctions that i
> should do? or look out for?
>
> :)
>
The classic way to cut bias garments is with a wider seam allowance to
make room for extra drop on some fabrics... Floppier ones tend to drop
more. Just add a bit before you cut, but mark where the seam SHOULD be,
and sew on that line. I usually allow an inch seam allowance on soft
tight weaves, and more on open weaves as they drop more.

--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

Posted by Kate Dicey on April 26, 2006, 3:30 am
wurstergirl wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I kind of missed something. Did you decide to go with the New Look
> 6348 pattern? Kate is a terrific resource to give the pointer to
> before you start. She can save you tons of heartache with advice.
> (Kate: I looked at the pattern instructions and they give *no* extra
> seam allowance or special instructions for the bias skirt. It has a
> center back zipper that goes from a straight grain bodice to the bias
> skirt.)

SH**T! (Fill in as you see fit!)

Best thing will be a concealed zip*: put the dress on, AFTER it's hung a
few days, and them MEASURE down the dress WITH THE ZIP to see where the
end lands... When you take the dress off, lay it out so that you can
squish the skirt into this measurement. You'll see how on the bias
disaster page. Look at how I did this on those dresses, and do the same
for the skirt section of the zip. Any confusion or problems, shout.
>
> One of my favorite ways to work with slinky fabrics is to use the
> Totally Stable fusible paper. You can stitch right through it and peel
> it off easily afterwards. Would be useful for that narrow rolled hem
> on the bias skirt. (Don't iron all the way to the edge, so it can roll
> freely.)
>
> What color did you choose for your crepe back satin? I love that
> fabric to wear. It will be really pretty!!!
>
>
> Pora
>
> Pora
>
* Remember, with a concealed zip, buy a couple of inches longer than
needed: you can't sew to the end of it! Keep this in mind when you do
the measuring.

The classic way with a concealed zip is to put it in BEFORE sewing the
seam. This *is* best, but you can usually manage by just ending the
seam 2-3 inches below where you want the zip to end, and joining the
dots... :)

--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

Posted by wurstergirl on April 26, 2006, 5:08 am
Re: !@#$%
Yes, I thought the zipper issue was kind of difficult. The
professional seamstress who made the bias dress I wore to my sister's
wedding never got that zipper right, though she tried 3 times. Her
poor slave helper had to keep ripping it out. Eventually we just ran
out of time and I had to wear it with the little end pointing out of my
butt. Pretty awful for $300 worth of 4-ply silk.

Oy, what time is it?

Pora


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