??hem pay rates??

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??hem pay rates?? janebalm@gmail.com 01-08-2007
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Posted by janebalm@gmail.com on January 8, 2007, 7:47 am
Hello Everyone,

First a big THANK YOU to you all. I've just spent a good chunk of time
reading some of your discussions and I can't tell you how much I
appreciate all this information.

My dilemma is that I have no idea what a fair rate is to charge to do
hems. I got this job a couple of weeks ago doing alterations at
home(mainly hems and zippers) for a mid to high end vintage store in
New York City. It looks like it will be an ongoing thing, which I
love, but before my new boss and I get settled into our numbers (she
still checks with me when I drop orders off to make sure I feel
comfortable continuing), I'd like to know for sure that the money is
right. And if it isn't so far, I'd like to know what I should
realistically expect to get paid for my work and how to approach her
about it with confidence. I do great work, I just have never known for
sure what to charge.
Please help.

The ad said $15/hour. What it turns out to be is $6 per hem (and since
I pointed out ,nicely of course, that a lined garment takes more time
to handle, $10/hem on lined dresses) so my hourly wage depends on the
time it takes me to do each piece. I've been told that the person who
had this job before me took about 15 minutes per hem from start to
finish (laying out, marking, cutting, sewing, pressing) and so far, I
haven't been able to match that speed. Every garment handles
differently from the others in some way. Each one can take me anywhere
between 15 and 30 (sometimes 40) minutes, depending on the piece. I
really like this client, so:

1) Is $6-$10/hem a fair price?...If not, how do I approach my new boss
about it with tact?

2) Should my travel time, my lugging the suitcase (on wheels, to be
fair) full of dresses to and fro and my thread supply (which I had from
being a sewing junkie) somehow be accounted for in my pay?...And if so,
how do I bring that up in a nice way?

I'd be grateful for any advice/information you all are willing to
share.

Thank you

jane


Posted by Sharon Hays on January 9, 2007, 9:54 am

> 1) Is $6-$10/hem a fair price?...If not, how do I approach my new boss
> about it with tact?
Jane,

It's fair....to your client. But it wouldn't be worth *my* time to do hems
for that. Remember that you are doing this as a Business. Not a hobby that
sort of pays for itself.

How I always priced alterations was as a portion of my hourly rate.
Customers like a flat rate structure for alterations. But they also like an
hourly rate for custom made clothing. Works for me. If a hem took me 15
minutes the first time I did it, that's 1/4 of an hour. So decide how much
you want to make per hour. Remember to add in your costs. You have
electricity, wear and tear on your machines, etc. (and that's where your
thread cost comes in too.) Pick a number you like for your hourly rate.
Figure that 1/3 will go in your pocket. The rest will go back for taxes and
operating costs. Time yourself over the next few items. If it takes you 20
minutes to do the next pants hem, then that's your time. That's 1/3 of an
hour. So if your hourly rate is $30 (I like easy math) then your charge for
those pants would be $10. Then the rest of the math is that $4 of that goes
in your pocket, and $6 goes in the savings/business operation account. Is
that enough to make it worthwhile to you? You really are the only one that
can answer that. When I was doing alterations in a very small, rural town,
pants were $7, lined pants were $12, jeans were $7, jacket sleeves were $10,
and skirts were $20 per layer if they were full. For example, a prom gown
with a lined satin skirt with a chiffon overlay would be $60 to hem. ($20
for the lining + $20 for the skirt + $20 for the overlay = $60.)

If I were to start up alterations here in the city where I live now (it's a
long story why I'm not working from home now, and involves a WHOLE lot of
bureaucratic red tape) I would have to double my prices to make it
profitable for me. My old pay structure was based on $15 per hour. I would
have to go to $25-$30 per hour to make it worthwhile now. My market in the
old town would only pay $15 per hour. (matter of fact a $10 per hour job
was a Really Good Job in the little town.) Out here, I could very easily
raise my rates to a more comfortable range for myself, and still have plenty
of work.

Keep in mind too, that your work time will get faster the more you do this.
When I was in full swing, I could do 8 or 10 pairs of jeans in 90 minutes.
(That was $56-$70 charged to the client, not $45.) That will help increase
your profits. Because you Do Not reduce your prices to reflect that. You
will still (even after months of doing nothing but hemming) find one pair of
pants or one skirt that will drive you bug nuts. The hem won't lay in the
way you want it; the crease won't press well; something weird will happen.
When it does, you will go over your time on that job, but you won't raise
your price on that one job to reflect that overage. You will eat it on that
one. That will usually always happen when you are buried under with work
waiting on you too. (notice I did not say If, I said When. Trust me, it
happens to all of us.)

As for how to approach the shop owner... Remember you are a Business
Person. Handle it in a professional manner. Look into having a formal
contract drawn up between you and the shop owner. I never did ANYTHING
without a signed contract. I don't care if it was one pair of jeans hemmed
for a person I would never see again. I didn't touch it without a contract
signed between the two of us. One copy stayed in my file. One copy went out
the door with the client. In your case, a signed contract between you and
the shop owner should be enough. A signed contract will protect Both of you
in this, so no one should be opposed to it. (if the shop owner balks at
something that formal, it's time to find someone else to work with/for.)
The contract is where you line out Everything. Your pay structure, your
turn around time, your pick up/delivery terms and times, and also what you
expect the shop owner to do. Will they be marking the hems? Will they be
fitting the actual clients? (and if so, you need to figure how much of your
time that is worth. It's not unusual to state $XX dollars as your normal
base with at % discount given to this shop owner if they do the fittings.
That is, however, entirely up to you.) You can write all this up yourself,
or you can hire an attorney to do it for you. If you write it yourself, you
need to check state laws to make sure you are writing it within those. If
you decide to hire an attorney, look at it as a very wise investment in your
business.


>
> 2) Should my travel time, my lugging the suitcase (on wheels, to be
> fair) full of dresses to and fro and my thread supply (which I had from
> being a sewing junkie) somehow be accounted for in my pay?...And if so,
> how do I bring that up in a nice way?


Ok. This can be handled a couple of different ways. You can either charge
your hourly rate for the travel time, or you can claim travel expense on
your taxes. Totally up to you. Your thread (and needles, and razor blades,
and serger cones,) like I said above, needs to just be accounted for in your
operating costs. Yeah, you had it on hand, but you will have to replace it
eventually. That's why you sock 2/3 of the money you bring in away.

As for how you bring it up, go back to your contract. Figure out how to
write that in with your other terms. And Stop worrying about being "nice."
Nice is overrated sometimes. I'm nice to people I like. My neighbors, my
friends, my family, folks on here. I'm not worried about being "nice" to
people I do business with. Am I rude? No. Am I polite? You betcha. Do I
chat with clients? Well sure, they are usually standing in front of me in
their underwear. Ya gotta do something to take the edge off that, right???
lol But I don't worry about being "nice." I am professional, I am
businesslike. Because when I work with a client, first and foremost, they
are coming to me looking for a Professional who has a skill set (and the
equipment needed for that skill set) that they need. They are not looking
to be my pal. They are just looking for me to dress them well. Make sense?
In your case, the shop owner will probably value you more if you worry more
about keeping this a Professional relationship rather than a Nice
relationship. One business owner to another, not a coupla pals hanging out.
Make sense?

Sharon

--
Never try to teach a pig to sing. It's a waste of time and just annoys the
pig.



Posted by Sharon Hays on January 9, 2007, 12:22 pm

>>
> Keep in mind too, that your work time will get faster the more you do
this.
> When I was in full swing, I could do 8 or 10 pairs of jeans in 90 minutes.
> (That was $56-$70 charged to the client, not $45.)

That should read $56-$70 charged to the client not $22.50. This is what
happens when I type early in the morning before the coffee fully kicks in.
;)

Sharon

--
Never try to teach a pig to sing. It's a waste of time and just annoys the
pig.



Posted by claireowen on January 10, 2007, 9:41 am
Sharon Hays a écrit :
>> 1) Is $6-$10/hem a fair price?...If not, how do I approach my new boss
>> about it with tact?
> Jane,
>
> It's fair....to your client. But it wouldn't be worth *my* time to do hems
> for that. Remember that you are doing this as a Business. Not a hobby that
> sort of pays for itself.
>
> How I always priced alterations was as a portion of my hourly rate.
> Customers like a flat rate structure for alterations. But they also like an
> hourly rate for custom made clothing. Works for me. If a hem took me 15
> minutes the first time I did it, that's 1/4 of an hour. So decide how much
> you want to make per hour. Remember to add in your costs. You have
> electricity, wear and tear on your machines, etc. (and that's where your
> thread cost comes in too.) Pick a number you like for your hourly rate.
> Figure that 1/3 will go in your pocket. The rest will go back for taxes and
> operating costs. Time yourself over the next few items. If it takes you 20
> minutes to do the next pants hem, then that's your time. That's 1/3 of an
> hour. So if your hourly rate is $30 (I like easy math) then your charge for
> those pants would be $10. Then the rest of the math is that $4 of that goes
> in your pocket, and $6 goes in the savings/business operation account. Is
> that enough to make it worthwhile to you? You really are the only one that
> can answer that. When I was doing alterations in a very small, rural town,
> pants were $7, lined pants were $12, jeans were $7, jacket sleeves were $10,
> and skirts were $20 per layer if they were full. For example, a prom gown
> with a lined satin skirt with a chiffon overlay would be $60 to hem. ($20
> for the lining + $20 for the skirt + $20 for the overlay = $60.)
>
> If I were to start up alterations here in the city where I live now (it's a
> long story why I'm not working from home now, and involves a WHOLE lot of
> bureaucratic red tape) I would have to double my prices to make it
> profitable for me. My old pay structure was based on $15 per hour. I would
> have to go to $25-$30 per hour to make it worthwhile now. My market in the
> old town would only pay $15 per hour. (matter of fact a $10 per hour job
> was a Really Good Job in the little town.) Out here, I could very easily
> raise my rates to a more comfortable range for myself, and still have plenty
> of work.
>
> Keep in mind too, that your work time will get faster the more you do this.
> When I was in full swing, I could do 8 or 10 pairs of jeans in 90 minutes.
> (That was $56-$70 charged to the client, not $45.) That will help increase
> your profits. Because you Do Not reduce your prices to reflect that. You
> will still (even after months of doing nothing but hemming) find one pair of
> pants or one skirt that will drive you bug nuts. The hem won't lay in the
> way you want it; the crease won't press well; something weird will happen.
> When it does, you will go over your time on that job, but you won't raise
> your price on that one job to reflect that overage. You will eat it on that
> one. That will usually always happen when you are buried under with work
> waiting on you too. (notice I did not say If, I said When. Trust me, it
> happens to all of us.)
>
> As for how to approach the shop owner... Remember you are a Business
> Person. Handle it in a professional manner. Look into having a formal
> contract drawn up between you and the shop owner. I never did ANYTHING
> without a signed contract. I don't care if it was one pair of jeans hemmed
> for a person I would never see again. I didn't touch it without a contract
> signed between the two of us. One copy stayed in my file. One copy went out
> the door with the client. In your case, a signed contract between you and
> the shop owner should be enough. A signed contract will protect Both of you
> in this, so no one should be opposed to it. (if the shop owner balks at
> something that formal, it's time to find someone else to work with/for.)
> The contract is where you line out Everything. Your pay structure, your
> turn around time, your pick up/delivery terms and times, and also what you
> expect the shop owner to do. Will they be marking the hems? Will they be
> fitting the actual clients? (and if so, you need to figure how much of your
> time that is worth. It's not unusual to state $XX dollars as your normal
> base with at % discount given to this shop owner if they do the fittings.
> That is, however, entirely up to you.) You can write all this up yourself,
> or you can hire an attorney to do it for you. If you write it yourself, you
> need to check state laws to make sure you are writing it within those. If
> you decide to hire an attorney, look at it as a very wise investment in your
> business.
>
>
>> 2) Should my travel time, my lugging the suitcase (on wheels, to be
>> fair) full of dresses to and fro and my thread supply (which I had from
>> being a sewing junkie) somehow be accounted for in my pay?...And if so,
>> how do I bring that up in a nice way?
>
>
> Ok. This can be handled a couple of different ways. You can either charge
> your hourly rate for the travel time, or you can claim travel expense on
> your taxes. Totally up to you. Your thread (and needles, and razor blades,
> and serger cones,) like I said above, needs to just be accounted for in your
> operating costs. Yeah, you had it on hand, but you will have to replace it
> eventually. That's why you sock 2/3 of the money you bring in away.
>
> As for how you bring it up, go back to your contract. Figure out how to
> write that in with your other terms. And Stop worrying about being "nice."
> Nice is overrated sometimes. I'm nice to people I like. My neighbors, my
> friends, my family, folks on here. I'm not worried about being "nice" to
> people I do business with. Am I rude? No. Am I polite? You betcha. Do I
> chat with clients? Well sure, they are usually standing in front of me in
> their underwear. Ya gotta do something to take the edge off that, right???
> lol But I don't worry about being "nice." I am professional, I am
> businesslike. Because when I work with a client, first and foremost, they
> are coming to me looking for a Professional who has a skill set (and the
> equipment needed for that skill set) that they need. They are not looking
> to be my pal. They are just looking for me to dress them well. Make sense?
> In your case, the shop owner will probably value you more if you worry more
> about keeping this a Professional relationship rather than a Nice
> relationship. One business owner to another, not a coupla pals hanging out.
> Make sense?
>
> Sharon
>
Beautifully explained Sharon

(clap,clap, clap)
Claire in Montréal France
http://claireowenperso.free.fr

Posted by Sharon Hays on January 11, 2007, 10:20 pm

>> >
> Beautifully explained Sharon
>
> (clap,clap, clap)
> Claire in Montréal France
> http://claireowenperso.free.fr


Thank you, Claire. <<curtsey>>

I've been so lucky to have long time sewing professionals explain all that
to me (more than once!!) So I'm very happy to pass the knowledge along. ;)

Sharon

--
Never try to teach a pig to sing. It's a waste of time and just annoys the
pig.



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