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Posted by Sparafucile on November 10, 2007, 12:52 pm
Hi all,
I've hemmed a few pair of pants, and thought that I'd convert my two
older pair of Dockers to shorts, ending about one inch above the knee.
So I hemmed the first as if they were long pants (cut two inches
below desired length, turn in and press a fold at 1/2 inch, then do
the same 1 1/2 inches higher). I pinned and sewed, only to find that
as I came back to where I started, I now had an extra fold of fabric
on the right side.
I was puzzled, but then studied the second (uncut) pair, and noticed
that there was a great deal of taper between the crotch and knee - so
much so, that folding two inches produced an "inner" diameter that is
significantly narrower than the outer because of the taper. (I hope
that I explained this well... I'm not familiar with sewing lingo yet)
So back at the ironing board, I see that I can only turn in about 3/8
inch before the taper causes the buckle, and the only solution I can
think of is to overcast the edge, and hem 3/8 - but I think that
doesn't look great, and worry that a simple overcast will not stand up
on a frequently washed garment.
I guess one could fold the 3/8 inch as if it were a rolled hem, but
that looks quite narrow, and aside from the looks, I wonder how
difficult a narrow rolled hem would be for a beginner.
I'm going to assume that there is a better way of doing this; can any
of you give me some suggestions, please.
Thanks in advance; I appreciate your help!
--
Ciao,
Serge
11/10/2007 12:42:41 PM
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Posted by on November 10, 2007, 2:18 pm
Dear Serge,
The most you can turn in on a tapered hem is 5/8 inch. Fold 5/16
first, then another 5/16 to sew. The alternative is to re-cut the
pants by folding up the desired hem, then taper while the hem is
folded in. This gives you the extra fabric needed to get a smooth
hem. But this isn't always possible, unless you're working with
straight leg pants.
Teri
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Posted by Pogonip on November 10, 2007, 2:43 pm
gpjteri@gmail.com wrote:
> Dear Serge,
>
> The most you can turn in on a tapered hem is 5/8 inch. Fold 5/16
> first, then another 5/16 to sew. The alternative is to re-cut the
> pants by folding up the desired hem, then taper while the hem is
> folded in. This gives you the extra fabric needed to get a smooth
> hem. But this isn't always possible, unless you're working with
> straight leg pants.
>
> Teri
>
If it is important enough, what I've done is to make a facing from the
lower leg that's been cut off. It does have to be pieced because that
part is so narrow, but make the facing, attach to the bottom of the new
cut, and you're done. On jeans, I tend to cut a new facing from a
colorful cotton print. It doesn't show, but I know it's there.
--
Joanne
stitches @ singerlady.reno.nv.us.earth.milky-way.com
http://members.tripod.com/~bernardschopen/
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Posted by Olwyn Mary on November 10, 2007, 6:01 pm
Pogonip wrote:
> gpjteri@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Dear Serge,
>>
>> The most you can turn in on a tapered hem is 5/8 inch. Fold 5/16
>> first, then another 5/16 to sew. The alternative is to re-cut the
>> pants by folding up the desired hem, then taper while the hem is
>> folded in. This gives you the extra fabric needed to get a smooth
>> hem. But this isn't always possible, unless you're working with
>> straight leg pants.
>>
>> Teri
>>
>
> If it is important enough, what I've done is to make a facing from the
> lower leg that's been cut off. It does have to be pieced because that
> part is so narrow, but make the facing, attach to the bottom of the new
> cut, and you're done. On jeans, I tend to cut a new facing from a
> colorful cotton print. It doesn't show, but I know it's there.
These are all the things the pros do, However, you can also unpick the
sideseams just up to where the new hemline will be, stitch up the hem
where it sits, then carefully reinforce the part at the bottom where the
unstitching stops and you have a v-shaped opening. I generally do a
sort of bartack on the inside, just so it doesn't come apart.
Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
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Posted by Sparafucile on November 11, 2007, 2:09 pm
On Sat, 10 Nov 2007 17:01:21 -0600, Olwyn Mary wrote:
>
> These are all the things the pros do, However, you can also unpick the
> sideseams just up to where the new hemline will be, stitch up the hem
> where it sits, then carefully reinforce the part at the bottom where the
> unstitching stops and you have a v-shaped opening. I generally do a
> sort of bartack on the inside, just so it doesn't come apart.
>
> Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.
Thank you, Olwin Mary! If Teri's suggestion won't work for me; I'll
try yours - I just don't know how the bar tack reinforcement will look
from the outside, which is why I'll try Teri's first. But thank you
for answering, and I filed your post away for the future!
You guys are a very nice group!
--
Ciao,
Serge
11/11/2007 2:06:16 PM
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