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Posted by Joy Beeson on November 11, 2007, 4:17 pm
wrote:
> I just don't know how the bar tack reinforcement will look
> from the outside,
Try stopping the unpicking a quarter inch from the hemline, so the bar
tack is on the inside where it doesn't show.
There's also a chance that there will be enough seam allowance to
re-sew all or most of the V gap instead of making a bar tack. You'll
have to do the re-sewing by hand. Well, theoretically, it's
possible to open the seam and re-stitch it exactly enough wider, but
it's *much* easier to hand-sew it lying flat where it belongs than to
open the seam *precisely* the right amount. Not to mention that when
hand-sewing you can re-seam part of the way up, then switch to
overcasting the raw edges when you run out of seam allowance.
Joy Beeson
--
joy beeson at comcast dot net
http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/ -- sewing
http://n3f.home.comcast.net/ -- Writers' Exchange
The above message is a Usenet post.
I don't recall having given anyone permission to use it on a Web site.
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Posted by Sparafucile on November 11, 2007, 2:14 pm
On Sat, 10 Nov 2007 11:43:26 -0800, Pogonip wrote:
>
> If it is important enough, what I've done is to make a facing from the
> lower leg that's been cut off. It does have to be pieced because that
> part is so narrow, but make the facing, attach to the bottom of the new
> cut, and you're done. On jeans, I tend to cut a new facing from a
> colorful cotton print. It doesn't show, but I know it's there.
I appreciate your response, but you've overestimated my skill level.
I've only had my machine for three weeks now, and while I can
understand what you are saying, I'm not sure that I won't make a mess
out of it. I wish I had someone to demo this for me because it sounds
like an elegant way to do it.
I'll print out your post and save it for the future when my hands
will catch up with my brain!
Thanks again, and I do appreciate your response! This is a great
newsgroup!
--
Ciao,
Serge
11/11/2007 2:09:44 PM
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Posted by on November 11, 2007, 4:14 pm
Dear Serge,
Here's how to make a facing for your hem (and anything else you want
to face). Turn your piece inside out, and smooth it flat, so that you
can see the seam allowances, as well as the shape. A facing needs to
be at least 2 inches wide. Trace around the shape, along the outside
edges of the seams, and the exact shape of the raw edge that needs to
be faced. Since you are doing pant legs, the back leg is wider than
the front leg, so smooth it out and trace from the back, then turn
over and smooth the front and trace it. Cut out the pieces. Sew the
inseam and outseam of the facing. Match the seams to the pant leg,
right sides together. Sew around the bottom edge. Trim one side of
the bottom seam, press the raw edges towards the facing, and turn to
the inside. Hand sew the top of the facing to the leg with tiny prick
stitches. (The reason for trimming one side of the seam is to keep
you from getting a ridge when you press.)
Teri
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Posted by Sparafucile on November 11, 2007, 2:06 pm
On Sat, 10 Nov 2007 11:18:19 -0800, gpjteri@gmail.com wrote:
> Dear Serge,
>
> The most you can turn in on a tapered hem is 5/8 inch. Fold 5/16
> first, then another 5/16 to sew. The alternative is to re-cut the
> pants by folding up the desired hem, then taper while the hem is
> folded in. This gives you the extra fabric needed to get a smooth
> hem. But this isn't always possible, unless you're working with
> straight leg pants.
>
> Teri
Thank you, Teri! I appreciate your help, and will follow your
instructions! If it gives me trouble, then I think I'll try Olwin
Mary's!
You guys are a very nice group!
--
Ciao,
Serge
11/11/2007 2:04:45 PM
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