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Posted by sarahstephen on May 3, 2009, 11:13 pm
Okay, I do understand what "understitching" is when it comes to collars,
but i'm
making a dress and it claims to be "easy", but I'm totally not
understanding what
understitching means in this context. The dress has a lining, cut out of
the same
pattern piece as the dress. I'm now at the point where I'm supposed to
sew the
lining to the dress..."with right sides together, pin lining to dress,
matching
seams and having raw edges even. UNDERSTITCH lining". I do not
understand,
please help!!!
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Posted by BEI Design on May 3, 2009, 11:27 pm
sarahstephen wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> Okay, I do understand what "understitching" is when it
> comes to collars, but i'm
> making a dress and it claims to be "easy", but I'm
> totally not understanding what
> understitching means in this context. The dress has a
> lining, cut out of the same
> pattern piece as the dress. I'm now at the point where
> I'm supposed to sew the
> lining to the dress..."with right sides together, pin
> lining to dress, matching
> seams and having raw edges even. UNDERSTITCH lining". I
> do not understand,
> please help!!!
Two-thirds of the way down this page is a picture of a
garment being understiched:
http://ickes.us/Recent.aspx
The fashion fabric piece is on the left, the lining (in this
case a wide facing) is on the right. After you have graded
the seams and clipped all curves, stitch *just* to the
lining side of the seam line, with both pieces
right-side-up. I tug gently at both sides as they pass
under the needle, you may find it easier to press lightly
before understitching.
I have another picture of the process here:
http://home.comcast.net/~beidesign/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-1554298.html
This one was a full lining, again the garment is on the
left, the lining is on the right side of the needle.
HTH,
--
Beverly
http://ickes.us/default.aspx
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Posted by on May 7, 2009, 8:28 am
wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> sarahstephen wrote:
> > Okay, I do understand what "understitching" is when it
> > comes to collars, but i'm
> > making a dress and it claims to be "easy", but I'm
> > totally not understanding what
> >understitchingmeans in this context. The dress has a
> > lining, cut out of the same
> > pattern piece as the dress. I'm now at the point where
> > I'm supposed to sew the
> > lining to the dress..."with right sides together, pin
> > lining to dress, matching
> > seams and having raw edges even. UNDERSTITCH lining". I
> > do not understand,
> > please help!!!
> Two-thirds of the way down this page is a picture of a
> garment being understiched:http://ickes.us/Recent.aspx
> The fashion fabric piece is on the left, the lining (in this
> case a wide facing) is on the right. After you have graded
> the seams and clipped all curves, stitch *just* to the
> lining side of the seam line, with both pieces
> right-side-up. I tug gently at both sides as they pass
> under the needle, you may find it easier to press lightly
> beforeunderstitching.
> I have another picture of the process
here:http://home.comcast.net/~beidesign/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--Site...
show/hide quoted text
> This one was a full lining, again the garment is on the
> left, the lining is on the right side of the needle.
> HTH,
> --
> Beverlyhttp://ickes.us/default.aspx
Beverly gave you great instructions. The one thing you need to always
remember about understitching-- You are stitching through the lining
and the seam allowance at the same time. What you are doing is
securing the lining to the seam allowance so the lining will always
fall to the inside of the garment. It makes the neckline (in this
case) lie down much more smoothly and evenly. I can almost always
tell looking at a garment if this step was included or skipped. The
skipped ones look sloppy.
The other great trick to learn for linings is a French tack. It's a
hand stitch, and it does take some practice and some time to do well.
But so worth the effort. If you what understitching does for the
neckline, these do for the hem line.
Sharon
---
Never try to teach a pig to sing. It's a waste of time and just
annoys the
pig.
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Posted by Olwyn Mary on May 7, 2009, 12:11 pm
mamahays@cox.net wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> Beverly gave you great instructions. The one thing you need to always
> remember about understitching-- You are stitching through the lining
> and the seam allowance at the same time. What you are doing is
> securing the lining to the seam allowance so the lining will always
> fall to the inside of the garment. It makes the neckline (in this
> case) lie down much more smoothly and evenly. I can almost always
> tell looking at a garment if this step was included or skipped. The
> skipped ones look sloppy.
>
> The other great trick to learn for linings is a French tack. It's a
> hand stitch, and it does take some practice and some time to do well.
> But so worth the effort. If you what understitching does for the
> neckline, these do for the hem line.
>
> Sharon
> ---
> Never try to teach a pig to sing. It's a waste of time and just
> annoys the
> pig.
Except that..........understitching never seems to work that well for
me. I don't know why, I always used to do it exactly as I was taught,
but somehow it just doesn't work. Oh well, there are other methods,
thank goodness.
Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.
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Posted by BEI Design on May 7, 2009, 12:21 pm
Olwyn Mary wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> mamahays@cox.net wrote:
> Except that..........understitching never seems to work
> that well for me. I don't know why, I always used to do
> it exactly as I was taught, but somehow it just doesn't
> work. Oh well, there are other methods, thank goodness.
Do you curve the seam as you are sewing to meet the curve of
the *facing*? I finally discovered that after a few
attempts did not work out well. For instance, for a jewell
neckline seam, I force the seam into a ) shape going
under the needle. Also I check often to be sure the entire
seam allowance is on the *right* (lining/facing) side of the
needle. Occasionally a notched or clipped seam allowance
wants little bits to wander over to the garment side.
--
Beverly
http://ickes.us/default.aspx
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> comes to collars, but i'm
> making a dress and it claims to be "easy", but I'm
> totally not understanding what
> understitching means in this context. The dress has a
> lining, cut out of the same
> pattern piece as the dress. I'm now at the point where
> I'm supposed to sew the
> lining to the dress..."with right sides together, pin
> lining to dress, matching
> seams and having raw edges even. UNDERSTITCH lining". I
> do not understand,
> please help!!!