interfacing for jacket
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interfacing for jacket tteigen 10-25-2007
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Posted by on October 25, 2007, 5:18 pm
I have it in my head I want to make a tailored jacket. I have some
"wool" fabric I bought for a couple of dollars at an estate sale that
will be my practice jacket. I currently have "Jackets for Real People
- Tailoring made easy" checked out from the library. In that book, the
authors talk about interfacing being a critical issue in good
tailoring. I have never had much luck with fusible Pellon and that is
all that the nearby Joann's store has. Does anyone have
recommendations on good interfacing to use in a tailored jacket and a
US source (mail-order or otherwise)? I do have some of the fusible
tricot weight stuff I got at the fabric district over in Dallas, but
I'm not sure that would be suitable for a tailored jacket.
Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

Nancy
Fort Worth, TX

Posted by BEI Design on October 25, 2007, 6:13 pm

tteigen@swbell.net wrote:
> I have it in my head I want to make a tailored jacket. I
> have some "wool" fabric I bought for a couple of dollars
> at an estate sale that will be my practice jacket. I
> currently have "Jackets for Real People - Tailoring made
> easy" checked out from the library. In that book, the
> authors talk about interfacing being a critical issue in
> good tailoring. I have never had much luck with fusible
> Pellon and that is all that the nearby Joann's store has.
> Does anyone have recommendations on good interfacing to
> use in a tailored jacket and a US source (mail-order or
> otherwise)? I do have some of the fusible tricot weight
> stuff I got at the fabric district over in Dallas, but
> I'm not sure that would be suitable for a tailored
> jacket. Any help or suggestions will be greatly
> appreciated!
>
> Nancy
> Fort Worth, TX

My first choice for a well-tailored jacket would be a good
hair canvas, sewn with hand padding stitches. For a woman's
jacket, for which you might want a less tailored look, knit
fusible is another option, but test swatches to be sure you
get the "hand" you're looking for. I have not used either
sewn in or fusible Pellon (or other non-woven) interfacing
for many years, it just does not ever give the desired
result. Hair canvas is often difficult to find (clerks at
TSWLTH will probably not know what it is), although I have a
local fabric store which stocks it. You can find it online:

http://www.habermanfabrics.com/scart/Lining_and_Interfacing.htm

http://www.thesewingplace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=930

http://www.baerfabrics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=5407HC110%2DYD

There is some really excellent information here about
interfacing a tailored jacket:
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00148.asp

NAYY,

Beverly



Posted by on October 25, 2007, 6:40 pm
Dear Nancy,

You need to experiment. The tricot you have can be used as an
underlining for the entire jacket. However, if the jacket has lapels,
you need something more supporting. If you decide to use hair canvas
for the lapel and collar, cut off all of the seam allowance, and
attach it by hand with all-over turkey stitches. If you can find it,
fusible hair canvas is great, but I haven't been able to find it the
last couple of years.

Throw away the Pellon, or use it for costumes worn once. It's
terrible, and should never be used in a tailoring project. You can
experiment with some of the woven interfacings as well. Some of them
seem to be flimsy, but have good staying ability. I think what I'm
describing is called weft insertion.

Something else I did for the last couple of jackets I made. I
finished them the way menswear is finished. As you know, the collar
is sewn to the front facing. The undercollar is sewn to the back neck
of the jacket. Instead of fighting all of this under the needle, I
pressed under the seam allowances on the lapel facing and upper
collar, then hand sewed the under collar to the upper collar. Sharp
corners and perfect lapels were the result. I'll always do this now.

Teri


Posted by Olwyn Mary on October 25, 2007, 10:51 pm
gpjteri@gmail.com wrote:
> Dear Nancy,
>
> You need to experiment. The tricot you have can be used as an
> underlining for the entire jacket. However, if the jacket has lapels,
> you need something more supporting. If you decide to use hair canvas
> for the lapel and collar, cut off all of the seam allowance, and
> attach it by hand with all-over turkey stitches. If you can find it,
> fusible hair canvas is great, but I haven't been able to find it the
> last couple of years.
>
> Throw away the Pellon, or use it for costumes worn once. It's
> terrible, and should never be used in a tailoring project. You can
> experiment with some of the woven interfacings as well. Some of them
> seem to be flimsy, but have good staying ability. I think what I'm
> describing is called weft insertion.
>
> Something else I did for the last couple of jackets I made. I
> finished them the way menswear is finished. As you know, the collar
> is sewn to the front facing. The undercollar is sewn to the back neck
> of the jacket. Instead of fighting all of this under the needle, I
> pressed under the seam allowances on the lapel facing and upper
> collar, then hand sewed the under collar to the upper collar. Sharp
> corners and perfect lapels were the result. I'll always do this now.
>
> Teri
>

Teri: Can you give us some brand names or other specifics? I have just
about given up on fusibles, because all of the ones I can buy at either
Hancock's or JoAnn's seem to pucker terribly, even though I am careful
to pre-shrink them first. As a result, I am using either sew-in
interfacing, or simply using various fabrics as interlinings.

Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com


Posted by on October 26, 2007, 10:29 am
Dear Olwyn Mary,

The only brand name I can think of offhand is Fusi-Knit. This is the
tricot stuff. And maybe the way you're preshrinking or attaching your
interfacing is the problem. To preshrink, I hold a steamy iron over
the interfacing, not touching it, and let it shrink from the heat. I
then attach it with lots of steam, ten seconds at each spot,
overlapping the spots til it's completely attached. I never have it
bubble or detach. I never use nonwoven interfacing, such as the
Pellon types.

Teri


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