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Posted by BEI Design on July 6, 2009, 7:56 pm
Sharon Hays wrote:
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> Olwyn.Mary wrote:
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> > Some commercial patterns are true to size, most of them
> > run large.
> > First, decide how much ease you need in your jacket,
> > then get out the pieces, iron them smooth, and find out
> > EXACTLY how big they are.
> > Remember to measure from stitching line to stitching
> > line, not including the seam allowances. You may find
> > out that this pattern will fit you,
> > or you may need to do a little "slash and spread" work.
> > Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.
> I agree completely. Also, when I need to go up a good
> ways, I start with a muslin. I don't try to go right to
> my good fabric.
> I would measure the pattern, then if it's anywhere close
> (and it could be)
Yes, but allow for some ease! Vogue has a chart with
suggested amount of ease for different kinds of garments.
http://www.voguepatterns.com/indextec.htm
click "Ease Chart". Something close to those additional
inches should be added to the "body measurements" in order
to establish whether the pattern comes close 'as is'.
show/hide quoted text
> I would make it up just as is, no
> increasing anything in the cheap fabric. That's
> absolutely the Best way to see where you need to adjust.
> It takes time but it's worth it.
Agreed. And then once a good altered pattern is created,
you can make additional garments from it with much fuss.
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> Then if you need help figuring out where to alter, post
> pics of the jacket on you. We can all jump in and do a
> virtual fitting for you. ;)
Did OP ever list a pattern number, I must have missed it.
Beverly
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Posted by betsey on July 6, 2009, 9:28 pm
wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> Sharon Hays wrote:
> > Olwyn.Mary wrote:
> > > Some commercial patterns are true to size, most of them
> > > run large.
> > > First, decide how much ease you need in your jacket,
> > > then get out the pieces, iron them smooth, and find out
> > > EXACTLY how big they are.
> > > Remember to measure from stitching line to stitching
> > > line, not including the seam allowances. =A0You may find
> > > out that this pattern will fit you,
> > > or you may need to do a little "slash and spread" work.
> > > Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.
> > I agree completely. =A0Also, when I need to go up a good
> > ways, I start with a muslin. =A0I don't try to go right to
> > my good fabric.
> > I would measure the pattern, then if it's anywhere close
> > (and it could be)
> Yes, but allow for some ease! =A0Vogue has a chart with
> suggested amount of ease for different kinds of garments.http://www.vogue=
patterns.com/indextec.htm
show/hide quoted text
> click "Ease Chart". =A0Something close to those additional
> inches should be added to the "body measurements" in order
> to establish whether the pattern comes close 'as is'.
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0I would make it up just as is, no
> > increasing anything in the cheap fabric. That's
> > absolutely the Best way to see where you need to adjust.
> > It takes time but it's worth it.
> Agreed. =A0And then once a good altered pattern is created,
> you can make additional garments from it with much fuss.
> > Then if you need help figuring out where to alter, post
> > pics of the jacket on you. =A0We can all jump in and do a
> > virtual fitting for you. ;)
> Did OP ever list a pattern number, I must have missed it.
> Beverly- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
thank you everybody for your help! i'm going to attempt it....(and
goodness knows I have enough fabric laying around...)
Its suitability 5000....
betsey
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Posted by BEI Design on July 7, 2009, 12:08 am
betsey wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> thank you everybody for your help! i'm going to attempt
> it....(and
> goodness knows I have enough fabric laying around...)
> Its suitability 5000....
This one?
http://www.suitability.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=5000
That has lots of seams, it should be well adaptable for
sizing up. One thing to keep in mind, you may have to add
girth to the upper arms (biceps), not just to the upper body
parts. That seems to be one place I always have to add a
bit.
Beverly
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Posted by betsey on July 7, 2009, 8:52 am
On Jul 7, 12:08=EF=BF=BDam, "BEI Design" <nobeidesigns...@comcast.net.inval=
show/hide quoted text
id>
wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> betsey wrote:
> > thank you everybody for your help! =EF=BF=BDi'm going to attempt
> > it....(and
> > goodness knows I have enough fabric laying around...)
> > Its suitability 5000....
> This one?http://www.suitability.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=3D5000
> That has lots of seams, it should be well adaptable for
> sizing up. One thing to keep in mind, you may have to add
> girth to the upper arms (biceps), not just to the upper body
> parts. =EF=BF=BDThat seems to be one place I always have to add a
> bit.
> Beverly
Hi Beverly--
that is what I am thinking too....but if i add to the biceps--will
that affect how it attaches to the body of the jacket? and..when you
say with it having many seams, so it should be adaptable for sizing
up....is it a simple matter of just extending the seams???
I'm going to make a mock up of it in the largest size and see where I
am at....
my other thought is that simplity has a pattern(4357) that looks to me
very similar...it's out of print, but still available. that IS in my
measurements range....would it be best to just go for that one?
betsey
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Posted by BEI Design on July 7, 2009, 3:48 pm
betsey wrote:
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> "BEI Design" wrote:
<snip>
> that is what I am thinking too....but if i add to the
> biceps--will
> that affect how it attaches to the body of the jacket?
I prefer not to fiddle with altering sleeve caps, so in
order to leave the sleeve cap the original size, while still
adding to the width at the bicep, here's what I do for a
one-piece sleeve, and your pattern does appear to be a
one-piece sleeve:
I slash the pattern vertically in half, and horizontally
right at the underarm to within 5/8" of the edges (in other
words, leaving the seam allowance uncut). Then I pivot all
four pieces, leaving the top, bottom and sides attached, and
adding about an inch to the width. Re-draw the bottom hem
(add a little length 'just in case'), and round the top a
little, and voila, the sleeve cap will still fit the
armscye, and you have the additional room for your upper
arm. This works well if all you have to add is an inch or
so.
show/hide quoted text
> and..when you say with it having many seams, so it should
> be adaptable for sizing up....is it a simple matter of
> just extending the seams???
Yes, sort of, probably. ;-) If you look at multi-sized
patterns you'll see how they add small amounts to the edges
of each piece to size up. If you add 1/4" or so to the
edges (1/8" on each side) of eight jacket pieces, you will
have added .25" x 8 = 2 inches. But be careful, when you
add to those seam edges, you also alter the way they fit
together. And you don't want the full 1/4" at some
positions, such as at the shoulder, while you might want
more, for instance at the center back, so you can move your
arms easily.
show/hide quoted text
> I'm going to make a mock up of it in the largest size and
> see where I
> am at....
> my other thought is that simplity has a pattern(4357)
> that looks to me very similar...it's out of print, but
> still available. that IS in my measurements
> range....would it be best to just go for that one?
I can't locate an image of that pattern, but that might be a
much better starting point, until/unless you are skilled at
making the pattern alterations to size the first one up.
Beverly
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