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Posted by BEI Design on July 7, 2009, 11:53 pm
betsey wrote:
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> "BEI Design" wrote:
> > betsey wrote:
<snip>
> Thank you Beverly. You very much confirmed what I was
> thinking. I'm
> a quilter, but by no means a sewist. I can make some PJ
> bottoms and halloween costumes....I've made a few jackets
> as part of halloween costumes, but this (at least in my
> mind) is a little different.
> Thank you for the advice about the back of the jacket!!
You're welcome.
One other thing, I cannot tell from the link you provided,
if the jacket does not have a center back seam, I would
*add* one (just add a 5/8" seam allowance to the fold line).
And I would curve it out a little to add that extra ease.
If it already has a CB seam, just add about 1/2" at the
level of the bottom of the armscye and taper it back in to
the neckline and waistline. This will give you some added
ease as you move your arms forward and/or up.
I also cannot tell if the Simplicity has princess seams in
the back, I hope it does. If it doesn't, it will probably
have darts. You can either go with the darts, or modify the
pattern to make princess seams in the back, to match the
front. You may find you'll want your jacket to fit tighter
at the waist, I don't know what riding gear requirements
are. My DGD's Highland dance costumes are made to very
demanding standards, you may have something similar for
equestrian wear.
Beverly
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Posted by betsey on July 8, 2009, 7:40 am
wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> betsey wrote:
> > "BEI Design" wrote:
> > > betsey wrote:
> > Thank you Beverly. =A0You very much confirmed what I was
> > thinking. =A0I'm
> > a quilter, but by no means a sewist. =A0I can make some PJ
> > bottoms and halloween costumes....I've made a few jackets
> > as part of halloween costumes, =A0but this (at least in my
> > mind) is a little different.
> > Thank you for the advice about the back of the jacket!!
> You're welcome.
> One other thing, I cannot tell from the link you provided,
> if the jacket does not have a center back seam, I would
> *add* one (just add a 5/8" seam allowance to the fold line).
> And I would curve it out a little to add that extra ease.
> If it already has a CB seam, just add about 1/2" at the
> level of the bottom of the armscye and taper it back in to
> the neckline and waistline. =A0This will give you some added
> ease as you move your arms forward and/or up.
> I also cannot tell if the Simplicity has princess seams in
> the back, I hope it does. =A0If it doesn't, it will probably
> have darts. =A0You can either go with the darts, or modify the
> pattern to make princess seams in the back, to match the
> front. =A0You may find you'll want your jacket to fit tighter
> at the waist, I don't know what riding gear requirements
> are. =A0My DGD's Highland dance costumes are made to very
> demanding standards, you may have something similar for
> equestrian wear.
> Beverly
Thank you so much. When I get the pattern I will look and see what
the back is (i have a feeling it's one piece) and will do what you
suggest.
Western show wear--for the skinny crowd, it seems to be as tight as
show/hide quoted text
you can get <g>....since i don't fall there, i'm shooting for fitted
but comfortable. i'm fairly certain i can adapt the collar and add
cuffs to the simplicity jacket and be right in line.
Betsey
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Posted by Kay Lancaster on July 8, 2009, 5:42 pm
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> that is what I am thinking too....but if i add to the biceps--will
> that affect how it attaches to the body of the jacket? and..when you
> say with it having many seams, so it should be adaptable for sizing
> up....is it a simple matter of just extending the seams???
Nope... think about what happens if you add 1/4" (for example) all around the
edge of the jacket panels. The neckline gets smaller, the concave curve of
the princess seam gets smaller, but the convex curve of the princess seam
in the side panel gets longer... and the two formerly matching seamlines
won't sew together correctly.
It's why grading up or down gets tricky for most of us who sew at home.
Or take a look at this post:
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/funny-monday-its-not-just-me/
I really think you're likely to be better off with a jacket pattern
sized for you at this stage of your sewing journey.
Kay
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Posted by Kay Lancaster on July 4, 2009, 5:42 pm
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> here is my problem...the pattern itself goes up to a bust size of 46.
> I come in at a 49. how do i begin to approach sizing up the pattern?
> or, am i better off looking for a pattern that goes up to size
That's called grading, and it can be done -- my concern is that it's already
been graded up from the middle of the size range, and once you get to the ends
of the range you start running into distortions of the pattern by grading.
The patternmakers I know tend to prefer to only grade a pattern up or down
by a couple of sizes -- so they'll make the pattern in size C, then have
it graded down to size A and B and up to D and E. Putting it to an
F increases the chances that you'll get the shoulder seams off the shoulder
(causing problems with arm mobility), neckline too big, etc, so they'll make a
new pattern at size H and grade it down to F and G and up to I and J.
That's actually a fairly simple looking pattern, judging by what I saw on the
patternreview site. If you want to try your hand at grading, and especially
if you need a bigger cup size than a B, it might work ok -- princess seams are
the easiest to adjust for cup size (though I prefer to adjust a shoulder
princess rather than a side princess). On the other hand, if you've got
a jacket pattern that fits ok, or can spot one that would have you in the
middle of the range, it might be easier to use that.
Me, because I'm congenitally lazy, I'd probably just drape you and make a
custom pattern and skip all the fussing with a commercial pattern.
As for commercial patterns that might work, consider restyling Butterick
5336 (which has the advantage of extra room in the back sleeve cap,
similar to that provided for jockey silks), or Jalie 2212.
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> > betsey wrote:
<snip>
> Thank you Beverly. You very much confirmed what I was
> thinking. I'm
> a quilter, but by no means a sewist. I can make some PJ
> bottoms and halloween costumes....I've made a few jackets
> as part of halloween costumes, but this (at least in my
> mind) is a little different.
> Thank you for the advice about the back of the jacket!!